Received my "new" PS1400, which works great and seems to be the later revision.
So now I have 2 that I can leave in "auto-on" mode plus one spare and one spare cab. All I need is one driver and one amp and I'll have 4 working.
I'd forgotten what a chore it is to set up a stack. A ratcheting allen wrench is a real necessity.
That's good news. I got my last one too about a week ago. I now have 7 PS1400's set up in my basement. Front two have PT800's stacked. Front center has the PC600 resting on top. Rear 4 are underneath respective surround speakers. So I'm going to spend this year keeping my eye open for 4 PT800's - I think I'll leave the PC600 for center duty.
I also picked up Emotiva's XPA-1 monoblocks - I have 3 across my front sound stage. It certainly made a difference from the Onkyo integrated I'd been using up to that point. I'm impressed with their quality price/performance ratio.
I'd be surprised if you found a better dedicated center speaker, unless perhaps if you went with the 880 Array. Though I've never heard one nor know anyone who has.Originally Posted by RedCoat23
I'm of the opinion that PS stacks don't absolutely need a center if you're sitting on-center.
I was just toying with the idea of going for a full stacked configuration for all 7. However, if I want to have a TV in front, instead of projecting to an acoustically transparent screen, the height of the stacked speaker is a little too high to wall mount a TV above (for my taste). Besides it's not as if I'm unhappy with the PC600; it's a great center.
You see if I went for an 880 array, then I'd just be unhappy looking at Performance series left and right pair...and that's just a whole slippery slope at that point, I'd want the rest to match... Cursing the forum as I went for making me destitute...
I don't think the audible difference between the PC600 and PT800 is enough to bother with creating a center PT800 stack in your situation.I was just toying with the idea of going for a full stacked configuration for all 7. However, if I want to have a TV in front, instead of projecting to an acoustically transparent screen, the height of the stacked speaker is a little too high to wall mount a TV above (for my taste). Besides it's not as if I'm unhappy with the PC600; it's a great center.
You see if I went for an 880 array, then I'd just be unhappy looking at Performance series left and right pair...and that's just a whole slippery slope at that point, I'd want the rest to match... Cursing the forum as I went for making me destitute...
FWIW, the place I bought my newest PS1400 from has listed another on eBay at a reasonable price. NIB, and a reputable seller. Aspen_Electronics
And FWIW the last few hundred A and B stock that JBL/Harman had left are all gone. Aspen and a few other dealers may have some left on hand but the supply will surely dry up soon.
Widget
Same place I bought my last one from
Same place I bought my last one from
Looks like a great price. My favorite subs for music (something about that PT800/PS1400 stack). Positioned so as to enhance the room gain a bit, they do reasonably well for movies, too. I bought two extras as backups, but matched them with my Revel M22s -- unreal blend (nearly rivals the PS stack) -- inspiring a wealth of compliments, even from the gals.
So far there has been discussion about the failures of the plate amps, but not actually trying to fix one. Here is my story in trying to fix a non-functioning plate amp.
Amp version: Rev - 03D 11/06/2000
All references to components are based on the PS1400 service manual and circuit board.
1. The first sign of trouble was when I noticed there was no output, the leds were red, and sometimes the leds would turn green for a second and would power the speaker. I checked the driver and installed the working amp from the other PS1400 in where the faulty one was and it worked fine, so I am pretty sure the problem is just within the amp itself.
Action taken:
a. I bench powered the amp and found nothing that would indicate that the amp shouldn't be working. Because transistors are often the culprit, I removed the output transistors. I then bench powered the amp and the relay sounded like it was functioning so I thought I had it figured out.
b. I ordered new transistors and changed the output transistors Q11, Q13, Q15, Q17
c. I then bench powered the amp and it appeared to be working
d. I also noticed visible dark spots on PCB board where R76 and R78 mount. It was the same on the board of my functioning PS1400. See pictures below of functioning board:
2. After reinstalling the plate amp it ran for a few minutes then back to red LEDs. I could hear the relay clicking.
Action taken:
a. I saw that the fuse had blown. I replaced the fuse from the working amp.
3. I powered the amplifier on the bench. PCB board shorted., D3 was melted, Q8 was visibly broken
a. Replaced D3, D?, R76, R78, Q5, Q8
b. Soldered over fried area of PCB board
3. Amplifier LEDs powered straight to green, but no output, burning smell
a. The PCB was fried again in same place; fixed, replaced burnt out U4
b. removed and tested bridge rectifier, diodes tested good.
c. Measured transformer resistance through DMM, both good and questionable had same measurements both VAC powered and Ohms while off.
4. Hooked up board to known working amplifier’s transformer. Blown fuse, no other visible damage.
Other things I may try:
1. Replace the power capacitors
2. Replace the output transistors again
3. There were a couple differences between my board and service manual schematic. Ex: R 76 and R 78 were not 820 Ohms, they were very close though. I wonder if there are any other changes?
Pic of the top of the board:
Note: you can see the replaced resistors R76 and R78. They are both 820 Ohms and 4 watts.
Pic of the top of the board:
Any other ideas?
Update: I removed the power caps and they were leaking. I have new ones on order (no the same brand). I remember from the days I was working for HK selling B-stock that there were problems with this brand of capacitor failing at a high rate. I assumed they were good before because I couldn't see any signs of leaking. I will report back once the new ones arrive and I get them on the board. I ordered Nichicon audio grade caps (647-UKW1J472MRD). **Edit: The caps in the picture demote where they were on the board. The upper right cap was in the lower left space on the board and the lower left cap was on the upper left place on the board. Image setting the board back down onto the caps.
Last edited by jener8tionx; 03-25-2013 at 10:06 AM. Reason: Added info
Wow, they don't look good. I'd be very interested to see what success you have in tracking down the culprit - capacitor's or otherwise. So thanks in advance for 'rolliing up your sleeves and getting your hands dirty'. It's much appreciated.
Thanks for sharing your trouble shooting efforts. Ti Dome had his redone while it was still possible at Northridge, other than that I know of no one that's recovered a failed PS1400 plate amp. Good luck and please keep us informed.
It would be nice to get a look at a fixed or updated board. I wonder why fixing these things is such a PITA to get working again.
Are you sure the brown stuff isn't some type of glue to give the caps some support other then the terminals? This is a pretty common practice.
Usually there is signs of pressure in the can like bulging. Or the just short and burst. But by reading your post it doesn't seem the be a power supply filter issue. Its something in the amp circuit or driver. Do you have a schematic?
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