Dude...? wrong forum me thinks. ;)Quote:
pervious photo
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Dude...? wrong forum me thinks. ;)Quote:
pervious photo
Dough! :homer:
I know I make miss steaks in my last posting. It's all because I used special soft ware witch checks yore spelling. It is mower or lass a weigh too verify. However is cannot correct arrows inn punctuation ore usage: an it will not fined words which are miss used butt spelled rite. Four example; a paragraph could have mini flaws but wood bee past by the spell checker. And it won’t catch the sentence fragment which you. Their fore, the massage is that proofreading is not eliminated, it is still berry muck reek wired.
Baron 030 :blink:
Baron 030,
Thanks, that did clear everything up. I could not see the second resistor wire (blue arrow) in the photo -- it looked like a shadow of the wire indicated by the red arrow to me. Plus the wire indicated by the red arrow looked a little like a twisted pair. Thanks again for taking the time for such a detailed explanation.
Walt
good info... had to rib you at least a little. :D
Hello everyone, I'm in the process of building these x-overs for a pair of 030s that I bought. I'm a bit of a newbie at reading schematics and am not sure I have gotten all the connections right. I have, by the way, I looked at all the pictures of other people's builds, and they have been a big help.
I'm hoping that Baron or anyone else familiar with these crossovers would look at my pictures and tell me if I am on the right track.
Attachment 61091Attachment 61092Attachment 61093.
I realize this is an old thread, but it seems to be becoming a useful resource these rebuilds, if mods think this should be a new thread just let me know.
Edit: I can't seem to figure out how to rotate the pics, anyone have a hint?
Hi
One picture can say a thousand words. So, I used Microsoft Paint modify one of your pics.
Hope this helps.
Attachment 61095
Baron030:)
Wow Baron, thanks so much. I have attempted to implement your fixes, would you have another look and tell me if I'm getting close? I have included a pic of the l-pad diagram, because in a bit confused by that as well. (have you noticed a theme here?)
Attachment 61104Attachment 61105Attachment 61106
Attachment 61103
Also, I would like to order some "audiophile approved" hookup wire. I don't want to open a pandora's box (if possible), but I'm wondering about gauges and stranded vs solid. Does anyone have any advice?
Attachment 61107
For speaker wire I use 12-gauge 2 conductor landscape lighting cable.
You can get about 100 feet of it for about $60.00.
So, it's not overly expensive.
Baron030:)
Thank you Baron!
I've got the x-over working now and it sounds great, really a huge improvement. I'm going to swap some film caps in to see if things improve even more.
Hi Baron!
I read with interest your topic about the upgrade. Thanks.
I also want to upgrade the N2400 crossovers in my speakers made from the 030 set with C40 cases. Tell me please, when you changed the inductor in the low-pass filter, did you measure the DC resistance of the coil? I read on other crossover upgrade forums that if the resistance of the old coil is greater than the new one, then when replacing the coil with a new one, it is necessary to compensate for the difference by installing the resistance in series with the coil. Or in the case of the H2400, the lower the resistance of the inductor, the better, and you did not compensate for the difference in the resistance of the coils?It is now possible to buy inductance with a resistance less than 0.1 ohm with an air core.
Thanks in advance for your opinion.
Yes, I did try to measure the DCR value of the stock coils. But, I could not get an accurate reading even with two coils wired in series.
My digital ohm meter could read a resistance value that low.
Wow, you are way over thinking this. The N2400 is a very simple crossover. The DCR value of the coil is not at all critical.
Generally, any DCR value under 1/2 ohm is suitable for most crossover designs.
The only time the DCR value becomes critical is when it is used in a crossover design that has resonant components like a series RLC or parallel RLC circuit.
Changing the DCR value in a RLC resonator circuit changes the Q factor of the filter.
The N2400 does not have resonator components in its design. So the DCR value is not critical.
So, don’t add any resistors is series with the coil.
The only reason why I upgraded the coil in the N2400 is that it’s very old design, probably dating back to the 1950s.
Back then a really powerful HIFI amp had a pair 6BQ5 output tubes and put out a thundering 15 watts.
So, the stock coils were not rated for high power levels.
At the time, I updated my crossovers, I was using a crown K1 power amp (350 watts).
The higher power level would push the stock iron core coils into saturation and increased the distortion.
The Erse I-core coils are rated for 250 watts and sounded cleaner.
Baron030:)
Thanks for the info, Baron.
I have a LCR meter with an accuracy of 0.01 ohm (Mastech 5308). Measuring the coil is not a problem, but since in the case of the N2400 this is not necessary, then I will do it just for information.
I also want to use more expensive capacitors than Solen in the part of the HF filter, but the manufacturers of such capacitors do not have models with a capacity of 6uf or 3uf (to install a pair), usually there are 2.7uf and 3.3uf. What do you think for HF, I can use slightly different capacitors in pairs to get 6uf? Or is it better to use one 5.6uf capacitor, for example, plus 0.47uf to it?
Now I need to buy an inexpensive pair of N2400 for the experiment, since I want to leave my N2400s in their original form.
What do the little x's and the dotted lines mean in this schematic? I know how to read a schematic but this one confuses me.