I used the standard foam 10" units when I did mine years ago. Same for the 8" in the L46. They seemed to work just fine.
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I used the standard foam 10" units when I did mine years ago. Same for the 8" in the L46. They seemed to work just fine.
To rule out a wiring issue run a pair of jumpers directly from the board to a tweeter to see if it works. Make sure nothing is mis-wired on that board, they are all color coded.
https://www.acoustimac.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=22&category_id=5&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=29
The L45 Flair is a 2-way. https://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Technical%20Sheet/L45%20Flair%20ts.pdf The L45A & L45B Flair use a LE5-5 mid. ...
My mistake, I was thinking this was about the 880, not 800. Yes the 1000 and 800 use the same compression drivers. And no, they are not up to the standard set by the 1400.
As you must be aware, the 800 has the same drivers as 1400. In my 7.1 system the 800 has a VERY similar voice to the 1400s, test tones sound identical. Using the 800 as a main speaker would present...
Still not allowing anyone to register as a new member.
Duh, I should have mentioned the PC600, probably the best match for your XPLs, and used units can sometimes be found in the $500 range.
The EC35 is a pretty cheaply made unit. Depending on the configuration of your front stage, I'd suggest you at least try out the "phantom center" approach. Most pre/pro units offer such a setting. ...
Cast aluminum? Some possibility of fracture. Generous application of heat might help as long as you don't start melting plastic bits.
When people straighten alloy wheels they usually just bang on...
I'm surprised if that PDF isn't also lodged around the here somewhere. If its not it should be, I see Greg Timber's signature on it.
FWIW a search for the part number returns this: https://diagramas.diagramasde.com/audio/250TIBQ%20CLASSICS.pdf
Here's a few.
91144
91145
91146
FWIW, that's not a "dust cap", its the actual dome of the tweeter. Possible you're looking at normal discoloration of of the so-called aluminum coating on the dome. OR you're looking at the dacron...
I would caution against this for a couple reasons. 1st, shipping an amp has its own set of risks. 2nd, its my feeling that a competent repair person would ask for the entire sub, not just the plate...
Those are aluminum, so wrinkles are usually permanent. But you can pull most dents out with a piece of tape.
Here you go:
89894
89895
89896
89897
The ones I have, one from a PT800, and one from a S38, both say 335663-001, which is all I can tell you. In that picture, only the mounting strap is visible, the actual driver is underneath. You take...
I'd doubt there's much of any ferrous metal in the screws or washers. Anyways I think I still have a spare tweet lurking around here somewhere that came from an S38.
My recollection is that there are 2 versions, but the only difference is in the way they mount into the waveguide. With a little finesse they should be interchangeable. Maybe someone else will chime...
Nothing against them, they are fantastic. But a decent pair of smaller speakers with a good sub will do pretty well too. OTOH, how much are you going to spend buying and selling speakers looking for...
Given the prices being asked for decent quality pairs of 250ti, there's a good argument that your money might be better spent on something newer. Like any big-assed 4-way JBL, the 250 demands careful...
If anyone is looking for parts or complete speakers, here's a deal, (no affliation):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/274824814053?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
2x PT800...
You won't find a better example of well balanced sound till you get to the models of the 90's in the "L series", or some of the 44xx pro models. The L112 can make your ears bleed and sound fantastic...
Just to keep you on your toes, they made quite a few variations of that crossover board and attachments over the years for the L96, L112 and L150A. Some plastic, some Masonite, some screws and some...