KM2

[Ian Mackenzie]

Thanks grumpy for the measures!

What sebacman made, is superior, for sure. There is SO FEW people out there who are able to do something with own arms. To finish things, even the back side of product...
I like the concept: 4'' dia with M2 lens + 15'' low. Because IMHO proper 15 'sings right' below the CD part (I have 4429 at moment and I miss the authority of 15''.)
___________________

My project and 'philosophy' :
Why 'torture' same woofer with so much of octaves; 6-7 octaves simultaneously?
Why not to give lowest octaves to handle for the bigger boy like 2269, to what it's intended to. Cross 60...80Hz and below.

Did You even try to make two things simultaneously - drill a hole to wall with left hand and paint the wall with right hand same time? :-)

If 2216 is right now 'busy' with lowest part of male and suddenly comes in some a synthesized waves at 30hz, and thousands of another el.mgn.waves , simultaneusly...
Logic says, if cut of some part from low end, it 'releses' lot of energy and makes easyer to deal with higher waves.
When I started my first projects when I was 14, remember one rule - leave one woofer ca 3-4 octaves, if You can...

So: my discussion is: (not a argue),
why 2216+2216 is better than 2216+2269 ?

According what I have in mind:

- just want to pay attention, the listening room would be a'bit bigger than usual living room. It's a lounge area of production plant. Picture below.
Red line is planned thick curtains. Green arrows direction of sound (there is a quite damped wall behing the speakers). Orange area would covered with thick carpet.
Room is 4,5m high, 40 metres long...
The lounge (listening area) would be some 8x8 metres, covered with carped in the middle and surrounded with thick curtains.
I thing if I'm sitting in this geen circle, curatin behing me, basically like open air situation...

- With no exceptions I read everybody says, the M2 is good. Very good.
And JBL made a SUB18 too.
Why they made it?

- SUB18 is a box and a 2269. Right? If I take now a pair of M2 and and a pair of SUB18 (pair, because room is big) , like they are, originally, then everything is OK. Right?

But if I take lot of, for example, epoxy glue and connect M2 and sub18 together, the only difference I see : it's impossible to transport these two items separately, never, anymore :-)
So, how does it concern the sound?

Basically, my plan is 'glue' them together, simple as that!
And yes, 4'' dia instead D2.

I completely missed this post. My internet in the current location is poor. Sorry.

If you want to pursue the Everest idea and need some certainty on how to play that out with what drivers, crossover functionality and hardware l can help you. Send me a PM.

The Everest needs to be carefully set up to perform.

Your other idea of a vertical array has the advantage that the midrange can project well above the floor.

Some great articles on building your own multi-way design here.

Finding a midrange driver that will work in your design is the key according to Troels .
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/The-Lou..._PieterJan.htm
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/The-Loudspeaker-2.htm

[Anti K]

You have to decide what you want to do

My thoughts exactly. Sonos.

Posted it in here - this thread - below link once again. In case someone don't have internet, glasses, have VGA monitor etc.

I changed my mind within this thread when I got EVEREST cabinets.
Which is obvious IMHO. Got factory-made cabinets and decided not to execute my self-made. Such a sin!?
Which made some people, seems to me, totally confused.
Maybe had to start at that moment a new thread.

GOT NEW CABINETS 5 WEEKS AGO !!! Sorry heroes, didn't get it right yet.

Just asked about some drivers. About JBL drivers in JBL forum (sic!).

attachment.php

[Ian Mackenzie]

So are you going to retro fit two woofers. A mid cone and a horn into the Everest cabinets? Just to be clear?

Some ideas on this website if you look around.
http://www.westlakeaudio.com/Speaker...m_series2.html

[macaroonie]

Ian , just to bring you up to speed , Anti's idea is to McGuyver the Everest cabinets by removing the existing baffles and fitting new ones upside down as it were. This will put the 2 2216 drivers lower down and thus leaving enough space above the bass units and below the bottom of the horn to fit a 10 - 12" mid driver.
It was suggested that the 2123 would be a fit in this application , Anti has also located the 2261 as a possible option.
Thats why he is keen to get the data on each of the drivers.
Now , whether he goes the route of cloning the Everest horn ' lips ' or grafting in the other waveguide options is for him to decide.
If it were me I would have a go at the lips option , thus keeping the original design visually intact. If it does not work to his satisfaction he can rip them out and try some other options.

Hope that clarifies things. Regds Mac


BTW Tube JUnkie on the bay has loads of 2123 at very low prices currently.

[Ian Mackenzie]

Logic would suggest at least try the 2216 woofers and the existing horn and say it’s not for me before the hack job...Lol.


Ian

[macaroonie]

Ärge muretsege , nad on aeglased eemalduma oma taksoraamatust. Peaksite välja töötama, kuidas oma pilte paremaks muuta.
Sa kasutad vale üleslaadimise meetodit, mul on sellega lõbus. Vladimir :~)


Please watch this gang

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqLJA7sXD-c

[Robh3606]

Got any pictures of the cabinet? Did you get the throats for the compression drivers?? If not you are going to need them to use the cabinets as intended. Guido made throats at one point not sure how close they were to the originals.

Rob

[ivica]

Got any pictures of the cabinet? Did you get the throats for the compression drivers?? If not you are going to need them to use the cabinets as intended. Guido made throats at one point not sure how close they were to the originals.

Rob

Hi Bobh386 and Anti K,

As I have remembered our Forum member Jan Daugaard
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...8-Jan-Daugaard
a several years ago has made full 3D model for DD66k horn, and I believe that he can be very helpful if proper DD66k horn want to be realized, especially its HORN THROAT and UPPER AND LOWER HORN LIPS have to be made.
So he had arranged such years ago:
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...l=1#post368894

Owing to his helpful and unselfish instructions I have calculated 3D model for my horn (which is inspired by the DD66k horn), and
have realized it owing to great help of my good friend who had 3D CNC machine. My horn is less wide (+/-45 deg horizontal, vs original DD66k which is about +/- 60 deg) about 60cm horizontal and 24cm vertical.
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...1&d=1381156034


Regards
Ivica

[Ian Mackenzie]

Rob3606 being a New Yorker would plough straight in modifying the cabinets without much thought to the next step... Lol. You know the first time we discussed a project he argued like it was the end of the world and then the light bulb in his head went on and he turned into a big puppy. I will never forget that moment. It was a New York tantrum.

[Anti K]

Got any pictures of the cabinet?

Here, in THIS thread occasionally
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...0738-KM2/page7

[Anti K]

This thread lives it's own life and let it be! It's democracy, every fool or wise can say whatever he wants...
I quote LH forum-mate here: * A fool’s paradise is a wise man’s hell *
Yo! Just depends from what side to watch

I gathered together thoughts from people who - seems to me - delve into project (why, where etc) and I'm going ahead that road with these suggestions.
Soon hopefully I'll get The Lenses, actually only 'part of them' what I'm planning , and then I have opportunity to start make 'hands dirty'
Now the 4'' CD what I was looking for is out of market. Soon back hopefully, Covid...

Beryllium is /… / naturally internally dampened and yet it is super stiff and is crazy light (look at it's atomic number). That said, simply putting a Be diaphragm in a JBL or another driver does not make it the best driver.

I agree 100% with your idea of using the heavy curtains to frame out the listening area for more intimate or critical listening. Since the curtains will be invisible to lower frequencies, I think your idea of adding reinforcement here is very valid.

using a lowmid can be rewarding, but it is pretty difficult to setup correctly, especially the crossover with the woofer(s).

Here are a few points to consider when choosing such a driver:
- choose the diameter based on the directivity and crossover frequency with the horn
- choose the highest sensitivity driver that still has enough excursion to go down to the woofer crossover at your target SPL and distortion.
- choose a cone that does not show any major breakup artifacts up to 1/2 oct above your horn crossover (more or less, depending on the slope there)
- choose a good modern motor /... / in the mids

Have not much to add.

I like specially the last part. I do like very much JBL DD motors and new baskets, how the heatsink is realised - all basket is a enourmous heatsink!
Compared most others, I'm looking and asking myself, how this 'softy beauty' can handle this what I intend to 'weld' in there...

JBL have a line array box VTX V25 , 2 x15 , 4!!! x 8" mids and 3!!! x D2.

All DSP managed as they have to be not the least of the reasons being that the venues can change every other day.
Anti has by most standards a huge spce to fill. /... / The implementation of a high power mid driver makes sense.

Thnx macaroonie! Btw, I 'studied' this VTX V25 couple hours...

[JeffW]

Reminds me of something I posted a while back...

I'd advise jumping on in there and building something! These threads can go on and on, competing opinions weighing in on various aspects - but you seem to have a decent grasp of what you're after. If Design A doesn't cut it, go to Design B. I guarantee you those Widget speakers weren't his Design A. A journey of a thousand miles starting with the first step and all of that...

[Anti K]

JeffW, I was just digging here to find Your this part, didn't find, thread is too long!
Good point, Jeff!

After ca 6-7 weeks after getting these cabinets I get Lens (thinking which ones and how, incl this timewindow).

And grumpy had good point too:

What happens behind the grille cloth, stays behind the grille cloth?

FOR EVERYONE!
I DO NOT DO EVERESTS. I DO NOT DO BETTER THAN EVERESTS.
I DO DIY INTO EVEREST CABINETS.
...AND MAYBE SOMETHING ELSE AS WELL.

[Robh3606]

What happens behind the grille cloth, stays behind the grille cloth?

Just don't go full Kabuki on us!


It's a joke search "Kabuki Speakers" if you are not familiar.

Rob

[macaroonie]

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...l=1#post435320

They are from the Hornslet sell off a few years ago. They were the very accomplished cabinet makers in Denmark that made boxes for JBL , Dali , Linn and others

As you can see they are veneered with filling in progress. I would have to have eyes on to tell whether they could be brought to a proper quality of finish. Anti has said that he is thinking in terms of a A+++ paint finish. Nothing wrong with that.

Some good and positive responses here fellahs