My choice is 4628B,because of its drives(E145-8,2118,2404 are all hi-fi drivers),and Zilch had mentioned it before.
Pos has recommended SRX738.
what's your opinion?
My choice is 4628B,because of its drives(E145-8,2118,2404 are all hi-fi drivers),and Zilch had mentioned it before.
Pos has recommended SRX738.
what's your opinion?
46 lover
The Cabaret serie was designed to play loud (for its size) and be easily moveable. I don't know how hif-fi this one sounds, but I'd say from the (small) size of the cabinet that the bass must be boomy. That is fine for playing loud, but not for home hifi. You may want to double the cabinet's size.
The AE series work well. I've used the AM6215/95 as a center channel in a previous config.
I just listened to the JBL 4628's that I talked my 2nd ex into buying years ago. Oh yeah, they'll get plenty loud, but there's not a lot of bass, that's for sure. I believe these are 'reinforcement' speakers and they were specifically designed for keyboards.
You might think that those 15" woofers will deliver some slammin' bass, no, they will not. Zilch modified one of three 4628's (correct me if I'm wrong), by using a plumbing plug on one of them to boost the bass capabilities.
I peruse CL every day and I see tons of pro gear for sale, the SR series and the JRX series are popular. I'd be real reluctant to own these based on my Cabaret experience.
Finally, let's make it clear what "Pro" means. It can be one of two things in my opinion. It's either PA use or Studio Use. If you you're looking for a "Pro" system you can use at home, take a look at the Studio Monitors, like the 43xx series (I own the 4315's still).
Thanks for sharing your experience of pro box.
you said exactly right:4628B lacks some low extension and bass volume is not enough, but the MF and the HF is beautiful,that's why i love them,it's a bassguitar and keyboard reinforcement musical box!
The key question is how to improve them to be more suitable for hifi purpose,they are some options below:
1.replace 2404 with 2407(pos motioned).
2.replace 2118 with 2123(someone here have tried)
3.add 2425(like 55000)
4.just throw them away
what's your option?
BTW,42,43,44,LSR are very popular in home hifi,i here just mean PA box![]()
46 lover
Personally, I'll let somebody else cover those options, as that's exceeds my personal knowledge base, but if it was my set, I'd buy a pair of nice powered subwoofers, like the Velodyne HGS-12's, which would easily hid behind those huge boxes and you'd be good to go! You can set the crossover point and volume easily on the subs to get the sound you want and I'd bet that it would sound excellent!
Those 4628's are truly very powerful speakers on the highs and mids, they just need some help with the bottom.
In my opinion, you're going too far. You want to go with a Behringer DCX2496 speaker management system, redo the crossovers, replace the woofers in the 4628's etc, etc. Just play the 4628's as is! Then adjust the subwoofer crossover and volume until it pleases you! If you apply too much volume on the sub or too much low frequency, you will hear the midrange being smothered or suppressed and then you turn down the subwoofer.
You can do this by ear and what you want is for the subwoofer to pick up, where the 4628's drop off, it's that easy! No need to buy a bunch of equipment, rebuild custom crossovers, replace woofers in the 4628, etc, etc, because you might as well just get another pair of speakers. Just set it up, adjust it out and play!
In my opinion you both go too far. Run the 4628 as is, and add two active subs with an integrated crossover that can be set to around 40Hz. Set this crossover by ear depending on the locations.
I did! I was running two Velodyne HGS-12's (no external crossover) with my 4315's, as described. My initial problem was there wasn't a lot of bass from the 4315's, but once I changed my preamp from a modern digital unit, to a vintage Marantz, the bass came back and I sold the Velo's!
But it did work well, without having to modify the collectable 4315's or running an external crossover. Maybe Lee's solution is the deal, but I don't know enough about active subs or integrated crossovers to say if that works or not. It just very well may do the trick, but I think what I was running was simpler. Maybe less accurate, as I set the crossover point and volume on each sub by ear, but it sure sounded good to me!
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