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Thread: Finally Got the JBL 4345

  1. #31
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dev View Post
    My audio equipment is all digital.
    Proceed CDT 3 transport / Aurender S10 streamer / Denafrips Terminator / Conrad Johnson CT 5 pre and Conrad Johnson LP70s power .
    Nice setup!
    How do you like the Aurender? A friend has the Aurender W20SE and loves the sound but is rather frustrated by the interface.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dev View Post
    How important are those lenses?
    Probably more important that a crossover rebuild. You should track a pair down.

    http://www.lansingheritage.org/html/...nical/lens.htm


    Widget

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget View Post
    Nice setup!
    How do you like the Aurender? A friend has the Aurender W20SE and loves the sound but is rather frustrated by the interface.

    Probably more important that a crossover rebuild. You should track a pair down.

    http://www.lansingheritage.org/html/...nical/lens.htm


    Widget
    Thank you Widget The Aurender is a great streamer , slightly slower then the LUMIN, but much better sound quality. Tried few streamers before settling down to Aurender and the iPad interface is not that bad

    Regards



    Regards

  3. #33
    Senior Member RMC's Avatar
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    The lens provide proper sound dispersion in the room, so they are important...

    If you cannot find the right JBL lens you may want to look at McCauley Sound they made similar aoustic lens that may also be offered on EBay?

    Richard
    POWERED BY: QSC, Ashly, Tascam, Rolls Mosfet, NAD, and Crest Audio

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by RMC View Post
    The lens provide proper sound dispersion in the room, so they are important...

    If you cannot find the right JBL lens you may want to look at McCauley Sound they made similar aoustic lens that may also be offered on EBay?

    Richard

    Thank you RMC, Kenrick sound offers lens on eBay. Will also check McCauley Sound.
    regards

  5. #35
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dev View Post
    Thank you RMC, Kenrick sound offers lens on eBay. Will also check McCauley Sound.
    regards
    The ones that Kenrick offers are very faithful reproductions and are well made. Short of finding an original pair, I would go with the Kenrick lenses.


    Widget

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget View Post
    The ones that Kenrick offers are very faithful reproductions and are well made. Short of finding an original pair, I would go with the Kenrick lenses.


    Widget
    Hi widget, point noted abt kenrick lenses, will be ordering them only on September though.
    regards

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riley Casey View Post
    Rewiring without the switch ( the no schematic reading version ).


    Note where the switch contacts are bridged by the contacts on the switch ( there are five such 'bridges' based on the schematic.
    Solder a jumper between each pair of holes that match those bridged contacts.
    Confirm that the number of the holes jumpered matches the number and location of the switch contacts that are bridged.
    For the record, there are actually six 'bridges' on the switch connections, per the schematic and the PCB.

    It looks like Dev has already figured out the wiring, but in case it's helpful to anyone consulting this thread later, I'm including a diagram here that I used when removing the switch and replacing it with individual wire jumpers. The black connections (drawn on the PCB) denote the placement of the six jumpers for full passive mode ("Internal Crossover"), and the red connections denote the placement of the six jumpers for bi-amp mode ("External Crossover"). I tried the wires in both positions, and confirmed proper operation.

    I've long since moved to a bi-amp configuration with a First Watt B4 and my own charge-coupled external crossover PCBs. Dev: I highly recommend the charge-coupled, bi-amped configuration as part of your explorations with your 4345s. Have fun and enjoy the ride!
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattking52 View Post
    For the record, there are actually six 'bridges' on the switch connections, per the schematic and the PCB.

    It looks like Dev has already figured out the wiring, but in case it's helpful to anyone consulting this thread later, I'm including a diagram here that I used when removing the switch and replacing it with individual wire jumpers. The black connections (drawn on the PCB) denote the placement of the six jumpers for full passive mode ("Internal Crossover"), and the red connections denote the placement of the six jumpers for bi-amp mode ("External Crossover"). I tried the wires in both positions, and confirmed proper operation.

    I've long since moved to a bi-amp configuration with a First Watt B4 and my own charge-coupled external crossover PCBs. Dev: I highly recommend the charge-coupled, bi-amped configuration as part of your explorations with your 4345s. Have fun and enjoy the ride!
    Hi Mattking , very kind of you to share the diagram.
    Just now completed upgrading the caps in my stock x over, so the CC should be a project after few years
    Thanks

  9. #39
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    Hi Matt,

    Great to see you post.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Mackenzie View Post
    Hi Matt,

    Great to see you post.
    Thanks, Ian! Been a while.
    Hope all is well with you.

  11. #41
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    Amplifier for 4345

    Hi, hope everyone is doing fine.
    Will an Accuphase Class A amplifier, like E 600 or E 650 ( 30 watt) drive the 4345. I never crank up the volume ( max 80db). Room size 20×14 feet
    I know bi-amping is the best , but that upgrade need to wait for an year or so.
    Thanks for your time and waiting for your advice
    Regards

  12. #42
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dev View Post
    Hi, hope everyone is doing fine.
    Will an Accuphase Class A amplifier, like E 600 or E 650 ( 30 watt) drive the 4345. I never crank up the volume ( max 80db). Room size 20×14 feet
    I know bi-amping is the best , but that upgrade need to wait for an year or so.
    Thanks for your time and waiting for your advice
    Regards
    I like small class A amps. Give it a shot.

    You could always pick up an active crossover, and drop in a heavy iron class AB amp on the 18" woofers.


    Widget

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget View Post
    I like small class A amps. Give it a shot.

    You could always pick up an active crossover, and drop in a heavy iron class AB amp on the 18" woofers.


    Widget
    He could also turn up the Mid, Hf and UHF pots up to increase sensitivity when bi-amping. Get a bit more headroom.

    Rob
    "I could be arguing in my spare time"

  14. #44
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    Thanks Widget and Rob, it's a blind buy and I may go for it.
    Regards

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