Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 23

Thread: 175 driver seperation fix?

  1. #1
    Member Squarewave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Chico, Ca
    Posts
    47

    175 driver seperation fix?

    Hi all,
    Like a good newbe, I tried looking around the site for info on this, but struck out.
    I have an early 175 masher ser#1250 that I sifted out of my elephant graveyard. I did test it about 25 years ago when I stripped it out of a C-34 enclosure. The rear end of the driver was loose but still attached and working. Nothing has changed, but now I would like to repair this.
    Wax seals are gone. I have never cracked one of these open. I did not want to touch it before talking with more experienced people. My guess would be that this driver took a hit and the two screws holding the driver together were striped out. Any guidence would be most helpful
    Thank you
    Dan

  2. #2
    Senior Member jcrobso's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    1,099

    Maybe the screw are just loose.

    Carefully loosen the screws, they are short. there are two short wires that go to the diaphragm. You can lift the cap and slide it to one side. Look at the screws, are they stripped or are the holes stripped? DO NOT touch the diaphragm it's self. There is a strong magnetic filed in the area where the diaphragm is so be careful!!!
    Lets us know what you find out.

  3. #3
    Member Squarewave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Chico, Ca
    Posts
    47
    I loosened and removed the screws, they were both "tight" ( had to be broken loose) and threads looked good. They also feel tight when I run them back in, how ever I did not force them down at all. When I try to seperate the two peices, I "think" I can feel a VERY strong magnetic pull between them. It's either that, or something is hung up somewhere inside.

    The gap between the two parts is 1/8" or so on one side and tight 180 degrees around the other side. When I try to push or pull, that gap can travel 180 degrees to the other side or anywhere in between. Wherever it is, the gap remains roughly the same size.

    Is it possibile someone installed this 180 degrees off, and it is hanging up?

    I am also afraid that when I am pulling hard Ill get it apart, and then it will rapidly pull back together, hit on edge and damage the diaphram. How hard should I have to pull on these peices to get them seperated?

    Thank you
    Dan
    Last edited by Squarewave; 01-12-2010 at 03:02 PM. Reason: spelling

  4. #4
    Senior Member jcrobso's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    1,099

    There is picture in this post that shows the cover off.

    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...gm+replacement

    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...gm+replacement
    Scroll down, shows pictures of a drive disassemble.

    There can be two locating pins. The cove is made from aluminum so no magnetic pull. Try slipping a small screwdriver into the crack and slowly work it around the cover.

  5. #5
    Member Squarewave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Chico, Ca
    Posts
    47

    Ah HA!

    OK
    I now realize that my "moving gap" is between the front of the diaphram mounting plate and the front driver housing. My rear cover is stuck, may be orig. paint, or a little corrosion holding it on, but its quite tight. I'm going to carefully score around this seam with a razor knife and see if I can get it to budge. I will report back.
    DC

  6. #6
    RE: Member when? subwoof's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    fingerlakes region, NY
    Posts
    1,899

    pulled

    if you can move the top plate that easily, you have a very weak magnet and it needs to be recharged, period. a simple tap with the HANDLE of a hammer will give enough whack to break the seal loose.

    Post a picture or 2 of this "gap"

  7. #7
    Member Squarewave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Chico, Ca
    Posts
    47

    cover off!

    I decided to cleve the rear cover off with light tapping on a utitility knife blade..worked great! There is nothing easy about pulling the plate back from the front housing. I'm fairly strong, and it takes all I have to move it. Element looks teriffic from the rear

    Is it field pull only that holds the element mounting plate to the front housing?
    If so, it seems somthing is holding it apart (I would guess).

    If not, what else holds the plate to the housing and what might stop it from seating?
    I can't get this to seat properly.
    thanks,
    DC
    Last edited by Squarewave; 01-12-2010 at 09:56 PM. Reason: add pic

  8. #8
    Senior Member jcrobso's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    1,099

    How does the throat look?

    Has it shifted or it is cracked? If the driver was dropped the magnet could have shifted.

  9. #9
    Member Squarewave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Chico, Ca
    Posts
    47

    thats it

    25 years ago I pulled this driver out of a C-34 looking just like this,
    It's likely the whole enclosure was dropped before I bought it.


    Just popped the horn off, and It looks as if the magnet has shifted.
    Is this the end for 175 ser#1250, or is it repairable?
    many thanks
    DC

  10. #10
    Senior Member Steve Schell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    R.I.P.
    Posts
    1,458
    I have seen one instance where a 175 driver had a pot metal die cast throat insert that had grown into a different shape and pushed up the top plate. Junky pot metal sometimes does this; the piece will be physically larger with cracks on its surface. Later on JBL solved the problem with a plastic throat insert that does not deteriorate over time. Of course the plastic ones sometimes break when shocked, so solving one problem lead to another. In any event, the driver will have to be taken apart, parts replaced as necessary and then the magnet recharged.

  11. #11
    Member Squarewave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Chico, Ca
    Posts
    47
    Steve,
    Thanks for the insight. That could be the problem here, especially with the age of this driver. Do you think I could remove the element mounting plate myself? Still not sure how it is attached.

    Way back in my sound co days, I used to have my JBL stuff serviced @ LA speaker service in Hollywood (JBL authorized). Don't even know if they are still around, or are still good. Any idea?
    Thanks Again,
    Dan

  12. #12
    Senior Member SMKSoundPro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    1,019
    Dumb question to ask, but here goes nothing...

    Were the horn mounting bolts too long?

    I have dis-assembled a 2470 driver by inserting allthread into the (3) 1/4" bolt holes to push the magnet pot apart.

    (I then gave it to the admiral where he redrilled the top plate so that it could used with 2425 diaphragms.)

    scotty.
    One step above: "Two Tin Cans and a String!"
    Longtime Alaskan Low-Fi Guy - E=MC² ±3db

  13. #13
    Member Squarewave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Chico, Ca
    Posts
    47
    Scotty,
    Bolts seem ok, but I like your I idea for pressing it out.
    I think jcrobso and Steve have nailed it. Either the magnet shifted, or the pot metal throat insert has crystalized and exploded, or a little of both. I'm leaning towards the latter as this driver still works pretty well.

    It's looks like the repair won't be too cost prohibitive, but want to get it apart and see before I send it out... if possibile.
    Did you remove the diaphragm mounting plate before you did this pressing? Still wondering whats holding that plate on the mag pot,I don't see any screws, or clips.

    HP told me this in is just second down the LHF list for age/ser#, so I'm going to try saving it.

    Thanks!
    Dan

  14. #14
    Senior Member SMKSoundPro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    1,019
    No removing the plate. Just insert three long threaded 1/4"x20 bolts or allthread and it will push the driver apart into your hands. Careful not to pinch your fingers!

    (I am not responsible if you ruin your driver by following this post.)
    One step above: "Two Tin Cans and a String!"
    Longtime Alaskan Low-Fi Guy - E=MC² ±3db

  15. #15
    RE: Member when? subwoof's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    fingerlakes region, NY
    Posts
    1,899

    been there

    I have a black 175 with a magnet that couldn't hold a paperclip. Makes a great teaching tool. the throat needs to sit just right into the recess or it will pop up like yours.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Full Range Driver and Single Driver Speakers
    By Ducatista47 in forum General Audio Discussion
    Replies: 27
    Last Post: 06-21-2008, 09:04 AM
  2. emilar ek 175 driver
    By Steve Racey in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 12-29-2006, 06:49 AM
  3. JBL 175 comp. driver vs LE 175 What's the difference ???
    By PEVSIII in forum Lansing Product General Information
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 05-19-2005, 02:05 PM
  4. JBL 175 comp. driver vs LE 175 What's the difference ???
    By PEVSIII in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 05-11-2005, 12:21 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •