Hi John W
Thank's again , you helped me a lot , this will be my next project ....
Best regards
Gerard Mihel
Hi John W
Thank's again , you helped me a lot , this will be my next project ....
Best regards
Gerard Mihel
John,Originally Posted by John W
I spoke to WAR audio over here who are closely affiliated with Axon and they advise they are better than Solen capacitors (but made by Solen). I have used them previously and based on my recent experience would have to agree.
Ian
Here is an interesting Modification.
It has been documented that the mid cone high pass passive filter interacts with the woofer box tuning combination to cause some unwanted gain at and below 100 hz.
I was recently testing full passive mod for my 4345 clones and wanted to assess a new amplifier, the Passlabs X250.5 without resorting to biamping.
I discussed this with Kent English of Passlabs and Kent suggested placing a parrellel resister directly shunted across the 2245 woofer.
Following some experimentation of different values I found 100R and up to 150R made a significant improvement to the system balance..
This is such a simple modification that it is just too good to pass up and I suggest even if you are biamping to give it a try.
Special thanks to Kent for this idea.
Ian
Is there anyone in the UK that has built a 4345 ? It would be great to chat to you about the problems I,m having.
Can any one help me with a swatch of this baffle blue ?. If someone could slap some on a piece of card and pop it in the post to me it would sure make things easier .
regards ,Richard
The blue color is RAL 5007. This is a universal standard, and your local paint shop should have no problems supplying you with some of this stuff. If you want the original JBL look you need to use a spatter gun. It's probably best to get this job done by a professional.
What building problems do you have?
Hello John W . ( or Anyone can help )
I bought the components to make a similar filter ( takes time to get in Morocco ! ) .
Just the cable to speakers are not clear to me .
1- On the last picture from "page 8 ( 08-27-2006 ) 12:06pm " view for the cabinet , we can see 3 cables going into the filter ?
Binding post + 3 speakers make 4 cables ?
2. On the layout ( see attached ) :
a- it seems cables named 2 is connected to R and R ?
b- there should be 4 cables and I get only 3 ( one is missing ? )
c- I do not clearly understand the "3" to the third tab of L pad ( Normally the 2 speakers wire goes to Lpad and 2 from L pad goes back to spekaer itself ) .
3. I have seen by passed on 5.6 and 2 uf ( what are the values you choose ) .
Again I appologize for the request but I am not technical and It is really unclear to me .
Regards
Gerard
Hopefully I can answer these:
1. In this picture it looks like the input wires from the lower pair of binding posts to the 2245 woofers aren’t hooked up. These crossovers are bi-amp only, so the 2245s are wired directly and don’t show up in the layout. Also, just to make things a little neater I bundled 4 wires into the mesh sleeve for the trip to the top of the cabinet. So in the picture one “cable” is really for the 2425 and 2405
2a) There should be two wires. One from “R” on the 2425 section to tab 1 on the L-pad and then to the red binding post on the driver, and one from the “R” on the 2405 section also to tab 1 on the other lpad and on to the red binding post on that driver.
2b) 4 wires are bundled together in the sleeve.
2c) Two separate wires again, each to tab 3 on their separate L-pad. Individual wires from tab 2 of the L-pads hook up to the black post on their matching drivers.
3. In this drawing the bypass caps are .01uf
Does that clear it up?
You guys are absolutely amazing. I must have a pair of those. Something tells me they arent cheap money at all -- even in fixer upper condition. Are they >>> L300? what did they list for back when?
thanks
Clean examples tend to sell in the $5K range... and they are very rare. You'll see 10 pairs of 4350s before you see a pair of 4345s. Your best bet would be to DIY with the info posted here or ask Rick Riessen very nicely, he may build you a pair. He tends to build 4350s, but I'd hold out for a pair of 4345s. The 4350s look awfully badass, but the 4345 is a bit more refined.
Here is an example of some of Rick's outstanding work. http://audioheritage.csdco.com/vbull...ad.php?t=12736
Widget
John W
Thank you for your answers ! Clear to me .
How can I proove my gratefulness ?
May be pay you a beer in casablanca ?
Gerard
Hello Again John W .
I am soldering the parts ....
I forgot ....
What shall I do with the 20 watts resistor marked "1" and "2". ( the one near 0.27 mh ) .
Where goes those 1 and 2.
Thank's again
Gerard
I just finish my crossover last week .
it took some time to get the parts down in Morocco and make a box etc ...
Here is a picture of it .
My first thanks goes to John W who help me so much to realize a copy of his Crossover.
I also would like to share my impressions .
1. The Xover is extraordinary neutral and detailed .
At first time you do not look impressed but after listening I was able to find that
a- I did not need to listen at high level as I used to do before
b- The set up was quiet easy and the overall sound did not change
at different level .
c- the Xover is very detailed
d- The bass does not look like a Bass reflex , it's so clean even going down.
e- Treble is fine , detailed and full of Harmonics
f-After testing some hard records ( for me ) Davis crosby ( if I could only ...) for the bass , Diana Krall ( the look of love ) for the overall of the cd where bass and treble are different on most systems , I must admit the jbl are now at a very high level and even works better than my 250 Ti clones ( looks there is a competition between the 2 systems in my house !!!) .
Once again thanks to all forum members , I am not technical and I was only able to succed with the forum help .
Gerard
Hi Gerard,
Very Nice !
I had no idea you were building a 4345 till this thread just popped up ( I guess I've been living on the moon )
Congratulations !
<. cheers
Hey, looks good. Congratulations on getting these together!
I was admiring your work, and something jumped out that you may want to look at. Check out where the red 9v battery wire connects at the arrow here, it looks from the picture that it should be on the other side of the resistor.
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