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Thread: Comparitive merits: LE14A or 2214H?

  1. #1
    Junior Member winters860's Avatar
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    Question Comparitive merits: LE14A or 2214H?

    Hi all,

    I'm planning a 2-way speaker design with woofers crossed over to the horn in the 1000-1200 Hz range. I'm looking for bass extension that will give me an F3 point in the mid-30s, at least. My enclosures have a net volume of 2.9 cu. ft. before subtracting for bracing, horn, and woofer airspace. I'm looking for woofer suggestions that won't set me back more than $250 a pair.

    I keep coming back to the LE14A and 2214H. Neither of them are unobtainable, neither will cost a fortune, and tuned to 30-35 Hz, they model nearly identically in BassBox Pro. For the LE14H, the box is on the small size, but it should do pretty well and have good power handling. For the 2214H, the box sizing is smack dab between the two JBL cabs that used them, the bass-shy 4425 and the L100T, which some folks seem to think is too big of a cabinet for the driver.

    Do you have a preference in this situation? Are there any other likely candidates I'm ignoring?

    As far as buying goes, I'm aware that both of these drivers will need a refoam, if one hasn't been done recently. When it comes to the LE14A, how likely is it that it will need remagnetized or that the spider will be sagging enough to warrant a recone?

    Thanks,
    Joe

  2. #2
    Senior Member Wornears's Avatar
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    I can only speak of the 2214H in a pair of stock L100t -- it has plenty of bass for my needs in that cabinet. $250.00 is on the low side for a pair of them, at least in my experience of searching for over a year to find some worth buying.

    I ended up buying a pair of complete L100t with recently re-edged 2214H drivers and cosmetically-challenged cabinets for less than your price point. I did have to drive about 300 miles roundtrip to get them. You may find it quicker and more economical to buy a pair of working L100t and sell off the drivers, etc. you don't need.

    BTW, a 2008 Kia Sentra can hold one L100t in its trunk, and the other in the back seat.

  3. #3
    Senior Member pathfindermwd's Avatar
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    I don't think you can go wrong with either. The 2214 is a little punchier in my room, the LE14H going a tad lower and handling much more power. If you want the best I would have to call it the LE14H, if you are ok with really good, the 2214. In a large cab like the 250ti (and in the right room) the LE14H far surpasses the power of the 2214 in an L100T cab in a way that the specs might not suggest. Otherwise, it really comes down to the money and ease of availability.

  4. #4
    Senior Member duaneage's Avatar
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    I built many a system with the 2214 H. I also have a pair of L100T speakers. Let me tell you what I know about them.

    The design software usually specs a 1.7 Cu ft box tuned to around 50 hz. This would be the 4425 alignment and while transiently good (punchy) deep bass just isn't there. I built a 3.3 cu ft box for two of them, with low loss inductors, and despite many attempts at tuning was not able to get decent bass below 50 hz.

    The latest system I did was 2.5 cu ft with L100T3 crossover tuned to 38 hz. An odd alignment, I was going for a flat delay curve and better bass than the 4425 with a smaller box than L100T. This works pretty well, good solid response down to around 40 and not as boomy as the L100T. I used a 4 inch duct as well to prevent power compression which can be a problem with a driver like this.

    The L100T and T3 systems are close to SBB4 alignment and use a very big box (around 3+ cu ft) and low tuning around 32 hz to provide bass extension. The design harks back to the old days of a really big box with low tuning and the resulting boominess that results. This is certainly a good system that is very musical it just has a large box and so the tower format was used. The L100T is proof that a good system to listen to isn't always the perfect system on paper.

    The driver is a good driver but not as good as the 128H1 for designing small boxes. The 128h-1 is a damn fine driver which allows bass into the 30s in a box around 1.8 cu ft.

    I also dd 2 systems in cars with this driver, 4 cu ft tuned to 39 hz. The cabin gain masked the deficiencies and both rocked pretty well. Both were dual driver 2214H boxes without crossover coils. In a car environment they impressed everyone but the same box outside of the trunk on the ground lacked deep bass. Go figure.
    Why buy used when you can build your own?

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