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Thread: Westlake style horn drawings?

  1. #16
    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    One could do the same thing with a band saw or belt sander, depending
    on what tools were available; a pair of locating pins would help for the
    cutting/sanding as well as the glue-up (this may have been part of the
    referred-to jig... I don't recall).

    (...or do what I see now that Eso just posted...took me a minute to figure
    out which way to orient the plywood vs the plane cuts )

    With the Altec drivers, you'd either need adapters (1.4->2", then 2"->
    rectangular such as the JBL 2328 to fit the 2397 wood interface), or
    make your own, perhaps reducing the distance between top/bottom
    :dont-know ... sort of like what Johnny did here:

    http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...ead.php?t=5454

    I don't recall anyone here doing this such that you could use
    their experience.

  2. #17
    Senior Member eso's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpy View Post
    One could do the same thing with a band saw or belt sander, depending
    on what tools were available; a pair of locating pins would help for the
    cutting/sanding as well as the glue-up (this may have been part of the
    referred-to jig... I don't recall).

    (...or do what I see now that Eso just posted...took me a minute to figure
    out which way to orient the plywood vs the plane cuts )

    With the Altec drivers, you'd either need adapters (1.4->2", then 2"->
    rectangular such as the JBL 2328 to fit the 2397 wood interface), or
    make your own, perhaps reducing the distance between top/bottom
    :dont-know ... sort of like what Johnny did here:

    http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...ead.php?t=5454

    I don't recall anyone here doing this such that you could use
    their experience.
    I would run the grain down the length of the piece, but the reality is with Baltic Birch you're going to be cutting through just as much cross-grain as with grain.

    I have several really nice Lie-Neilsen very low angle planes and these great diamond encrusted sharpening plates that make it quick and easy to keep the irons sharp enough to shave with. Planing Baltic Birch ply will dull an iron quickly: razor sharp is the key to doing this effectively.


    eso

  3. #18
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpy View Post
    With the Altec drivers, you'd either need adapters (1.4->2", then 2"->
    rectangular such as the JBL 2328 to fit the 2397 wood interface), or
    make your own,...
    I tried a couple of attempts to make them work with a TAD 1.5" driver and was never happy with the results.

    I'd recommend sticking with a 2" driver. The best results I had with them was with a TAD TD-4001 2" driver.


    Widget

  4. #19
    Super Moderator yggdrasil's Avatar
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    John W made one for 1.5" drivers: http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...highlight=2397

    Since you seem to start with Altec 1.4" drivers, I would recommend starting with John W's version.
    Johnny Haugen Sørgård

  5. #20
    Junior Member EvilFuzz's Avatar
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    Thanks for answers, friends!

    2397 has only 1.375 distance from top to bottom, so did JBL make this model for use with 1.4" drivers primordially, as I can suppose? Or I'm wrong?

    Yggdrasil, Mr. Widget, I plan take 288 or 299 now just for a start, and make several throat adapters... TD-4001 is my future, as I hope))
    In project of studio monitors what I want to build, horns must be integrated, like Westlake's, so I must use one size of horn...

    Best regards,
    Kirill

    PS: and what is the best for your taste - 288 (not old C version) or 299?
    Last edited by EvilFuzz; 03-26-2010 at 06:37 AM. Reason: add question

  6. #21
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EvilFuzz View Post

    2397 has only 1.375 distance from top to bottom, so did JBL make this model for use with 1.4" drivers primordially, as I can suppose? Or I'm wrong?
    JBL never had a 1.4" or a 1.5" driver while this horn was in production.

    They did make a 1" to 2" adapter so that you could mount a 1" driver on it, but in my opinion, that combination was significantly inferior to using the two inch driver.

    Realize that both this generation Westlake horn and the JBL 2397 are designed to work with the JBL 2328 2" to rectangular throat adapter. If you do not use this adapter you will have significantly different results.


    Widget

  7. #22
    Junior Member EvilFuzz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget View Post
    JBL never had a 1.4" or a 1.5" driver while this horn was in production.
    I'm not really a specialist of JBL history yet, unfortunately. Sorry for my ignorance...

  8. #23
    Senior Member eso's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget View Post
    Top and Section views of the Westlake horn.
    Kicking the dead here.

    This fool had a pair of early Westlake horns and didn't make a drawing of them before selling them. Now someone is asking me to make a pair so searching for a few details.

    Widget, in your drawing you're calling 1.375" height and the vanes with a 2" driver? or was this a smaller version for a smaller driver?

    The horns I had here were 2" high through there. See the photos. I didn't take and great detail photos, but it is possible to see the full circle of the driver mouth at the mounting point.

    Could you share your CAD drawing with me? I could use so detail on the profile of the vanes.

    eso
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    30Hz Bass Horns/K151, Custom mid bass & midrange horns/Cogent DS 1428 & 1448 field coil drivers, Fostex T925a tweeters.

  9. #24
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    The version of Westlake horn that I borrowed and measured was for 2” exit drivers. It used JBL’s 2328 throat adapter.

    I don’t have any information left that I didn’t post on the forum here. There are more detailed drawings that I posted, but searching the forum is very difficult, especially for posts from around 20 years ago.


    Widget

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