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toddalin
01-25-2006, 11:31 AM
Those who have following my saga know that I was going to build new crossovers for my 2235/LE175-HL91/075s in L200 cabinets. The cabinets currently include N1200s and N8000s from when they had 130As and I wanted better tune the crossovers to the new woofers.

The initial intent was to construct the N200B crossover used in the L200B using better quality parts while keeping costs down. (Yeah right, total costs will end up about $120 each.) This would replace the N1200 and the N8000 would be retained for $$$ reasons and to fill the existing holes in the cabinets. I then resolved that it made little sense to use quality parts in the 2-way just to subsequently pass the signal through the inferior parts of the 25-30+ year old N8000. The project was escaladed to a 3-way design that would include the high pass element.

Prior to having the N8000s in these cabinets, I had N7000s. I actually prefered these with the LE175s that don't have quite the top end of the LE85 used in the L200s. As long as I was making this a 3-way, I could select any frequency I choose keeping the high pass between about 7,000-8,000 Hz.

The only difference between the N7000 and N8000 is the size of the chokes. N7000s use a 0.6 mH choke while the N8000 uses a 0.3 mH choke. All caps are the same. So selecting the frequency was just a matter of selecting the proper value choke. I initially wanted to use a 0.4 mH, ERSE reducing the frequency to about 7,670 Hz but these were out of stock as was my next selection, 0.33 mH. I settled on the 0.5 mH as they PE had them available. I estimate this to put the high pass at about 7,350 Hz, which may actually be the better choice with the LE175s.

The board was made compact and is to be attached to the gutted N8000 "can." This will allow me to install the boards through the existing openings and retain a stock appearence. The horn and tweeter outputs on the "can" will retain their existing layout. The existing "input" to the can will become the output for the woofer. This would allow me to disconnect the drivers for bi-amping or ??? if ever desired. To make installation easier, the input to the crossover comes from an input terminal cup, located at the bottom back of the speaker (already in place), to a gold RCA plug on the board. This will allow me to simply plug in the board, slide the assembly in place, and attach the speaker wires as usual.

Because the assembly needs to fit through the existing 4-1/8" wide hole in the back of the cabinet, size, and the placement of components becomes critical. A circuit board had to be cut down to size and several arrangements were comtemplated before the final product you see here. Coils were arranged to best take advantage of the space while minimizing cross talk.

All caps are Solen and include Theta 0.01 by-pass caps. All resistors are Mills and all coils are ERSE. The by-pass caps and resistors are not readily visible as they are tucked under the larger components. The existing tweeter L-pad on the "cans" will be retained so are not shown here. The large coil is held to the board using nylon screws/nuts and the board will be attached to the "can" using brass screws/hardware.

I'll try some initial testing on this one prior to constructing the other two (one for the center channel).
http://www.largescaleonline.com/eimages/lsolpics/Team_Member_Pics/toddalin/Crossover1.jpg

http://www.largescaleonline.com/eimages/lsolpics/Team_Member_Pics/toddalin/Crossover2.jpg

spkrman57
01-25-2006, 12:40 PM
I may be off base, but for some of the hi-pass circuits would not smaller guage wire with a higher DCR be more beneficial?

I only say that with past reading of posts and Giskard/Lancer posting about the importance of using the correct DCR for the best results.

I am not being critical, I just don't know and will be putting together a system in the future with E-130/GP 399(Altec 288 clone) and 075 and the crossover circuit will be one I will have to deal with also.

If I am off-base with this comment please let me know, my feeleings will not be hurt!:p

Ron

toddalin
01-25-2006, 01:20 PM
You're not off-base and it is a concern.

While hard to see in the picture, with the exception of the big coil (ERSE Super-Q 16 gauge) the others are all Perfect Layer 18 gauge. Zilch measured a dcr of 0.5 for the 0.8 mH choke in the N200B, and the ERSE Perfect Layer value is 0.42 ohm, so is not too far off.

The 0.5 mH coils in the Perfect Layer line that I used have a dcr 0.32 ohm. PE's "cheap" line of chokes have a dcr of 0.50 for 0.5 mH, and extrapolating from Zilch measurements, I would imagine that the ones used by JBL would be slightly lower or about 0.40-0.45 ohm. But recognize that as the mH go down, so does the dcr and the dcr of the 0.6 mH in the N7000 would extrapolate out to about 0.45 ohm. N8000s 0.3 mH ckoke would be on the order of 0.25 ohm as extrapolated from the values measured by Zilch on his N200B crossovers. The 0.50 mH values I used (dcr of 0.32 ohm) falls within this range.

Time and testing will tell.



I may be off base, but for some of the hi-pass circuits would not smaller guage wire with a higher DCR be more beneficial?

I only say that with past reading of posts and Giskard/Lancer posting about the importance of using the correct DCR for the best results.

I am not being critical, I just don't know and will be putting together a system in the future with E-130/GP 399(Altec 288 clone) and 075 and the crossover circuit will be one I will have to deal with also.

If I am off-base with this comment please let me know, my feeleings will not be hurt!:p

Ron

spkrman57
01-25-2006, 01:51 PM
I will be following this as my future project will be similar and I will take note of your progress.


Not too many of us want to play with the older vintage type systems. They don't compare to the newer modern speaker systems out there today.

By they are fun without the hassle of having to be "totally perfect"!

:applaud: :applaud: :applaud:

Ron

Zilch
01-25-2006, 03:17 PM
Heh. These WILL be "totally perfect."

You just wait! :p

toddalin
01-26-2006, 11:42 AM
I connected the new crossover last night..., sort of. The crossover was connected to the output of the amp and the horn and tweeter were disconnected from the N8000 and connected to the new crossover. Unforetunately, this arrangement had the horn going through the crossover's 16 ohm L-pad as well as the existing 8-ohm L-pad installed the cabinet. The tweeter was connected correctly. The new crossover's output that feeds the woofer was tied to the speaker input so after going through the new crossover, then went through the low pass on the N1200. This was the only way to connect and try it without opening up the speaker cabinet and yanking the old crossovers yet.

The tweeter and horn were definitely "crispier" with better definition and articulation even though the horn went through two L-pads. This could be (is?) due to the better components, but the tweeter could also sound crispier because it is now crossed over a little lower and gets a hotter signal.

Hard to really tell what the woofer's doing, other than it is definately crossed over lower, because the signal is still passing through the old N1200 choke. Even so, it's nice to know that I got everything wired correctly and it works.;)

Zilch
01-26-2006, 02:06 PM
I have previously reported the noticeable "crispness" of Theta-bypassed metallized polypropylene caps with compression drivers.

That's with Daytons; perhaps the same with Solens.

I thought Solens didn't need bypassing. Or is that just "Fast Cap?" :hmm:

toddalin
01-26-2006, 02:59 PM
I have previously reported the noticeable "crispness" of Theta-bypassed metallized polypropylene caps with compression drivers.

That's with Daytons; perhaps the same with Solens.

I thought Solens didn't need bypassing. Or is that just "Fast Cap?" :hmm:

No idea..., couldn't hoit.

toddalin
01-27-2006, 05:10 PM
Well, it would seem that I've run out of parts, so I guess the three crossovers are done. :D The next step is to remove and gut the existing cans and strap these babies to the backs. I've already made the mounts and obtained the brass mounting hardware.http://www.largescaleonline.com/eimages/lsolpics/Team_Member_Pics/toddalin/Crossover3.jpg

intotubes
01-28-2006, 06:46 PM
Nice looking crossovers. Real heavy duty.

I want to make new ones to replace my N800-F but I'm not sure how the attenuator is wired in. I can't tell from your pics, how is yours wired up, if you don't mind me asking?

TIA
Mark

toddalin
01-28-2006, 07:34 PM
Nice looking crossovers. Real heavy duty.

I want to make new ones to replace my N800-F but I'm not sure how the attenuator is wired in. I can't tell from your pics, how is yours wired up, if you don't mind me asking?

TIA
Mark

Follow the link to the schematic. The L-pads are wired to the hot and ground and the speaker tap comes off the center. (It was not included when the photo was taken.) The other speaker lead is connected to ground. Later improvements (not shown in the schematic but found on Zilch's crossover and in subsequent publications) call for a 20 ohm, 10 watt resistor wireed in parallel with the horn and tweeter and to save space on the board, I just attached these directly to the L-pads.

http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Technical%20Sheet/L200B%20ts.pdf

Zilch
02-21-2006, 02:09 AM
Project continues here:

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=9134

Project begins here:

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=8507