JBL 4401s

[Zilch]

That looks good.

I think I'd move the woofer up a bit closer to the horn. You want about 3/4" between them. The top of the horn should be 1" - 1.5" down from the bottom edge of your moulding.

Moving the woofer up a bit will also allow more room at the bottom corners for a pair of ports if you want/need to add them later for a different woofer.

[With ported 2206H, these'd make kick-ass party speakers.... ]

[alexkerhead]

Thanks zilch.
Here it is modified with the drivers closer together.

[Zilch]

Better, but maybe too close together now.

Your horn proportions look wrong. 12" x 6.5"

I measure woofer outside diameter as 12.1875"

Baffle cutout is 11.0625"

Check those diameters before cutting, tho.

The drawing's not precise, I recognize. You know the layout parameters now....

[alexkerhead]

Better, but maybe too close together now.

The drawing's not precise, I recognize. You know the layout parameters now....

Tommorrow I will draw by hand the correct inch scale model on paper and figure out how much wood I am going to need.

So far this has been a lot of fun, and I think the fun will increase once I get in the shop and start building these things.
My table saw is burned up, so I will have to cut them elsewhere, so accuracy in cutting is a must.
I think 2x 4'x8' sheets of birch should do it.

[Zilch]

1, 2) Not a lotta room on my baffles, but they'll fit nicely.

3) Widget's 12" dogbone-horn monitors.

[Mr. Widget]

Zilch, those dog bones are from Meyer Sound... they are a 1.5" modified radial horn... you might grab one and give it a try in your 1.5" trials. I believe they are around $125 ea. from Meyer.

Widget

[Zilch]

I can't see Widget's pic on my monitor, so I brightened it up for those in the same circumstance.

What does this have to do with 4401s?

Me and Alex are doing a top-secret transcontinental undercover DIY incognito here. If it's a total bust, all posts not directly relating to 4401s will self-destruct, and we will disavow any knowledge of this project!

[NOW, he's gonna want Sub1500s to go WITH! Just need to stack those, Mr. Widget, and you'll maybe HAVE something there.... ]

[Mr. Widget]

On my monitor it is seriously washed out now... the original is dark to be sure... a black speaker against a navy blue curtain and all... but I think your monitor is out of calibration, or perhaps you are in a very bright room.


Widget

[alexkerhead]

Yes, zilch and I are trying to achieve greatness with little money.

I went and looked at some cabinet quality birch today and home depot has it in stock.
$39.99/sheet(4'x8')
They will even make all the cuts I want for free..
I wont be able to start until tuesday, but I think this will be a fun project.

[Zilch]

I've got two viable crossover options working so far, one of them "quasi-three-way." That means separate MF and HF adjustments with the single HF driver.

Using L40s as a test platform right now:

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...152#post132152

Johnaec's finishing up my baffles today, so I may be able to do some measurements on the complete system soon.

BB6P says we'll get 8 Hz more (lower) usable bass extension (orchid) than these already fine L40s are producing (black).

[alexkerhead]

That is some ridiculously low bass response!

I hate to ask, but what are the capacitor and resistor values for the crossover?

I will need to order caps and resistors if necessary.

[Zilch]

Throbbing quarterpanel megabass, actually.

Getting everything sealed was kinda labor intensive. Used lots of closed-cell neoprene weather strip to seal the baffle, back, and drivers. Horn was the toughest; back side of the flange is not solid.

I'll load the second one and get measurements tomorrow. Gotta get it up off the floor for that.

I did confirm Fc of 41 Hz, exactly what BB6P says it should be, just to be sure I got it sealed well.

The curve above is simulated with no crossover. It'll play like that as sub for your 4401s until we get everything else worked out.

That rat's nest on top is one of the crossovers I'm trying with it.

Thank you, Johnaec!! Beautiful job on the perfect-fit baffles.

[Gonna make you start signing this stuff..... ]

[macaroonie]

Try using a non setting ' Frame Sealant ' for those awkward jobs like the horn flange. Comes in a squirty tube but is NOT silicone and is NOT caulk. Most builders merchants should carry it. Turpentine for cleanup.

[alexkerhead]

I cannot wait to get started on mine!

[johnaec]

They look good, Zilch!

I think the codeine I was taking for my back pain when I was over filtered my hearing too much to comment reliably on your other systems using the 2452 drivers when I was over - I'll have to give another listen again sometime...

John