How does a guy mount a 2445 driver? And, please don't .....

[cgregory4]

Start with, "Well, first, you saddle it up."

[grumpy]

Buy it dinner first?

Four bolts, bracket designed for the driver/horn combo (there are quite a few of them), or build a support
(e.g., baffle mounted horn... will need to support the weight of the driver).

[cgregory4]

I can't believe I sacrificed a 'straight line' like that one, for so few responses!

But yours was definitely 'righteous'!

"Four bolts, bracket designed for the driver/horn combo ..... " Is there a JBL number for this bracket and hardware? Or, is it 3rd party?

As always, thank you, Dude,

Greg

[grumpy]

There have been a number of iterations and suffix changes but here are some examples
for external brackets:


http://www.jblpro.com/pub/components/2506b.pdf

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Bra...ware/2509A.pdf

[JeffW]

"Very carefully, like porcupines mating"

If you look at some of the DIY builds here, like where guys use 4" 'phragm drivers in a 4345 for example, the method is nothing more than - well, a saddle! A cradle for the body of the driver to rest in, cut from the same ply as the cabinet is made from. Pretty simple, no part number required.

[Horn Fanatic]

It's been my experience with sound reinforcement not to use a cradle, but to use a length of C channel horizontally sandwiched between the horn and driver. I don't know what JBL brackets costs, but if one is a machinist, or knows a machinist, the mounting and throat holes could be drilled and machined at a reasonable cost. The ends of the channel of course, must be secured to the sides of the cabinet. I came by this idea after talking to a local sound company employee who once designed and built cabinets for Tycobrahe. He told me by cradling a driver behind the top plate, as I have seen some ALTECS mounted, or by the magnet, as some do with JBL's and ALTEC's, it was possible that by dropping the box too hard the magnet could shift, thereby closing the V.C. gap. It's unlikely that a HiFi cabinet would be dropped off a loading dock, but accidents happen.

There is another cheaper method Jensen used quite often that could easily be modified for mounting ALTEC and JBL drivers, which is to use two lengths of steel flat stock with holes on one end for the horn/driver mounting screws, and the other end bent at the proper angle based off the distance of the mounting screws and the inside top of the cabinet, with drilled holes in order to secure them to the inside top of the cabinet. Kind of an offset 'L' shape, with the pair forming a 'V'. As with the C channel, the flat stock would preclude any lateral and vertical movement. I have had success with both methods.

If you're mounting the horn and driver on top of a cabinet, well, use the JBL brackets. They essentially perform the same function as the C channel.

H.F.

[cgregory4]

Those are both good suggestions and give me a lot to work with. I'm an OC sorta guy, so your ideas appeal to me in terms of a secure mount. If I do need a machinist, I have a 'retired' one that is a 'ringer'!

Thanks again, HF,

Greg

[danvprod]

This is how I mount mine. The Aluminum pieces I picked up on eBay and I also built an MDF cradle, which is braced, and a stand with sticky rubber feet. They have been like this for ~6 months or so and seem pretty strong. I still need to get around to finishing them.

BTW -- the binding post piece was my previous mount, where the horn rested on the top of my bass cabinet. I've not had a chance to move the binding posts to the new configuration.

[grumpy]

The Aluminum pieces I picked up on eBay

I've seen and wondered about those a few times... any comments
about what appears to be a recast of the originals, but in aluminum?

[danvprod]

They are pretty high-quality. I paid $89 for the pair shipped. They fit the 4" drivers well and with the additional cradle support of the MDF on the CD, it's a pretty solid stand. I would recommend them.