Any idea on this?

[pyonc]

Hi friends,

I need to open the LX 5 network to fasten the red input jack.
Looks like it is not easy to open it for a beginner like me.
Please advise me if you could.
Thanks much in advance.

[grumpy]

Access to a drill, a blind rivet tool, and proper sized rivets? Some have used screws in their place.

[Horn Fanatic]

Hi friends,

I need to open the LX 5 network to fasten the red input jack.
Looks like it is not easy to open it for a beginner like me.
Please advise me if you could.
Thanks much in advance.



Greetings -

If you must remove the cover I recommend not drilling out the pop rivets, as doing so may cause the rivet to spin when the drill bit makes contact with the steel pin, which will tear up the paint and most likely damage the holes in the can and casting.

I recommend that you gently take little bites using a deburring / countersink bit to remove the rivet flange. Be sure to use a few drops of cutting oil. The rivet is made of aluminum, and cuts very easily. Then you can simply push out the remainder of the rivet, leaving any aluminum dust outside the can. Having access to a drill press would be a plus. That way you can control the pressure on the bit better than by using a hand drill. Trust me, it works. Be sure to wear eye protection!

This is the type of deburring / countersink bit I'm referring to, which can be found at stores catering to machinists;

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4PC-Steel-Wood-Countersink-Debur-Deburring-Tool-Deburing-Set-Hole-Countersinker/32406521775.html


Good luck,

HF

P.S. Try using the bit on a piece of scrap aluminum first so you can get used to how it cuts. Too much pressure will eat that can up and burrow into the casting.

The rivet most likely is a 1/8th inch. I agree with Grumpy when he suggests using screws in their place. Perhaps the hole in the casting can be tapped for a 6-32 thread. Be sure to use tapping oil. A 6-32 x 1/4 inch Phillip pan head would be the ticket. Using a sheet metal screw is ill-advised, unless it is a tapping type screw such as an 'F' thread. I recommend buying hardware from a reputable source. Not Home Depot or Lowes. Their hardware is made by the Chi-Coms, and is absolute crap.

[pyonc]

Greetings -

If you must remove the cover I recommend not drilling out the pop rivets, as doing so may cause the rivet to spin when the drill bit makes contact with the steel pin, which will tear up the paint and most likely damage the holes in the can and casting.

I recommend that you gently take little bites using a deburring / countersink bit to remove the rivet flange. Be sure to use a few drops of cutting oil. The rivet is made of aluminum, and cuts very easily. Then you can simply push out the remainder of the rivet, leaving any aluminum dust outside the can. Having access to a drill press would be a plus. That way you can control the pressure on the bit better than by using a hand drill. Trust me, it works. Be sure to wear eye protection!

This is the type of deburring / countersink bit I'm referring to, which can be found at stores catering to machinists;

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4PC-Steel-Wood-Countersink-Debur-Deburring-Tool-Deburing-Set-Hole-Countersinker/32406521775.html


Good luck,

HF

P.S. Try using the bit on a piece of scrap aluminum first so you can get used to how it cuts. Too much pressure will eat that can up and burrow into the casting.

The rivet most likely is a 1/8th inch. I agree with Grumpy when he suggests using screws in their place. Perhaps the hole in the casting can be tapped for a 6-32 thread. Be sure to use tapping oil. A 6-32 x 1/4 inch Phillip pan head would be the ticket. Using a sheet metal screw is ill-advised, unless it is a tapping type screw such as an 'F' thread. I recommend buying hardware from a reputable source. Not Home Depot or Lowes. Their hardware is made by the Chi-Coms, and is absolute crap.

Thanks a lot for your advice. :applaud:Looks like this is a challenging job, which I'm reluctant to do. Actually I found a replacement of the red cap jack from an existing JBL network, and managed to get it into the threaded hole. So, I don't need to open the box at this point. :)

[Horn Fanatic]

Thanks a lot for your advice. :applaud:Looks like this is a challenging job, which I'm reluctant to do. Actually I found a replacement of the red cap jack from an existing JBL network, and managed to get it into the threaded hole. So, I don't need to open the box at this point. :)

You should have a pair phenolic insulators for the input terminal, so as not to short the positive terminal to the casting.

HF

[pyonc]

You should have a pair phenolic insulators for the input terminal, so as not to short the positive terminal to the casting.

HF

That's a very good point! Thanks much again.

[toddalin]

I've never had a problem drilling them out with a small bit.