DIY mini everest or S2900

[vernb]

Well finally I got going. Had the drivers lying around for a looonnnggg time. Got the time and borrowed a friend of mine's wood work shop.
I started out by cheating (since this is my first DIY ever, I hope I am forgiven) and bought myself a very old pair of cabinets. They were in oak veneer and were pretty damaged. So I knocked out the baffles and sanded them down and gave them a walnut coloured tarnish.

[vernb]

The drivers you see are:
JBL H3100 horns
JBL 276ND
JBL LE-1400H and 1400PRO (I still haven't decided which one to use)
JBL 2405

[vernb]

I bought myself a kitchen table top from plantation teak, and cut out the holes. Now gluing is next

[vernb]

While waiting for the next step, I'll hurry to say thanks to especially 3LH members: Zilch, Mr Widget and Jan Daugaard for helping out and giving advices before the actual DIY phase.

[vernb]

Now I have taken a left over from the sink (walnut) and fixed on top of the baffle for the 14" woofers. I always liked the looks on "the pregnant penguin" (B&W DM6) and like the idea of sloped baffles, and this is wannabe slope....

[vernb]

As you can see, it is the 1400 PRO in there at the moment. The big blank space next to the H3100 horns are for reflex ports and the 2405 super tweeter ( I am not yet sure if I will be needing it??). I almost forgot to thank MatthiasA, who also contributed with his expertise.

[vernb]

just to show you the pregnancy. Now comes the real hard part for me. X-over time. I have most of the parts and the layout, but who knows what it will sound like.....

[macaroonie]

Nice work so far Vern they look tidy. Be careful with that block wood baffle and central heating, it will want to swell and contract,particularly if the atmosphere is warm and dry. You would be well advised to make sure that all of the exposed area of that wood has a good coating of oil at least or varnish. Inside the cabinet and out and all the cut edges where the drivers and horn are.
I installed a kitchen island worktop about two years ago in Beech wood and under it there is one of those small wine cooler fridges. Although there is a silvered barrier above it and ventilation gaps the blocks immediately above have shrunk and split a little. The fridge is one of those catalytic jobbies to boot and does not throw out a lot of heat.
Whatcha going to do about your x/o ?

[Krunchy]

Nice Kuchnia Mac! (appypolylogins, my polish is a bit crude).
Hi Vernb!, your project is coming along quite nicely Keep the pictures coming!

[vernb]

Here is a look at the oiled cabinet. Thanks for the advise. I would start crying and kick myself if the wood split because I had forgotten to oil them.

[vernb]

Here you see my x-over possibilities. I have an original JBL 4430 set and DIY S2600 x-over, halfway done. and a load of parts. Luckily the S3100 and S2600 share the layout. Only the mH and mF are different.

[vernb]

Since I am going to biamp, I was wondering about this:
Is it possible to just remove all resistors from the network and instead adjust the input going to each driver on the poweramps (they have attenuators)?
I really don't like the idea of dampening a driver if I don't have to. But I don't have the knowledge on x-over design to help my self.

[Robh3606]

Is it possible to just remove all resistors from the network and instead adjust the input going to each driver on the poweramps (they have attenuators)?

You have to understand what the resistor is doing there. Don't assume they are just there as pads only. The pads for the driver yes.

Rob

[loach71]

If you are biamping, why not use an active crossover?

[Mr. Widget]

If you are biamping, why not use an active crossover?

You still need a network in there to compensate for the falling response of the bi-radial horn.


Widget