JBL M2 - DIY clone

[sebackman]

-Agree with POS and Widget. When starting new there is really no competition between the vintage stuff and the newer 2216 and alike. And no meaningful price difference either compared to the overall build cost.

For pure LF (<200Hz) you can absolutely use vintage units, like a 2235, but to meet a driver/horn (>700Hz) you either need to go 3-way or use a modern woofer like 2216. I run 2216Nd-1 ported to 27Hz in my DSP 4367M clones and they are just awesome.

If you use subs there are a few more alternatives.

Have a nice weekend

//Robert

[turnitdown]

One obvious advantage is that it is new, so you don't have to worry about bad surrounds (ever again), wrongly installed kits, etc.Compared to a 2235 it is objectively better on excursion (very silent), will have less intermodulation (meaning it will be much better at playing both LF and MF at the same time), and is less subject to power compression thanks to its TCR VC.Looking at the different white papers, the compression curve of a 4367 appears quite similar to that of a 4435 equipped with *two* 2234. This is quite a feat although it is maybe not a fair comparison given these measurements have been taken decades apart, so conditions might vary...One thing to consider though is its rising response, which requires a specific passive network or active EQ to handle. The "-1" variant is easier to deal with in this regard.It is clearly not a drop-in replacement for any of the vintage drivers, which were meant to be flat out of the box (in the box )

Thank you - informative...particularly regarding power compression. I think I experience that with my LE14H-1-based system when played loud, or the room is all wrong. Don't know.