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Thread: New Here! I need help with a (DIY?) LPF or X-OVER for my E155-8 (x2) *CRIT MY SETUP*

  1. #1
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    Lightbulb New Here! I need help with a (DIY?) LPF or X-OVER for my E155-8 (x2) *CRIT MY SETUP*

    I'm happy to have found this forum when I did and I hope I can be a valuable member someday!

    So essentially (this may be a long writeup) I recently came into posession of a large lot of JBL PRO drivers cabinets and other things...(see list below)
    - 2404H x 2
    - 2440 x 2
    - 2350 x 2
    - E155-8 x2
    - 2226H x3
    - 3105 x2
    - 2206H x2
    - 2 Horns mounted in cabinets attached to the 2440s that are marked "122323"
    (I also have x3 UREI 811Cs that I can add to this list from a previous purchase)

    Right now I am not using all of the components obviously. I am not even really sure there is a system short of a live concert setup that could assimilate all of this gear correctly.
    I believe all of the cabinets are hand made. There are no x-overs in any of the cabinets except the 3105s in the 2404H cabinets.

    I added a sketch up that I did detailing the current iteration of my setup...my reason for posting here is that, with this iteration I need to LPF or x-over the E 155-8s obviously.
    But I need recommendations from you guys as to what would be the best bet for my goal of 500hz.

    Ideally I want 20-800hz adjustable. I want to build it myself but I would need a tip about which transducer/inductor/potentiometer values to get.

    *I ABSOLUTELY DO NOT WANT MINIDSP* I want to go all analogue and old school here. No software no big spending. I'd like to go old school and learn by making mistakes.

    If anyone here believes that this set up is poor and I should go with a different combination of the components that I own...PLEASE let it be known!

    What combinations would you use? What would you use to power this set up? I would like varying ideas and opinions from all of you would be vintage audio DIY gods and goddesses!

    I recognize the significance and importance of the gear I have here. Its historical value and value to me personally are great. I really want to hear it at its best and use it to its fullest potential. I would die if it went to waste.

    Please help! SOS

    Thanks in advance ladies and gents!


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    EDIT: What is the combined value of all of my gear if I were to try to sell it on the open market? Just curious to know how what I paid stacks up against what the value is.

    Also, if it isn't obvious from the picture (which is shit quality for some reason) the system is BIAMPED. The preamp if anyone cares is an ADCOM GFP-555II

  2. #2
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    My drive by critique of your pan.

    Make it a four way tai-amped system with the 18" for lows crossed into the 12" as mid bass at about 200 hz. Use the 2350 ( if you have to, its a really bad horn for hifi listening in small rooms ) and 2440 for highs crossed at 800 - 1000 hz and bring the super tweeter in on top with the passive network. DON'T separate the mid bass from the high horn. If you really feel the need to get the horn up above head height put the mid bass and the the tweeter there as well. If you don't want to use a DSP crossover ( there are more and better versions than the MiniDSP ) get an old BSS or TDM analog electronic crossover.

  3. #3
    Administrator Robh3606's Avatar
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    If this is for home, quick and easy would be to but the 18's under the Urie 811's. Just get an analog 2 way active crossover and set the 18's up as subs. It won't have as much SPL but will likely sound better than trying to get the balance of the system up and running. Those Urie's are first class old school monitors and sound great when set-up. IMHO That would be the best sounding solution with what you have. At the very least give them a try with the subs and see if you are happy. They need subs to sound balanced they will be too lean without them. They roll off at about 80Hz.

    Not the 'C' but close enough.

    http://www.lansingheritage.org/html/.../1984-urei.htm

    Rob
    "I could be arguing in my spare time"

  4. #4
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    Talking

    Hello Badnews,

    That’s an interesting collection of drivers.

    I found myself in the same dilemma in the mid 1990’s.

    Firstly l don’t think it’s crazy as you can have fun working it out as you go.

    There is no right or wrong answer because it’s diy and it will come down to your own preferences. I trusted my ears more than reading online suggestions. In the end after a lot of comparisons of different drivers and horns l went with an established jbl design that has since grown in popularity.

    But there are a few truths.
    Don’t try and aim for perfection straight away.
    Don’t use a driver for the wrong purpose.

    My suggestion is to use the E155 as your woofer as mentioned. Crossover 150-300 hertz
    From your list the 2206 woofer is a good candidate for your lower midrange. 150 - 1000 hertz
    Use the 2440 on the 2350 2350 horn initially and be prepared to compare it to other horns such as the 2311 or even an Ari style radial horn. Crossover 1000 - 6500hertz
    2404 has wide uniform dispersion and will bring your project to life. Crossover 6500 hertz

    While l understand you are against a Minidsp crossover a SH DBX Drive rack will make your choice of crossover characteristics easier during your journey. You can then arrange an analogue crossover.

    Failing that the Ashley crossovers in a three way are useful while your are playing and thinking about it. The whole crossover question can be a rabbit hole and is very dependent on your particular choice of components and how your set them up physically.

    As a rough guide though it might look like this
    E155-8. Crossover 150 hertz 12 db slope active
    2206 Crossover 150 hertz 12 db slope active
    2206 Crossover 1000 hertz 24 db slope * active
    2440 Crossover 1000 hertz 24 db slope * active
    2440 Crossover 6500 hertz 18 db slope passive **
    2404 Crossover 6500 hertz 18 db slope passive ** use JBL 3105 initially

    * crossover frequency chosen for best pattern control of the 2350 horn to blend with the 2206 driver.
    ** passive crossover that can be modified to optimal driver characteristics. The 2440 driver has a natural falling response above 6000 hertz and the dispersion of the horn narrows at high frequencies above 8000 hertz. The 2404 has much more consistent dispersion above the crossover point and will blend better at 6000 hertz than a higher crossover point with the 2350 horn.

    *. ** (Based on JBL published data)

    I would stack the drivers vertically with the woofer at the bottom. The horn and your 2206 should be close together.

    The relatively high efficiency & dynamic characteristics of these drivers are the virtue of such a project loudspeaker system that will bring recorded sound reproduction to life. The aim of my suggested crossover settings is to obtain the lowest THD from these particular drivers in the midrange where you are going to appreciate it.

    You can use the Urei monitors as a control reference.

    If you have detailed questions there is a wealth of experience here on the forums. But don’t expect the same answers from everyone.

    If you want a more factual understanding of your project l would tryout
    REW with the Minidsp mic.

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