Genuine JBL 2235h?

[c10m]

Hi,
can you please help me to identify if these are original (reconed) 2235h? I'd like to buy them but i'm not experienced enough to avoid "hybrids". Many thanks in advance

[Earl K]

They do look legit to these eyes.

BTW; Reconed JBL usually do have that "white" grease pencil markings ( as seen written on the back of the cone ).

[Eaulive]

At first glance they look legit...
Check through the hole if the old foam filter has been removed, should have been replaced by another material, or just left open so you see the inside of the dustcap.

[jbl4ever]

Hello c10m, the one driver a the top of the photo was a E130 or E140 basket in its day. This can be seen by the mounting holes having the larger half moon clips drilled in the mounting frame. I have never in all my days had a 2235 or 2225 frame with this in it. Only MI drivers. It has been about 5 years since I had a new C8R2235 kit but the trim gasket on these look different. Can you get a better close up on the dust caps to make sure there is no lip on them. As for a grease pencil anyone can buy them and use it on the back of the cone before assembly. That's how it was done at the shop years ago and sometimes a fabric chalk pencil

[jbl4ever]

Also do not see the rear gasket noodle that came with a new recone kit

[Earl K]

Hello c10m, the one driver a the top of the photo was a E130 or E140 basket in its day. This can be seen by the mounting holes having the larger half moon clips drilled in the mounting frame. I have never in all my days had a 2235 or 2225 frame with this in it. Only MI drivers. It has been about 5 years since I had a new C8R2235 kit but the trim gasket on these look different. Can you get a better close up on the dust caps to make sure there is no lip on them. As for a grease pencil anyone can buy them and use it on the back of the cone before assembly. That's how it was done at the shop years ago and sometimes a fabric chalk pencil

Good Eyes jbl4ever !!

I didn't notice the E130/E140 basket ( nor the trim gasket being different than what I'm used to ).

The E130/140 basket should be a deal breaker ( even if the kits are authentic ) since the bigger/thicker magnet on the E130/E140 means the two woofers won't be a matched pair.

[c10m]

Hello c10m, the one driver a the top of the photo was a E130 or E140 basket in its day. This can be seen by the mounting holes having the larger half moon clips drilled in the mounting frame. I have never in all my days had a 2235 or 2225 frame with this in it. Only MI drivers. It has been about 5 years since I had a new C8R2235 kit but the trim gasket on these look different. Can you get a better close up on the dust caps to make sure there is no lip on them. As for a grease pencil anyone can buy them and use it on the back of the cone before assembly. That's how it was done at the shop years ago and sometimes a fabric chalk pencil

Thanks to everyone: your precious advices arrived just before closing the deal. Thanks again

[RMC]

Since the drivers' back vent is open i had the same idea as Eaulive regarding any remaining foam in that cavity. Foam rot in woofers is a pain to remove correctly, and if not done it can migrate in the gap.

I use a small powerful flashlight pointing inside that vent hole AND lower in it a small round dentist mirror with a handle (same as they put in your mouth) to look around the driver's interior. Then you know if there's any of that foam left.

[c10m]

Since the drivers' back vent is open i had the same idea as Eaulive regarding any remaining foam in that cavity. Foam rot in woofers is a pain to remove correctly, and if not done it can migrate in the gap.

I use a small powerful flashlight pointing inside that vent hole AND lower in it a small round dentist mirror with a handle (same as they put in your mouth) to look around the driver's interior. Then you know if there's any of that foam left.

I cannot inspect the drivers because i still have to buy them. More reasonable thing is to give up and wait for better opportunities. Thanks

[RMC]

It may not be reasonable to give up purchasing for foam left since other drivers you'll encounter may still have inside foam too. So you don't give up here for that sole reason as you may have to give up again and again. Sadly, good internal inspection, including cutting the dustcap to check inside the gap, is the only way to know...

[c10m]

[QUOTE=RMC;437805]It may not be reasonable to give up purchasing for foam left since other drivers you'll encounter may still have inside foam too. So you don't give up here for that sole reason as you may have to give up again and again. Sadly, good internal inspection, including cutting the dustcap to check inside the gap, is the only way to know...[/QUOTE

inside foam is not my main concern, actually. Also baskets seem to be “strange hybrids” if you read the above advices. They’re asking 840 euros + shipping and for that money i’d like to buy drivers in very good conditions.

[Eaulive]

Hello c10m, the one driver a the top of the photo was a E130 or E140 basket in its day. This can be seen by the mounting holes having the larger half moon clips drilled in the mounting frame. I have never in all my days had a 2235 or 2225 frame with this in it. Only MI drivers. It has been about 5 years since I had a new C8R2235 kit but the trim gasket on these look different. Can you get a better close up on the dust caps to make sure there is no lip on them. As for a grease pencil anyone can buy them and use it on the back of the cone before assembly. That's how it was done at the shop years ago and sometimes a fabric chalk pencil

Good eyes indeed, I didn't see that.
However I have originals E-140 frames here and they don't have that half-moon shape around the mounting holes... Actualy it's the first time I notice those.

[Jekyll]

Hello c10m,

I have several genuine C8R2235 and they all have the number 50320 printed on the back, close to the spider ( not handwritten).
From my experience if you don't see this number, they are not originals

[Earl K]

Hello c10m,

I have several genuine C8R2235 and they all have the number 50320 printed on the back, close to the spider ( not handwritten).
From my experience if you don't see this number, they are not originals

Yes, good point.

That 50320 number needs to be there ( though many times it's located so high on the cone that it gets hidden from view ) .

See this for an example ( this is an unused C8R2235 that I now need to refoam since it's a good 20 years old )

[Eaulive]

Yes, good point.

( this is an unused C8R2235 that I now need to refoam since it's a good 20 years old )

Kind of funny and sad at the same time, having to refoam a recone kit...