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I need to badly clean the contacts on the 3 position switch of my 3120s. Problem is, I don't know how to get it apart. I tried both English and Metric allen wrenches on the setscrew in the knob to no avail. The case seems to be riveted on. Do I have to drill through the rivets to get in there?
Any hints would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Those units are an engineering marvel - and you can take that any way you want! I have a pair I used to use some years ago and they function reasonably well once you get them fixed up. In any case, the set screw is 1/16" allen wrench. And, you guessed it, you gotta drill out those alum. rivets and then replace with short sheet metal screws to reassemble. Make sure they are short because they can contact the internal wiring, etc. if too long - you'll see what I mean once you get in there. It's very tight in there as you'll see. All the caps and coils are sumerged in a gooey tar-like material so you have to work with the lid hanging from the can. Delightful. Easy does it.Quote:
Originally Posted by pgena
My experience with that stuff is that it is beeswax and will melt right out with a little heat and a suitable container to let it run into.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mannermusic
Same thing we said back in 2011 when you went into that crossover - beeswax, double boiler ...Quote:
Originally Posted by pgena
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...read.php?31719
It's up to him but I'm assuming (hoping!) he can get in there with his dentist tools and clean those contacts (that's all he was concerned about in the original post). I never "drain the gue" unless I have to R&R one of the components in the can. One time I got desperate and removed and re-round the little inductor. Not easy or recommended. But, usually you can do most anything in the lid without major surgery via the dangle technique - KISS. One last suggestion: while in there take a Phillips and tighten those little post screws from the back side. In my experience they usually come loose with age and cause all manner of noise/intermittent problems - similar to a bad switch, for example! In fact, I'd check that first. MikeQuote:
Originally Posted by 4343
Thanks to all for the responses. Indeed, I was not concerned about the wax, as hjames points out we went there in 2011 (BTW, on the N500s, there was enough room for me to cut the wires to the old caps and rewire new ones. Now I biamp my Paragon anyway........).
I'll get out my drill and 1/16' allen wrench and get to work. Hopefully I'll be able to get clean sound again out of my C37s!