I'd suggest to have a look at those two caps in the woofer circuit.
I'd suggest to have a look at those two caps in the woofer circuit.
After having swopped out the capacitors for the woofers and added the missing 0.0068 mF parallel capacitor, we checked the speakers again, same result.
Dug out an old amp and hooked it up, guess the problem all the time was the amp my son uses! Must have blown a circuit or something, wish I had thought about checking that first.
Anyway, we have new capacitors in the x-over and working speakers, not bad at all.
Thanks so much for your help and advise
Btw, the schematics for the L110A shows parallel 0.0068 mF capacitors for all components, do they make a lot of difference? They're missing on both x-overs, guess they were removed during a repairs years ago. We added them for the woofers but not for the midrange and the tweeters.
They are called bypass capacitors. There's endless discussion about them in various threads here. They are probably worth adding if you care about good sound.
Yeah, for what it's worth:Originally Posted by Don C
Bypassed and Biased Capacitors
I wish you would please share with me what you did not like about the Dayton film and foils for by-pass use
I have read where you wrote that it was "not nice", but I was extremely interested in knowing just how so (YOUR impressions, exactly what did you not like about them)
I sent you several PMs and no reply; am I on your shit list?
Sorry for the hijack Louisiana; glad y'all got your problem straightened out
Thanks
Thomas
If I remember correctly it was the Dayton film and foil in conjunction with some main cap brand that sounded shrill and harsh. It wasn't subtle. I believe the Dayton film and foils worked just fine with a different brand of main capacitor, I no longer remember which. I do distinctly remember liking the AudioCap Thetas.
For what it is worth I didn't liked the sound of the Solen capacitors either until I started biasing them. I was kind of dubious of G.T.'s suggestion that I would like them charge-coupled, how does one spin gold from straw right? Needless to say, he was right. Go figure...
Come to think of it, he has never steered me wrong....
Thank youIf I remember correctly it was the Dayton film and foil in conjunction with some main cap brand that sounded shrill and harsh. It wasn't subtle. I believe the Dayton film and foils worked just fine with a different brand of main capacitor, I no longer remember which. I do distinctly remember liking the AudioCap Thetas.
For what it is worth I didn't liked the sound of the Solen capacitors either until I started biasing them. I was kind of dubious of G.T.'s suggestion that I would like them charge-coupled, how does one spin gold from straw right? Needless to say, he was right. Go figure...
Come to think of it, he has never steered me wrong....
I took your advice some time back and did several jobs with the Thetas and enjoyed the results. The reason I posted the question a while back (along with the PMs) and again today was that I had several "middle of the road" projects and the cap count was high. I just couldn't justify (afford) to bypass them all with AudioCaps, but I wanted to bypass them nonetheless.
Reviews by so called "professionals" for the Dayton film and foils was decent; several actually compared them as being not quite as good as the Thetas but very close.
I had used their standard types for mains several times with good results but had never combined them with their film and foils
I knew you had extensive experience experimenting with this and wanted your feedback before I soldered everything together (these were time intensive restorations and not new builds). Changing things out would not be desirable or very practical once put together; on one of them just finding the space to fit all the new film types in was a bitch (I was replacing non-polar electrolytics in old German boxes)
I finally made a decision and ordered a bag of the Daytons as well as their standard polypropylenes for the main values (I do like those and like them much better than the Solens). Two of the jobs are done and the results were very good (without having to squint), but neither qualify as good example of anything one would use for "critical listening". I will (can) say though that the results were a major improvement over what was originally installed (one was a pair of Klipsch Heresys)
Hate to say it, but I went ahead and put them together with the main values for my current JBL project, late production L100s (and re-stuffing their original cardboard tubes), the old style "Electro-Caps"
Labor intensive to say the least and I will soon know if going the cheap route was a mistake or not; there won't be any do overs with these as they are potted
The L100s will have Daytons for the main values as well
With such "iffy" candidates in the cap refresh queue that was why your feedback was important to me; in other words, would what you found objectionable even be a factor (detriment) in these not exactly the last word in resolution boxes (but I know, every little bit helps)
The Thetas for bypass would have nearly exceeded the costs for the total main value count; that was the rub
Glad to hear you say that it's like it always is; depends on what you're using them with and not simply a complete dismissal
Here's hoping I didn't just kick myself in the ass cheaping out!
BTDT.
The first attempt I made recapping my L110's (to get back sorta on topic?) was some generic Mylar caps from the local surplus house. Fortunately I had bought a second pair of N110's and was able to compare to stock. Even after a reasonable amount of time, there was no doubt that the stock caps were much better. Interestingly enough, they sound great when biased. Only problem is that I've bought all the large values they had...
Mike Scott in SJ, CA
Drive 'em to the Xmax!
No, they were "bad" in conjunction with some brand of main capacitor that I have since forgotten. I want to say that they worked just fine with the Dayton metalized polys but I can't remember for sure. I thought I posted what they worked fine with.
I had run into something similar years before using Solen main caps with Sprague bypass caps.
Post #13 is what I stumbled across that got me going wanting to know the particulars:
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...664-Capacitors
Ok, so the Dayton bypass caps worked fine with the stock JBL mylars then.
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