Chi-Fi Active Crossover?

[VinylGroove]

Thoughts on this Active Crossover on Aliexpress? They say they're Linkwitz-Riley filters, which I've read some other great crossovers like Marchand are. http://www.marchandelec.com/electronic-crossovers.html
I'm not clear if they're a clone of an existing device or an original design. They state you can customize the crossover point, so I could order it at 300Hz. (Default is 2200Hz)

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832608891469.html

Specs Listed:

1. Filter type: Linkwitz-Riley filter,

2. Frequency: 2200HZ (20-2200Hz for bass output, 2200-200000Hz for treble output) - The frequency divide point can be customized.

3. Attenuation slope: -24dB/Oct

4. Plate structure: 4 channel output, high pitch, bass

5. OP chip: double precision muses 8920 imported from JRC Company

[pos]

Linkwitz-Riley is a great target for an acoustical filter, but unless your drivers have a flat response far behond the intended crossover frequency you will never get a Linkwitz-Riley acoustical filter using a Linkwitz-Riley electrical one.You need dedicated slopes and EQs to get a a given acoustical target, and that is why the urei 5235 does use dedicated cards.

[VinylGroove]

Linkwitz-Riley is a great target for an acoustical filter, but unless your drivers have a flat response far behond the intended crossover frequency you will never get a Linkwitz-Riley acoustical filter using a Linkwitz-Riley electrical one.You need dedicated slopes and EQs to get a a given acoustical target, and that is why the urei 5235 does use dedicated cards.

I would be using an active crossover to divide frequencies above and below 300hz so I could biamp some 4343s with some charge-coupled crossovers I’ll be assembling.

[pos]

If your target acoustical crossover is a 24dB/oct 300Hz LR filter you you will probably need a 24dB/oct low-pass filter on the woofer and a 12dB high-pass one on the midwoofer, filters Qs and frequencies to be determined...

[Robh3606]

Here is another 4344 bi-amp thread. There are others beside myself that have used Pro 24dB crossovers to good effect. Difference is they were adjustable and not fixed so you could shift the crossover frequency a bit to get the best summing between drivers.

https://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?36026-4344-Bi-Amp-Crossover-Question&highlight=2122

Rob :)

[VinylGroove]

Here is another 4344 bi-amp thread. There are others beside myself that have used Pro 24dB crossovers to good effect. Difference is they were adjustable and not fixed so you could shift the crossover frequency a bit to get the best summing between drivers.

https://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?36026-4344-Bi-Amp-Crossover-Question&highlight=2122

Rob :)

Thanks, Rob. I read that thread and bought an Ashley XR-1001 rather than the crossover I linked above. At least I know it will work and others have had good results with it.

[Ian Mackenzie]

In addition to the comments already made I would err on the side of caution with anything from that source. Counterfeit parts, unknown manufacturer? There are better car audio crossovers. Under test the Marchland unfortunately performed poorly in 3rd party laboratory test report.

What l suggest you consider when you are ready is this :

https://www.xkitz.com/collections/active-crossovers-and-bi-amplifiers-1

I do have one of these kits and it appears well executed for the price. I have not tested it yet. All you need is your own box which is not difficult to arrange from suppliers in the USA who can custom fabricate for you. The box shields the circuits from noise and electrical interference.

When JBL engineered these systems they actually went to a lot of trouble to ensure the measured response was within +-2 db. Put simply if you don’t do it how it meant to be done it won’t sound the way it was supposed to. Yes it is a hobby and people will argue to the contrary (a well documented human trait). Let them stuff it up because that’s their decision.

I will go into this in a lot more detail in a complete article with new unpublished information on my new website. There’s a lot more to it than mets the eye and it warrants a detailed understanding.

If you really want the authentic JBL sound why not stay true to the original JBL engineering and do it the right way.

[Riley Casey]

Thats along the lines of saying imported from Walmart LOL
... imported from JRC Company

[Riley Casey]

If you really want analog active crossovers with 4th order LR filters the world is awash with analog crossovers retired by pro-audio companies when they made the move to digital. Crossovers from BSS, Ashly and TDM would likely be even after 20 years on the shelf better units than something for $175 from Alibaba.
I would be using an active crossover to divide frequencies above and below 300hz so I could biamp some 4343s with some charge-coupled crossovers I’ll be assembling.

[Robh3606]

Thanks, Rob. I read that thread and bought an Ashley XR-1001 rather than the crossover I linked above. At least I know it will work and others have had good results with it.

Since you are building a passive crossover I would not Charge Couple the high value caps used in the woofer filter Just use a low value bypass cap. Use the 4343/4345 schematic and set them up to use jumpers where the original biamp switch would be. Build it up passive and try the Ashley to see which you like best

Rob :)

[Ian Mackenzie]

Hey Rob,

Are you still using the DX1 active crossover?

[Robh3606]

Hey Rob,

Are you still using the DX1 active crossover?

Hello Ian

It's in "storage" until I resurrect a couple of systems I use it with 4344 and L250Ti Jubilee clone tops. I recently got a pair of bare stock boards from a kind member of the forum I want to bi-amp my Array 1400's at some point.

Rob :)

[4343]

Since you are building a passive crossover I would not Charge Couple the high value caps used in the woofer filter Just use a low value bypass cap. Use the 4343/4345 schematic and set them up to use jumpers where the original biamp switch would be. Build it up passive and try the Ashley to see which you like best Rob :)I've had good luck Charge Coupling bypassed electrolytics when the LF circuit needed large values that would have broken my bank.It occurs to me that one could also incorporate film caps in parallel with the electrolytic if the exact values are not available, then add the bypass as well.

[VinylGroove]

Since you are building a passive crossover I would not Charge Couple the high value caps used in the woofer filter Just use a low value bypass cap. Use the 4343/4345 schematic and set them up to use jumpers where the original biamp switch would be. Build it up passive and try the Ashley to see which you like best

Rob :)

I don’t know what that means but interested in how I would do that and why, if you’d be willing to share.

I am waiting on some updated revisions to the crossover from Echo before I start assembling anything. I have $2k of parts sitting here and a second Parasound A21 en route to try biamping.

[Ian Mackenzie]

I don’t know what that means but interested in how I would do that and why, if you’d be willing to share.

I am waiting on some updated revisions to the crossover from Echo before I start assembling anything. I have $2k of parts sitting here and a second Parasound A21 en route to try biamping.

I didn’t get it either …Lol

Reach out if you have any questions.

Enjoy your journey.

[Robh3606]

I don’t know what that means but interested in how I would do that and why, if you’d be willing to share.

I am waiting on some updated revisions to the crossover from Echo before I start assembling anything. I have $2k of parts sitting here and a second Parasound A21 en route to try biamping.

Forgot you purchased the PCB kit and parts. Carry on!!

Rob :)

[Ian Mackenzie]

Rob,

Why don’t you explain how much better the DX1 is compared to the Ashly XR-1001.

[VinylGroove]

Rob,

Why don’t you explain how much better the DX1 is compared to the Ashly XR-1001.

The DX-1 is not commonly available. I've only ever seen them bundled with XPL200's when they have been for sale, though I wasn't ever actively searching for them.
I tried to find a Bryston 10B but none of them are available right now.
Considered a Marchand XM44 but have read that Audio Science Review bit on them which makes me reluctant.
At least I will have the Ashley XR-1001 in hand so I can start experimenting.

I do have a line on a JBL 5234A with 4343 cards from a great source I've bought other hi-fi items from previously. He's going to test it and see if it checks out first.

[Mr. Widget]

Considered a Marchand XM44 but have read that Audio Science Review bit on them which makes me reluctant.Even though ASR is all about the numbers, I would take their reviews just like everyone else's with a grain of salt.

Personally I always like to try be fore I buy. If that isn't an option, then I factor in the added cost of what I will lose if I need to "fire sale" the unit after trying it out.


Widget

[Ian Mackenzie]

Can you tell us about the rest of your system?

[VinylGroove]

Can you tell us about the rest of your system?

Not much to tell.

Various Analog & Digital Sources > Parasound P7 Analog Preamp > Parasound A21 Amp > JBL 4343 or 250TI

Soon to Bi-amp 4343 with Active Crossover and a second A21 Amp, building External Crossovers with Echo PCB's for the 4343's

[Ricpan]

I use a Marchand electronic crossover for my biamped 4345s and couldn't be happier. I have used two other before including the Ashley and the Marchand is much better with my system.

[Ian Mackenzie]

Not much to tell.

Various Analog & Digital Sources > Parasound P7 Analog Preamp > Parasound A21 Amp > JBL 4343 or 250TI

Soon to Bi-amp 4343 with Active Crossover and a second A21 Amp, building External Crossovers with Echo PCB's for the 4343's

That’s a nice set up.