JBL M2 - DIY clone

[Odd]

JBL M2 - DIY clone

New nice DIY project in Norway.
Sorry for all the text in Norwegian, but many nice pictures and a lot of useful information collected for someone who wants to build M2.
https://www.hifisentralen.no/forumet/threads/jbl-m2-diy-clone.108039/

[Mr. Widget]

Wow a nice and thorough exploration. It makes the project a virtual step by step project.

I wonder if JBL will dry up the drivers and parts supply with so many people building clones worldwide? Hopefully not.


Widget

[mattking52]

Incredibly cool and inspiring - thanks for sharing.

Google Translate really works a treat these days; it seems like it even does a good job of translating some Norwegian slang/idioms to English.

I wonder if the OP in that thread will consider selling the CAD files/CNC info to interested parties... I'm sure there would be plenty of interested buyers!

[sebackman]

Really nice. Lots of effort going in to those cabinets. Always inspiring to see nice builds. I think I prefer the veneer version for domestic use.

//Rob

[mattking52]

I think I prefer the veneer version for domestic use.

//Rob

Same here - by a large margin.

[mattking52]

I like the clean, simple look of the two tone black + wood veneer from the hifisentralen.no thread above better, but here's another cool example of a DIY M2 I saw online somewhere that was a bit more of an homage to the vintage studio monitors we all love, with blue baffle and figural walnut veneer.

[jmpsmash]

They look lovely. And great details in the build thread.

2216ND for ~USD420 is a bargain

[turnitdown]

MMS 135, Fs 36. Better bargains in vintage.

[Robh3606]

MMS 135, Fs 36. Better bargains in vintage.

Curious what drivers?

Rob :)

[Robh3606]

Thanks for posting! Nice looking speakers! Too bad there is not a stock vernier option!

Rob :)

[pos]

MMS 135, Fs 36. Better bargains in vintage.
These numbers alone don't mean much.
This driver is leaps and bounds ahead of vintage JBL woofers in every possible aspect.

Well, maybe it would not do as great a job as a door stopper compare to say a 2235H, given its weight, but that is pretty much it (and this would have to be tested).

[Mr. Widget]

These numbers alone don't mean much.
This driver is leaps and bounds ahead of vintage JBL woofers in every possible aspect.+1


Well, maybe it would not do as great a job as a door stopper compare to say a 2235H, given its weight, but that is pretty much it (and this would have to be tested). :applaud: :rotfl: :applaud:


Widget

[turnitdown]

+1 :applaud: :rotfl: :applaud:WidgetWhat are the objective improvements over a, for instance, LE14H-1 or your doorstop example 2235H? Inquiring, edification starved minds, want to know.

[Robh3606]

What are the objective improvements over a, for instance, LE14H-1 or your doorstop example 2235H? Inquiring, edification starved minds, want to know.


Well considering what a pair of either 2235's or Le-14H-1 will cost you the new drivers are a good deal. The rest of it see for yourself.

Rob :)

[pos]

One obvious advantage is that it is new, so you don't have to worry about bad surrounds (ever again), wrongly installed kits, etc.

Compared to a 2235 it is objectively better on excursion (very silent), will have less intermodulation (meaning it will be much better at playing both LF and MF at the same time), and is less subject to power compression thanks to its TCR VC.
Looking at the different white papers, the compression curve of a 4367 appears quite similar to that of a 4435 equipped with *two* 2234. This is quite a feat although it is maybe not a fair comparison given these measurements have been taken decades apart, so conditions might vary...

One thing to consider though is its rising response, which requires a specific passive network or active EQ to handle. The "-1" variant is easier to deal with in this regard.
It is clearly not a drop-in replacement for any of the vintage drivers, which were meant to be flat out of the box (in the box :D)

[sebackman]

-Agree with POS and Widget. When starting new there is really no competition between the vintage stuff and the newer 2216 and alike. And no meaningful price difference either compared to the overall build cost.

For pure LF (<200Hz) you can absolutely use vintage units, like a 2235, but to meet a driver/horn (>700Hz) you either need to go 3-way or use a modern woofer like 2216. I run 2216Nd-1 ported to 27Hz in my DSP 4367M clones and they are just awesome.

If you use subs there are a few more alternatives.

Have a nice weekend

//Robert

[turnitdown]

One obvious advantage is that it is new, so you don't have to worry about bad surrounds (ever again), wrongly installed kits, etc.Compared to a 2235 it is objectively better on excursion (very silent), will have less intermodulation (meaning it will be much better at playing both LF and MF at the same time), and is less subject to power compression thanks to its TCR VC.Looking at the different white papers, the compression curve of a 4367 appears quite similar to that of a 4435 equipped with *two* 2234. This is quite a feat although it is maybe not a fair comparison given these measurements have been taken decades apart, so conditions might vary...One thing to consider though is its rising response, which requires a specific passive network or active EQ to handle. The "-1" variant is easier to deal with in this regard.It is clearly not a drop-in replacement for any of the vintage drivers, which were meant to be flat out of the box (in the box :D)Thank you - informative...particularly regarding power compression. I think I experience that with my LE14H-1-based system when played loud, or the room is all wrong. Don't know.