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Thread: Adcom ACE-515 causing amp failures?

  1. #16
    Senior Member DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Hi Ian,

    There's nobody near me, least not that I'm acquainted with. Speaker wiring issue.. Should I not be using banana connectors? I always told myself I'd go to spade connectors when I got my system locked in, as in no more changes. Although now that you mention it, when I was using the Ashly electronic crossovers I tended to have the high frequency right side amp boosted just a bit more to even out the stereo image. Either my right ear doesn't hear so good or there was an issue with balance. But nobody else has complained about the stereo image and it's worth noting that with the BX63A in place over the Ashly I haven't had to move the balance at all. However, probably also worth noting that even with the Ashly I saw the clip lights illuminate evenly, like the right side wasn't the only side popping on, it was left or right just as if the balance was perfected. Adcom GFA-555II's were in place longer overall than any amplifier in the system, yet they haven't failed me. Seems to me just about every time I get comfortable with a different amp, it makes pudding in it's trousers and the Adcoms have to come back out of hibernation.

    I have no idea about the power quality, I'm told my area is pretty good. I only bought a conditioner because I believed the mumbo-jumbo advertising on the box. Without it, I haven't noticed any detriment in sound quality but have noticed I can jam louder before clipping. Lesson learned. However, I notice sometimes the light in the room will wince when the furnace or A/C kicks on. I feel that's normal, but perhaps hurts the amplifiers? My fridge is probably from the late 90's or early 2000's. My whole house (shit stack) has been described as, "An old people's house minus the old people smell."

    In the immediate area, there's no industry. But if you venture out a few miles there are some independent shops doing who knows what. I'd say all the houses near me have A/C just as I do. I probably run mine more than most, I'm an air-conditioned gypsy.

  2. #17
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    Unless you're running your amps with a lot of input attenuation if you're seeing the peak LEDs light up on an Ashly crossover in a home stereo you may just need to spring for bigger, more efficient speakers. While I've been able to do that on occasion with live stage monitor systems running at levels that could cause hearing damage it's not something I'd expect in a system running in my living room. Are you running this system on a standard home 115 VAC 15 amp outlet? Probably time to heavy up that electrical service to a dedicated 20 amp with 10 ga wire or split it up across two circuits.
    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    ... However, probably also worth noting that even with the Ashly I saw the clip lights illuminate evenly, like the right side wasn't the only side popping on, it was left or right just as if the balance was perfected. ...

  3. #18
    Senior Member DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    You know, I think come spring time I'll see about two separate outlets on 20A breakers. I fear that might be pretty invasive given my basement is finished under where the stereo rig lives. At 101dB efficient, the mains couldn't get much better. But, the 2245H's are only 95dB efficient, so perhaps there is a more efficient 18" driver out there. That is the hold-up. However, the 2245H is both a sonic and appearance match for the system.

  4. #19
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    Before you start throwing more money at your audio system or house power system, it is much cheaper and will net better results if you thoroughly research possible problems, gather data on the condition of your house and audio system and do a methodical analysis. Try to do tests to confirm your conclusions, then spend money. It's a PITA but it most probably will be faster and there is no surer way to find and correct the problem.

  5. #20
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, the 2245H's are only 95dB efficient, so perhaps there is a more efficient 18" driver out there. That is the hold-up. However, the 2245H is both a sonic and appearance match for the system.
    Do you know that any other 18-inch subs are more efficient? That seems like a pretty high rating to me, for a subwoofer.
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmc8180 View Post
    Before you start throwing more money at your audio system or house power system, it is much cheaper and will net better results if you thoroughly research possible problems, gather data on the condition of your house and audio system and do a methodical analysis. Try to do tests to confirm your conclusions, then spend money. It's a PITA but it most probably will be faster and there is no surer way to find and correct the problem.
    Agreed

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Hi Ian,

    My whole house (shit stack) has been described as, "An old people's house minus the old people smell."
    Quote of the week.

    I think we have a lot in common…Lol.

  8. #23
    Moderator hjames's Avatar
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    Having heard that system on 2 different occasions, I would be hesitant to plan any changes to that system, or swap any of the drivers for anything else.
    I never thought Jim's system lacked in power the way it reproduced bass before.
    Then again, if you need 2 higher power amps, I'd recommend you look into sorting your household electrical system instead.


    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    You know, I think come spring time I'll see about two separate outlets on 20A breakers.
    I fear that might be pretty invasive given my basement is finished under where the stereo rig lives.
    At 101dB efficient, the mains couldn't get much better. But, the 2245H's are only 95dB efficient, so perhaps there is a more efficient 18" driver out there.
    That is the hold-up. However, the 2245H is both a sonic and appearance match for the system.
    2ch: WiiM Pro; Topping E30 II DAC; Oppo, Acurus RL-11, Acurus A200, JBL Dynamics Project - Offline: L212-TwinStack, VonSchweikert VR-4
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  9. #24
    Administrator Robh3606's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    You know, I think come spring time I'll see about two separate outlets on 20A breakers. I fear that might be pretty invasive given my basement is finished under where the stereo rig lives. At 101dB efficient, the mains couldn't get much better. But, the 2245H's are only 95dB efficient, so perhaps there is a more efficient 18" driver out there. That is the hold-up. However, the 2245H is both a sonic and appearance match for the system.
    You seem to be missing something a pair is 101db look up mutual coupling. You should be in mono below 80Hz.

    Rob
    "I could be arguing in my spare time"

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    Hi Rob,

    I don’t think Derek will twig to your post

    What Rob is alluding to is that when woofers are placed close together they can observe mutual coupling. This increases the effective efficiency. See link below

    https://blogs.qsc.com/live-sound/wha...coupling-mean/

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjames View Post
    Having heard that system on 2 different occasions, I would be hesitant to plan any changes to that system, or swap any of the drivers for anything else.
    I never thought Jim's system lacked in power the way it reproduced bass before.
    Then again, if you need 2 higher power amps, I'd recommend you look into sorting your household electrical system instead.

    Robot “Danger Will Robinson. Danger”.

  12. #27
    Senior Member RMC's Avatar
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    RE post 20

    Eargle's Loudspeaker Handbook 2nd ed., conversion table from efficiency (%) to sensitivity (db 1w 1 m) used here.

    2245H 2.1 % = 95 db (same as spec), more hi-fi style VLF driver, linear response, while some others are SR style

    2269H 1.2% = 93 db, but it has other assets such as huge input power capability and large cone travel ability

    2241H 2.9% = 97 db (rated 98 db by JBL)

    2242H 4% = 98 db (rated 99 db by JBL, but they used 100-1000hz range for that test)

    Haven't shown 2240H since its been replaced twice by 2241 then 2242, somewhat outdated, but the numbers would be similar.

    The AES standard to test woofers is usually 50-500hz, however manufacturers are free to use the decade of their choice, according to Eargle. The previous range used by JBL for such woofer measurements was 100-500hz.

    Now go figure why the E-155 (plus the E-140 for BASS guitar) were measured at 500-2500hz (midrange territory) and the 2242 also higher than usual. Obviously the Marketing dept. won those discussions, in order to show higher numbers...

    Richard
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  13. #28
    Senior Member DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Mackenzie View Post
    Quote of the week.

    I think we have a lot in common…Lol.


    Quote Originally Posted by hjames View Post
    Having heard that system on 2 different occasions, I would be hesitant to plan any changes to that system, or swap any of the drivers for anything else.
    I never thought Jim's system lacked in power the way it reproduced bass before.
    Then again, if you need 2 higher power amps, I'd recommend you look into sorting your household electrical system instead.
    But did you listen loud enough to blow you and your chair into the wall? Thinking I need seat belts in there.

    Quote Originally Posted by RMC View Post
    RE post 20

    Eargle's Loudspeaker Handbook 2nd ed., conversion table from efficiency (%) to sensitivity (db 1w 1 m) used here.

    2245H 2.1 % = 95 db (same as spec), more hi-fi style VLF driver, linear response, while some others are SR style

    2269H 1.2% = 93 db, but it has other assets such as huge input power capability and large cone travel ability

    2241H 2.9% = 97 db (rated 98 db by JBL)

    2242H 4% = 98 db (rated 99 db by JBL, but they used 100-1000hz range for that test)

    Haven't shown 2240H since its been replaced twice by 2241 then 2242, somewhat outdated, but the numbers would be similar.

    The AES standard to test woofers is usually 50-500hz, however manufacturers are free to use the decade of their choice, according to Eargle. The previous range used by JBL for such woofer measurements was 100-500hz.

    Now go figure why the E-155 (plus the E-140 for BASS guitar) were measured at 500-2500hz (midrange territory) and the 2242 also higher than usual. Obviously the Marketing dept. won those discussions, in order to show higher numbers...

    Richard
    Love all the responses and info. Lots of things to digest. No idea if 95dB is a good number, I just thought its a little low given the sensitivity of the mains. Although looking at the info RMC provided, changing the woofer might not net me anything. And yes, testing before opening the wallet is ideal. How does one test the wires in their system, voltage drop? Semi familiar with that given I tinker on cars.

  14. #29
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    How about using more 2245’s

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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post




    How does one test the wires in their system, voltage drop? Semi familiar with that given I tinker on cars.
    Perhaps it's just me, but I'm a bit confused. I think first you should clearly define for yourself and others what your problem(s) are - I've seen several possibilities ... several blown right amp channels, lower than desired VLF output ... utility / home power problems perhaps? Maybe all? Define the problem first, you will get advice more relative to finding and fixing the problem.

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