Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst ... 23456 ... LastLast
Results 46 to 60 of 93

Thread: JBL 43xx Charged Coupled Network Boards

  1. #46
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    7,939

    Exclamation

    I’ve just done a cart list for the bi amp only change coupled 4345 final schematic.

    Pcb parts only
    On my list l selected a Jantzen laminate core 1.8mh. All other inductors air core
    All Solen capacitors
    Dayton audio grade resisters

    The total parts cost was US$309.64 or a pair of networks excluding shipping.

    Most forum members with these systems have already built or had built by Giskard charge coupled networks.

    If you are new to all this l would look at installing the network internally to save a heap on money and space taken up by an external network. An external network won’t make it sound any better. Wiring faults are more likely with external connectors and cables. The pcb should fit on the inside of rear access panel. An external crossover will need a reasonable sized enclosure. Most people who have done this either put them atop the loudspeaker system or beside it. Will that fit the room decor or WAF is something to consider.

    Given these particular pcbs add almost 100% to the overall cost and if located internally (not mens eye candy) a conventional plywood crossover assembly would be a significant cost saving.

  2. #47
    Member VinylGroove's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    The West
    Posts
    69
    I've got all of my parts to build a full passive crossover setup now, but doing this internally with just the biamp board would allow me to complete it next week on the holiday break. (I can always move to external later)

    To any who have done this are there lessons learned on where the best location to install the PCB inside the box is?
    My gut reaction would be to have an edge of the PCB against the floor of the speaker box, but maybe that would be bad for vibration and it would be better "floating" on the standoff mounts.

    Here are a couple of standoff options:
    https://www.amazon.com/BCQLI-Console.../dp/B07H2BGGSF
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MSYHW9M/

  3. #48
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    7,939

    Lightbulb

    Your on the right track.

    Those stand offs look fine.

    Provided the parts are securely mounted on the pcb you don’t have to worry about vibrations. The floor of the enclosure will be fine and probably the easiest location in my experience. You could just sit it in there for now.

    Tips.

    Disconnect the wires in the binding posts marked internal and connect your crossover pcb via new cables to the internal binding posts.

    Edit . Your system is the 4343. So you will need to search around for pics of the 4343 crossover network.

    There are wires from the stock crossover to the L pads and return wires from the L pads as l recall. What you need to do is determine the correct wires for the L pad tabs (1), (2), (3). Draw out the existing wiring on a sheet of paper and label all the wires. Then refer to your pcb instructions. Take it step by step with a glass of red wine and under no circumstances get interrupted.

    I suggest you take a number of pics on your Smart phone before dis assembly of the stock crossover. It will save your marriage by averting a major meltdown if you become confused, agitated and loose your shit! Lol.

    Edit. Because the internal L pads for the MID and the HF are 16 ohms they won’t be compatible with this pcb. So you will need to wire up you’re 8ohm L pads. What l suggest you do for now is put the Lpads through the ports on long enough cables so you can adjust then from outside. Replacing the existing L pads is a bit involved.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  4. #49
    Member VinylGroove's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    The West
    Posts
    69
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Mackenzie View Post
    Your on the right track.

    Those stand offs look fine.

    Provided the parts are securely mounted on the pcb you don’t have to worry about vibrations. The floor of the enclosure will be fine and probably the easiest location in my experience. You could just sit it in there for now.

    Tips.

    Disconnect the wires in the binding posts marked internal and connect your crossover pcb via new cables to the internal binding posts.

    See my pictorial link l posted earlier for a guide to how the L pads are wired to the stock pcb.

    There are wires from the stock crossover to the L pads and return wires from the L pads as l recall. What you need to do is determine the correct wires for the L pad tabs (1), (2), (3). Draw out the existing wiring on a sheet of paper and label all the wires. Then refer to your pcb instructions. Take it step by step with a glass of red wine and under no circumstances get interrupted.

    I suggest you take a number of pics on your Smart phone before dis assembly of the stock crossover. It will save your marriage by averting a major meltdown if you become confused, agitated and loose your shit! Lol.
    Ah crap, I forgot about the Lpads entirely. Can the new replacement Lpads line up on the front baffle with the same coin slot knobs for OEM JBL appearance?

    https://www.parts-express.com/L-Pad-...-8-Ohm-260-252
    https://www.parts-express.com/L-Pad-...16-Ohm-260-254

  5. #50
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    7,939
    I don’t know. You will have to measure it out.

    If the internal L pads are the same power rating it should be okay.

    However, l don’t recall how to remove the L pad board? I suggest you take some internal pics of the L pads.

    These pics show the way.

    There are plenty of people with 4343 so if you get stuck they might chime in.

    Open a new thread and call it 4343 upgrade help needed.
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  6. #51
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Pasadena, CA
    Posts
    39
    Quote Originally Posted by VinylGroove View Post
    Ah crap, I forgot about the Lpads entirely. Can the new replacement Lpads line up on the front baffle with the same coin slot knobs for OEM JBL appearance?

    https://www.parts-express.com/L-Pad-...-8-Ohm-260-252
    https://www.parts-express.com/L-Pad-...16-Ohm-260-254
    I replaced the L-pads in my 4344s before I went to charge-coupled networks in an external enclosure. It is possible to get the OEM look, flush with the front baffle, but it requires the new L-pads with the 1" shaft (the 3/8" are too short), and custom spacers - the existing ones on the back side of the L-pad shaft will be too short with the 1" shaft. I had to get new standoffs and cut them down to a custom size, but it wasn't hard to figure out when measuring the shaft of the original L-pad and taking the difference between that and the 1" shaft. If I had the dimensions for you, I'd pull them up, but it's been so long that I don't think I have a record of what exactly the new spacer length was. If I find it, I'll let you know.

    I have some other thoughts about mounting internally, too, which I will come back with later (hard to keep up with the forums with all the end of the year work madness going on). I also have a customer who is almost done with his build who is mounting his boards internally (4345s, so not exactly the same as yours), but he'll be sending pictures, etc., and possibly posting here, so his build might give you some ideas/inspiration. In general, though, I agree that sitting it on the floor of the speaker enclosure - as long as it isn't vibrating against any hard surfaces - would likely be just fine.
    https://www.echomountainaudio.com
    Charge-Coupled Crossover PCBs

  7. #52
    Member VinylGroove's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    The West
    Posts
    69
    Looks like I'd have to remove the foilcal on the front to get to the screws.

    Maybe for this first iteration of crossover upgrade I'll keep the stock Lpads as they are, install the biamp board internally, upgrade binding posts and see how that goes.
    Attached Images Attached Images     

  8. #53
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    7,939
    Just to get it going put the new L pads on long cables so you can pull use L pads in and out of the ports. You probably won’t have time to mess around with the stock L pads.

    In hindsight if the stock 16 ohm L pads and the stock 4343 crossover schematic was used neither of you would have had to deal with this or any of the problems you’ve had to date.

    That’s the lesson that needs to be learnt here.

  9. #54
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    7,939
    Quote Originally Posted by VinylGroove View Post
    Looks like I'd have to remove the foilcal on the front to get to the screws.

    Maybe for this first iteration of crossover upgrade I'll keep the stock Lpads as they are, install the biamp board internally, upgrade binding posts and see how that goes.
    That’s a bummer.

    What l would do is leave it for now.

    Try it as l posted with you new L pads on long cables.

    Then talk to Matt or me about a revision of the parts so you can use the existing 16 ohm L pads on the MID and HF. It’s just hard work otherwise and l would risk peeling off the foilcal.

  10. #55
    Member VinylGroove's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    The West
    Posts
    69
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Mackenzie View Post
    Just to get it going put the new L pads on long cables so you can pull use L pads in and out of the ports. You probably won’t have time to mess around with the stock L pads.
    That's not a bad idea running them out the bass ports.

    I would also need the 9V battery holder mounted on the back of the speaker since I don't want it to leak inside or be inconvenient to change in the future. I think I'll run the 9v wire through the factory internal/external crossover switch hole.

    Another idea is I could enlarge that hole and also run Lpad wires out of it to a small board mounted on the back of the speaker and not have to modify the front Lpads at all. Kind of a hodge podge but it would work and keep the stock front appearance.

    (Note the mid L-pad is 16ohm on the replacements I have)
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  11. #56
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    7,939
    That’s an interesting thought.

    If you use a good quality lithium 9v battery it should be fine.

    If can change the two 68R resisters in the mid filter to 47R your internal mid L pads will work with the attenuation you need normally.

    I’m having a look at your horn filter

  12. #57
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    7,939
    I don’t know what parts values Matt finally ask you to put in the HF filter.

    But wire up your internal 16 ohm HF L pad we send me via email details of the parts you have for that filter and l will advise on any changes if necessary.

    It can be sorted out. Okay

  13. #58
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Pasadena, CA
    Posts
    39
    Quote Originally Posted by VinylGroove View Post
    That's not a bad idea running them out the bass ports.

    I would also need the 9V battery holder mounted on the back of the speaker since I don't want it to leak inside or be inconvenient to change in the future. I think I'll run the 9v wire through the factory internal/external crossover switch hole.

    Another idea is I could enlarge that hole and also run Lpad wires out of it to a small board mounted on the back of the speaker and not have to modify the front Lpads at all. Kind of a hodge podge but it would work and keep the stock front appearance.

    (Note the mid L-pad is 16ohm on the replacements I have)
    I support this configuration... on the condition that you use that exact battery. LOL!
    https://www.echomountainaudio.com
    Charge-Coupled Crossover PCBs

  14. #59
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Pasadena, CA
    Posts
    39
    Quote Originally Posted by VinylGroove View Post
    That's not a bad idea running them out the bass ports.

    I would also need the 9V battery holder mounted on the back of the speaker since I don't want it to leak inside or be inconvenient to change in the future. I think I'll run the 9v wire through the factory internal/external crossover switch hole.

    Another idea is I could enlarge that hole and also run Lpad wires out of it to a small board mounted on the back of the speaker and not have to modify the front Lpads at all. Kind of a hodge podge but it would work and keep the stock front appearance.

    (Note the mid L-pad is 16ohm on the replacements I have)
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Mackenzie View Post
    I don’t know what parts values Matt finally ask you to put in the HF filter.

    But wire up your internal 16 ohm HF L pad we send me via email details of the parts you have for that filter and l will advise on any changes if necessary.

    It can be sorted out. Okay
    Ian - VinylGroove has new 16 ohm L-pads for the MF section, and the filter is tuned for that (you and I looked at this - it's those same values - and thanks again for catching that mistake and verifying my changes). It's the HF filter that currently uses an 8 ohm L-pad instead of the stock 16 ohm. The UHF uses 8 ohm L-pads in both cases.

    If he goes with his external mounting idea, he is good with the new L-pads that he has on hand. He and I have been in close communication via email.
    https://www.echomountainaudio.com
    Charge-Coupled Crossover PCBs

  15. #60
    Member VinylGroove's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    The West
    Posts
    69
    A small surface mount "project box" like this could easily be mounted to the back of the speaker to house the Lpads

    https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industrie...dp/B005T7R82W/
    https://www.amazon.com/Otdorpatio-Ju...dp/B08P55BZDH/
    Attached Images Attached Images  

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. New 3145 Charged-Coupled Crossover for 4345.
    By Ricpan in forum Lansing Product DIY Forum
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-06-2022, 01:58 PM
  2. For the coupled charged lovers!!
    By Challenger604 in forum Lansing Product General Information
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-05-2018, 07:55 AM
  3. Symmetrical charged coupled crossovers
    By Orgi1 in forum Lansing Product DIY Forum
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 11-30-2015, 08:51 AM
  4. L300 resistor choice for charged coupled network.
    By warpig in forum Lansing Product DIY Forum
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 09-13-2011, 05:37 AM
  5. 4430/4435 Charged Coupled
    By jblbgw_man in forum Lansing Product DIY Forum
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 08-26-2008, 01:03 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •