Robh3606:
Yeah, the 815R ("right-side") is the one from the tent. I couldn't pass it up at $330.XX. I would love to pair it up, but getting a "left-side" in like condition would be next to impossible. Not to mention my ass would be out on the street if one would show up on the front porch.
This message comes from JBL Dog
OK, The fisheye is not too bad so I applied another heavy coat of sanding sealer at 40psi. Then I scuffed sand with 360 garnet cabinet paper. Here's the pic.
Here's the secret sauce. It has to be applied and taken off in 1-2 hours, otherwise you must wait 48 hours.
Now a lot of you are cringing but this is the stuff experts use to create depth to a finish....but more importantly it blends and hides imperfections. 98% of what you put on is wiped off. Think of this as underlayment on the face of a model....that hides blemishes and imperfections. It highlights the grains also. I will slowly remove (After 1-2 hours) with cheese cloth and then with a very fine 2" paint brush that I use to finesse the material wher I need it. Again it is just like a brush using blush on the models face. YOU MUST GO WITH THE GRAIN AND YOU MUST REMOVE WITHIN 1 - 2 HOURS OF APPLYING. Here's a pic of it applied. I'll take another after it's removed.
Now a lot of you are cringing but this is the stuff experts use to create depth to a finish....but more importantly it blends and hides imperfections. 98% of what you put on is wiped off. Think of this as underlayment on the face of a model....that hides blemishes and imperfections. It highlights the grains also. I will slowly remove (After 1-2 hours) with cheese cloth and then with a very fine 2" paint brush that I use to finesse the material where I need it. Again it is just like a brush using blush on the models face. YOU MUST GO WITH THE GRAIN AND YOU MUST REMOVE WITHIN 1 - 2 HOURS OF APPLYING. Here's a pic of it applied. I'll take another after it's removed.
Last edited by Audiobeer; 10-09-2003 at 08:32 PM.
Here's a pic of 1 of 3 final seal coats before applying the topcoats. Between each layer there will be a bit of manipulation of the lag bolt areas which is allready on it's way to looking like a knot or irregular grain pattern. This step was only 2 hours!
Last edited by Audiobeer; 10-09-2003 at 08:04 PM.
I have to lighten up the knots or darken the finish.....JBL DOG??? Whatcha want?
BEE-YOU-TEE-FULL!!
This message comes from JBL Dog
Audiobeer, that is a phenomenal transformation. Remarkable. The treatment of the lag-bolt holes is brilliant!
Wow.
bo
"Indeed, not!!"
Truely a labor of love and what an incredible job you're doing. I'm impressed with your skill and dedication to "do it right".
While not JBL, here is a pic of some walnut cabinets I redid. Just sanded all the way to 1000 grit paper and sprayed with DEFT.
Ya know, we have enough talent right here to start our own speaker company! The Heritage Speaker Company!
Audiobeer you are an artist!
Those 901s look better than the factorys finish!
Almost There! Here's an attempt to use a dry powder stain mixed w/water to the shade of the cabinet. I apply that right in the middle of the lag bolt holes. This pic is after the stain drys....about 1 minute. Looks terrible....BUT, the second pic is of the sanding sealer over the top bringing out the true color of the stain. Now I'll lay one more coat of that Nu-glase over the top of that and that will complete the cover up portion.
Now here's the pic with the sealer over it!
lag bots? what lag bolts? I don't see no lag bolts? you must have mistaken these for some other cabinets.
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