hidden (or stealth) handles on a Sub Box

[lgvenable]

I've discussed handles on the sub box with a few friends and my cabinet maker.

Since the box I'm building (12 ft3 inside volume) will be heavy @~ 150 lbs or more, I'd really like to have handles on it, but I don't want to see them.

I'm going to walnut veneer the entire box, so natch; I did not want to cut big holes for standard handles in the box side. We came up with the idea of using capture nuts or inserts built into the speaker side (or epoxied in), which would end up being flush with the box side face. The handles could then be screwed in and used when needed; however a plug with a veneer face could be made to hide the holes most of the time.

I wanted to have the sub styling match my L100T's so, I didn't necessarily want big black handles in the side, and this seems like the only alternative to those; since the box would be so heavy; and would eventually have to be moved.

A search of the forum did not really turn up anyone trying to make hidden handles, so I thought I'd ask if anyone had done something like this for their sub box, or had a better idea.

Thanks,
larry

[Hoerninger]

Since the box I'm building (12 ft3 inside volume) will be heavy @~ 150 lbs or more, I'd really like to have handles on it, but I don't want to see them.

With this weight you will be happy to have some Marshall-grips (metal) at the box. They have some depth so it is not wise to mount them afterwards. May be you find a construction that you can hide the Marshalls with a veneered plate.

Just my 2 cents.
____________
Peter

[subwoof]

Did something similar many years ago for a theater rig.

Ended up installing 6 T-nuts ( 1/4-20 ) on each cabinet side and used a sheet of plywood with grooves cut out to seal them from the inside ( like a cap ). This was done so they didn't get any air pressure against them.

The handles were surface mounted types with the mounting holes drilled out.

The bolts were 1/4-20 flat heads that sat in countersunk recesses. The insides of the recesses were colored with a marker and the bolt heads were spray painted with an auto touch up paint that was similar to the (stained dark) red oak.

It's important to use a GOOD countersink with a drill press to make them neat and identical.

sub

[macaroonie]

Why dont you put flight case type handles on the spare space on the baffle and on the back ?http://www.adamhall.com/uk/AH_K--Fli...2__k--25__f--1

[KromeDome]

I've discussed handles on the sub box with a few friends and my cabinet maker.

Since the box I'm building (12 ft3 inside volume) will be heavy @~ 150 lbs or more, I'd really like to have handles on it, but I don't want to see them.

I'm going to walnut veneer the entire box, so natch; I did not want to cut big holes for standard handles in the box side. We came up with the idea of using capture nuts or inserts built into the speaker side (or epoxied in), which would end up being flush with the box side face. The handles could then be screwed in and used when needed; however a plug with a veneer face could be made to hide the holes most of the time.

I wanted to have the sub styling match my L100T's so, I didn't necessarily want big black handles in the side, and this seems like the only alternative to those; since the box would be so heavy; and would eventually have to be moved.

A search of the forum did not really turn up anyone trying to make hidden handles, so I thought I'd ask if anyone had done something like this for their sub box, or had a better idea.

Thanks,
larry

Years ago, I built a large sub for a pair of L80t's that I had at the time, with the same goals and concerns. What I ended up doing was building long recessed pockets - not on the sides, rather one on the front hidden behind the grille, and one on the back. I veneered the front pocket, and it came out pretty decent.

[lgvenable]

Thanks for the input, one of the alternative ideas I had was to place this type handle on the bottom edges,

where they are minimized from view, with one on each edge; or to use a heavy duty spring loaded flight case handle, again on the bottom out of the line of sight.

Thanks for the ideas, as I'm doing the 2nd design pass today. Maybe a bud of mine can do the final in solidworks at work, or autocad.

[Baron030]

Hi Larry

Here is a link to some unobtrusive handles that I used in my own project:
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...ad.php?t=11664 (see postings #4 & #5)

Basically, I cut an opening in the back of the enclosure, just large enough for my hand. Then I rounded the edges with a 3/8" round-over router bit. And what can not be seen in any of the photos is that the inside top edge of the opening has been rounded over as well. This makes for a smooth rounded handle gripping surface. Finally, I built a small box on the inside of the enclosure to seal up these handle opening. The inside box includes just enough additional space for my fingers to slide up into. Pictures of these inside boxes are visible in the thread’s #8 posting, near the up of the back panel.

Baron030

[Jakob]

I'm doing like this: I place the vents (usually 3 to an 18" woofer) on the back of the cabinet, make the first 6 inches of them out of solid wood with a considerable thickness and an inch-thick lip in the outer end. I then secure them to the cabinet from the outside with glue and some screws, with the thick lip flush to the cabinet. I also reinforces the cabinet on the inside around the vent holes to support the first inches of the vent. Then, when I want to move the box, I always take out the driver. In that way I have a big hole on the front and three on the back I can use to lift the cabinet in. I have never had a cabinet with that kind of weight (150lb) (I think mine is about 100) but so far I have moved my boxes a lot of times and so far, this solution works.

ps: using square vent holes is a lot easier when doing things like this!

Good luck:

Jakob