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Thread: Building cabs for 2242's

  1. #1
    Senior Member JuniorJBL's Avatar
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    Building cabs for 2242's

    Hi All

    I am going to start building my cabs for my 2242's and would like some input.

    A starting size and design for me would be (internal size):

    Any input would be helpful
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    Last edited by JuniorJBL; 05-15-2005 at 10:52 AM. Reason: More text

  2. #2
    Senior Member JuniorJBL's Avatar
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    Type of wood

    I would also like to keep these cabs as light as possible.
    Suggestions?
    Shane

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    Senior Member spkrman57's Avatar
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  4. #4
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    I wouldn't get real crazy. I'd just build them similar to a 4645C.

    *****

    I think spkrman57 has these now.

    These are 1.25:1.00:0.80 style.
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    Senior Member spkrman57's Avatar
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    Yes I do!

    And it is hard to believe how light they are considering the size and the substantial bracing inside.

    Well built cabinets for sure!

    Ron

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by spkrman57
    And it is hard to believe how light they are considering the size and the substantial bracing inside.
    Plywood as opposed to MDF.
    The original owner wanted them light for mobile purposes.
    Mine were MDF and heavy as hell.

  7. #7
    Senior Member JuniorJBL's Avatar
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    I would prefer...

    I curently have about a 10 cu ft cab for my first 2242 and it really gets things moving. It is just the wrong size for my space of were to put them. I will have a 80" screen this week and will be puting them on each side. I was wanting to make a smooth finnish box to do a piano black finnish on them. I thought that a taller cab would look better in this application.

    There are pics of the HT and were the 2242's will go here:
    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...5&page=2&pp=15

    Would plywood would require more bracing than MDF? (Birch or Oak ply)

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    I'd use MDF for a totally static installation. Mount the 2242 closer to one end if only so you can play around with boundary reinforcement. Make the enclosure so it can be turned "woofer up" or "woofer down" depending on room response.

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    senile member R Beardsley's Avatar
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    I was wanting to make a smooth finnish box to do a piano black finnish on them.

    Besides being better acoustically, MDF is far better for a smooth black finish. MDF is dynamite for paint.
    R Beardsley (BEAR)

  10. #10
    Senior Member JuniorJBL's Avatar
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    Duhh!

    Quote Originally Posted by R Beardsley
    Besides being better acoustically, MDF is far better for a smooth black finish. MDF is dynamite for paint.
    You are right

    I did realize what I had said after my post. I just dread hefting MDF around by myself.
    Shane

  11. #11
    senile member R Beardsley's Avatar
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    The edges suck up paint like crazy, so I block sand smooth, then brush some thin epoxy (like West system). If you make sure there isn't any excess gobbed on, you will never tell there are edges overlapped. This is a BIG SECRET........DON'T TELL ANYONE ELSE HERE!!!
    R Beardsley (BEAR)

  12. #12
    Senior Member JuniorJBL's Avatar
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    Excellent!!

    Thanks Bear!

  13. #13
    Senior Member JuniorJBL's Avatar
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    New Size

    I came up with what looks to be a better design.
    The new size is:
    30 hX30 wX25d
    These are outside dimensions. It is about 11.2 cu ft this should compensate for bracing and driver displacement and be a more versatile design. I will post pics as the job goes on.
    Shane
    Last edited by JuniorJBL; 05-15-2005 at 06:14 PM. Reason: add

  14. #14
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    10 cu ft tuned to 25 Hz

    two 6" diameter ports x 17.25" ducts

  15. #15
    Senior Member JuniorJBL's Avatar
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    Thanks

    Thanks Giskard

    Did you look at the new dimenstions?
    Shane

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