If one has a 2235H they wish to use for a woofer, what might be a good recommended midrange and tweeter combination to compliment the 2235H?
This is for HiFi and driven by a tube amp,
If one has a 2235H they wish to use for a woofer, what might be a good recommended midrange and tweeter combination to compliment the 2235H?
This is for HiFi and driven by a tube amp,
Why are you asking?? I thought you had a 3 way built already. If you are looking at a clasic JBL system then a L300 clone is the obvious choice. If you want more complexity that a 4344 fits the bill. Depends on what you are looking for. A two way the 4430 is the obvious choice.
Rob
"I could be arguing in my spare time"
Yes, but it is problematic. I used an Audax PR170M0 for the mid at someone else's recommendation and had someone turn a crossover design based on that.Originally Posted by Robh3606
Why are you asking?? I thought you had a 3 way built already. If you are looking at a clasic JBL system then a L300 clone is the obvious choice. If you want more complexity that a 4344 fits the bill. Depends on what you are looking for. A two way the 4430 is the obvious choice.
Rob
Turns out the Audax has an SPL of about 100 and the crossover uses a lot of resistors to pad down the mid and it is still almost 4 to 6 dB too loud. When the crossover calls for a 45 Watt resistor I start to cringe thinking about all the power that needs to be bled off.
So I am just looking at all the alternatives (including further padding of the Audax).
The real problem when padding down a loudspeaker is not the wasted power but rather the loss of damping by the amplifier.
If You had horn drivers You would need to pad them down as well.
The best solution is an active one. Have a look at dbx driveRack and at EV DC-one. That are affordable digital crossovers.
Ruediger
That is an option. I have a Ashley XR2001.
However, I just got done building a splendid tube amp and I really don't want to build one or two more, plus the tangle of extra wires right now.
It would be helpful if I could model the crossover in HT's Bass Box/X-Over Pro, but the crossover was designed by someone using LEAP and I can't seem to replicate the circuit topology in my program.
Next step is to drag one of the beasts outside into the yard and perform a sweep. That should give me a better idea of what factors are room artifacts and what factors are really attributes of the speaker.
I am thinking of laying the cabinet face up so that I minimize reflections from trees, fence, and the house in my yard. Unfortunately, it is going to be a bit windy here for a few days, but that is better than the forcast for Washington, DC.
can you use 4*2235 on channel?
Might as well get started punching eight 15" holes into the concrete wall.can you use 4*2235 on channel?
Post the schematic
Rob
"I could be arguing in my spare time"
Here is the complete LEAP document that I received. Note, the plot for the 2235H with the 10" long ports was for reference only. The cabinet is currently tuned to 28 Hz. The target was 32 Hz and that was what the crossover was designed for.Post the schematic
Rob
http://www.mdbq.net/pyramid/LEAP.pdf
I had overlooked the link to the LEAP document, sorry.
What really fascinates me is that such a simple crossover can change a loudspeakers characteristic completely.
Take the 2235H data sheet. Page 1 of the LEAP document does not show the irregularities beyond 1 kHz and the steep descent beyond 2 kHz. Page 4 shows an irregularity at 500 Hz which is not present in the 2235H data sheet.
The Audax midrange shows heavy irregularities from 3 kHz on (Audax data sheet). They are cured on page 1 of the LEAP document.
The tweeter response has a notch at 15 kHz in the tweeters data sheet, this is gone as well.
Need to go now, more tomorrow.
Ruediger
Good catches!
I am beginning to feel there are some real cracks in this design.
I looked a bit around at linearx' s website. One ***CAN*** do loudspeaker measurements in a prototype enclosure, and one ***CAN*** import such measurement files into the crossover shop, but obviously this has not been done in Your case.
Another oddity which jumped into my eyes is that the bass coil's DC resistance is not specified and thus cannot have been taken into account for the bass enclosure. One could at least have specified an upper limit.
The Audax midrange seems to be usable from 400 Hz to 2.5 kHz, and the tweeter could cover the range from 2.5 kHz up.
Frankly: I think it is a waste of time to continue the current approach with the current components.
There are plenty of alternatives, two seem to be very attractive to me.
No. 1 is a 4430 clone.
No. 2 is a two way system with a 2" driver and a beryllium diaphragma (later refinement). There is a company offering be diaphragmas for JBLs.
Ruediger
Poop. Okay. I can see where the LEAP analysis and crossover I got was not a good plan.
I am exploring all routes. Seems a shame to ditch the cabinets after all that work (at least I did not put the koa veneer on them), but if it turns out I am going down a dead end street, then the sooner I stop, the better.
Can you tell me more about option #2? Specifically, about what horn components I need? If there are part numbers or something to help me figure out what I need.
The number 1 option I think I can simply do some research on to see what components are needed there. The number 2 option is a little more nebulous.
Thanks, again.
A paper about the #1 option: http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...15&postcount=1
You need 2425H or 2426H drivers (8 Ohm) and 2344 horns. Do ***NOT*** buy J drivers (16 Ohm), because the xover is sophisticated and cannot easily be adapted to 16 Ohm drivers.
Info about aftermarket beryllium diaphragmas can be found here: http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...77&postcount=1
A very good 2" horn is the 2397 Smith horn. It requires an adapter. A Smith horn can also be built with relative ease. See: http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...77&postcount=1
There are several 2" drivers of interest. That is a topic of its own. Maybe somebody else can explain?
I do have a 4430 clone with J-drivers and an active xover. I do also have 2445 and 2450 drivers, and 2390 and 2395 lenses. The differences are small. The 2" drivers sound effortless, and the 2395 is my favourite.
Ruediger
Before you throw in the towel try padding the midrange down. You should also call Madisound and tell them your not happy and explain that your mid is too hot. You did pay them right?? Try using their customer service. They can easilly adjust the pad values for you. If they are receptive you can send them a text file of your measurements they can import and use as a reference curve in LEAP.
They used heavily smoothed canned curves. Leap Enclosure Shop has a huge library of them. You need measuements of you drivers in your box for Leap to work unless the canned curves are close to your in box measurements.
Rob
"I could be arguing in my spare time"
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