Yeah, those be 1" to 2" throat adapters, not horns....
Yeah, those be 1" to 2" throat adapters, not horns....
So, they are like totally useless for my project?Originally Posted by Zilch
Well, useless as horns, yes.
Not to worry. You can get into EXCELLENT JBL horns for $10 apiece.
Trust the Zilchster on this one:
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...070#post123070
Draw the cabinet around that woofer and horn in your mind.
The horn is 12" W x 6.5" H....
Where do I get me some?
Like this?
Yes. You've got the idea, now. Scoot the woofer up closer to the horn, maybe 3/4" between them as in my photo, and then both of them up toward the top of the box a bit. The woofer will be playing midrange; for floorstanding, the drivers should be biased toward the top. Legs are gonna help some with that part, if used.
Send me a PM if you want me to order you a pair of the horns.
Refine the dimensions of a design for a 3 cuft. internal volume box incorporating that horn and the L100 woofer according to your desires.
$20 is not a huge investment to have them in hand, but I don't think you should further invest in compression drivers or crossovers until we both complete the boxes and see if you like how they work with the woofers.
The compression drivers I will recommend will be ~$125 apiece, and the crossovers, I don't know yet....
I've gotta go now and send Johnaec the final dimensions for my baffles....
Looks like I found something to spend holiday cash on(compression drivers)
I will send you a PM.
Thanks a ton zilch!
Our cabinets are decidedly "Old School."
Here they are in the 1952 catalog:
http://www.lansingheritage.org/image...1952/page1.jpg
Check out the dimensions there.
[Looks like their size stayed the same for 54 years....]
Our cabinets are decidedly "Old School."
Here they are in the 1952 catalog:
http://www.lansingheritage.org/image...1952/page1.jpg
Check out the dimensions there.
[Looks like their size stayed the same for 54 years....
Add some peg legs and it becomes 60s style.
The dimensioned plans are in the LH Library, actually, including the '50s legs:
http://www.lansingheritage.org/html/...ns/c35-c39.htm
http://www.lansingheritage.org/image...-c39/page2.jpg
The front moulding on mine uses a 3/4" inch strip rather than the 1/2" shown there, for a slightly "bolder" look.
Our baffles are different, of course....
Thanks for the reference!The dimensioned plans are in the LH Library, actually, including the '50s legs:
http://www.lansingheritage.org/html/...ns/c35-c39.htm
http://www.lansingheritage.org/image...-c39/page2.jpg
The front moulding on mine uses a 3/4" inch strip rather than the 1/2" shown there, for a "bolder" look.
Our baffles are different, of course....
I am going to model mine off the model 38 Lo Boy design. I know the wider approach make driver mirroring mroe difficult, but come on, that model 38 looks really nice.
Now I need to make plans!
Back to the original subject of this thread... was there a significant difference between the various Pioneer, Marantz etc. receivers? I have never bothered to compare more than one or two, but I always felt that most of the '70s era Japanese receivers sounded pretty much the same. At this point in history, some or most of the differences you heard could be due to bias drift and other time related issues.
A decent amp and preamp will usually sound significantly better... the more revealing the speakers, the greater the improvement.
That tweeter in the L100 isn't particularly stellar, so that is no surprise.
Widget
I adjusted the DC offset and bias for all the units and the over 30wpc receivers I recapped.
Pioneers have great high frequency articulation.
Marantz is very warm, makes you feel comfy when you listen.
Sherwood sounds almost like a tube amp.
Each receiver's pre amp and amplification sections reproduce the sound quite differently.
If you get a chance, try it out, old receivers have a very old-timey sound new stuff cannot offer, which makes the older speakers I use sound more like they were intended.
The speakers Zilch is helping me with will most likely be powered by a 40wpc tube amp I am working on.
Member John W made a beautiful "Mini" version of that one recently:
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...ad.php?t=12545
I'd be makin' the horizontal version, too, BUT there's other critical design considerations, most importantly related to using a horn:
1) Most rectangular horns intentionally have wider dispersion patterns for the horizontal than the vertical. The $10 JBL one we're using is 90° H x 50° V, as example. You don't want the wider dispersion to be the vertical; the horizontal will be "beamy," and will not match the dispersion of the woofer. This matters.
2) There ARE rectangular horns by other manufacturers with patterns suitable for vertical mounting, typically used in stage monitors. They're more like $100 apiece, tho, and do not have the excellent performance of the Progressive Transition waveguide we're using. It was developed using finite element analysis. We don't want to abandon it. Here's the white paper:
http://www.jblpro.com/ae/pdf/PT_WaveGuide.pdf
3) Ideally, the axis of the HF driver should be at listening height, with the others proximal for a coherent blend of sources. The vertical configurations gets us closer to that, whereas the "Lowboy" configuration sets it too low, even if a symmetrical dispersion (round, for example) horn is used. Thus, it's only suited to elevated mounting as a bookshelf speaker, unless an asymmetric horn is used to "aim" the axis upward. Those are available, yes, but once again, significantly more expensive. Another option is a symmetrical horn on a tilted baffle, but there's other compromises with that approach, as well.
There are compromises in all of this, but remember that the bottom-line objective is for the system to sound its best, and the factors I have outlined above are just as significant, if not more so, as the earlier choice between 6.35 and 3.0 cuft of cabinet volume.
Appreciate that designing a system such as this is MUCH more than throwing drivers and a horn in a box if the result is going to sound good....
I understand.
I will modify my plans I have made, really all I have todo is flip the boxes 90 degrees and it will be correct.
Here is the rough drawing of what I had in mind for a vertical speaker.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote