What kind of amps and cables do you use?

[Primus]

Hi!

I`m new here in the forum and a dedicated JBL 250ti Limited edition lover!!:bouncy:

Also I`m from Norway, so bare with me, considering my English....:D

As you know, my front speakers are: 250ti Limited Edition, I got these beauties from Harman Neby Norway, they had been demo speakers. The year was 2001, replaced the woofers in 2002, replaced the midbasses in 2009, and now I`m waiting for the LE14H-3 woofers to arrive. How many demoes I`ve been to, I don`t know, but I have never heard that sound!!

When I listen to stereo, I use Electrocompaniet: EMC1UP, EC 4.7 and EC 250R. I also use the Electrocompaniet balanced cables and MIT 4 bi- wiring cables.

When I listen to surround, I use the systems as listed above, and PSB Stratus Gold as back surround, Many meters Monster cables, Klipsch RC64 center, Velodyne DD18, Oppo BDP 105EU, And luckily: my rebuilt HKAVR8500, I found a guy, who managed to build me a "New" one - from my old and one I bought... between the Oppo and the HK I use audiquest cobra cables, A Samsung 60" tv set and Optoma 3D projector and Dreamscreen 106" screen. I may have forgotten something, but this is what I use in my spare time....

When I watch Movies and concerts I also use a high pass filter. I use Oelbach 100 hertz high pass filter, in order to prevent my LE14H-1 woofers to crack. The last time I changed them; was in 2002, and they are still in good condition, thanx to Oelbach:).

But, of course, I`m looking forward to the LE14H-3 woofers!!:bouncy:


looking forward - to see what kind of systems you use, and your experience!!


Primus.

[Wagner]

Tube amplifiers I have cobbled together, one "big" the other "small" (7591 and 6BQ5 respectively) I have a Telefunken tube amp on the bench waiting for inspiration to strike, needs a good re-capping (a selenium rectifier that has to go as well) and voltage checks/adjust before being pressed into being used as a daily driver

(99% of the time, I do/did own some fairly capable Sorry State, just not a great fan of it) Gave most of it to the children

I use cables (wire) made of good quality copper for both music signals and getting AC power to the equipment. I like Mogami products for signal handling and do my own termination

Thomas Wagner

[Ed Kreamer]

Hello Primus,

A good way to get into a bottomless pit of arguments is to start talking about patch cord/interconnects/cables/wires/zip cord! Just saying.

[Primus]

Hello Primus,

A good way to get into a bottomless pit of arguments is to start talking about patch cord/interconnects/cables/wires/zip cord! Just saying.


But the thing that has given me, perhaps the most success, is the Oelbach car hifi filter, that cost me about 40 dollars. It must have been the cheapest, most successful Electronic Device I have put in my system!
Without it; the LE14H-1 woofers would have cracked within the minute of AC3 streaming through the system. This is one of the main reasons the woofers are still in good condition, the last time I changed them was in 2002.

Perhaps the forum members have done a simular thing...:)

[Mr. Widget]

But the thing that has given me, perhaps the most success, is the Oelbach car hifi filter, that cost me about 40 dollars.What is this filter? I've never heard of it.

Regarding your original question... That's a tough one. The list is long and often changing... at least on the electronics side. Luckily for me (as far as my budget goes) I'm still a cable agnostic. I have a pile of uber high end Transparent cables sitting in a box that a friend wants me to sell... I haven't even bothered to hook them up to see what tens of thousands of dollars of cables sounds like.


Widget

[LowPhreak]

... I haven't even bothered to hook them up to see what tens of thousands of dollars of cables sounds like.



Maybe you really don't want to know? Pandora's Box and all that...

[Mr. Widget]

Maybe you really don't want to know? Pandora's Box and all that...No, I will audition them before selling them, but garden hose cables also come with a huge PITA Factor too. If I feel there is something to them I'll work out a deal with my friend to keep a pair, but so far of the dozens of cables I have tried only once did I hear a consistent improvement. That was with a digital cable and in that case even though there was a real improvement it didn't overcome the PITA Factor and cost.


Widget

[Primus]

What is this filter? I've never heard of it.

Regarding your original question... That's a tough one. The list is long and often changing... at least on the electronics side. Luckily for me (as far as my budget goes) I'm still a cable agnostic. I have a pile of uber high end Transparent cables sitting in a box that a friend wants me to sell... I haven't even bothered to hook them up to see what tens of thousands of dollars of cables sounds like.


Widget

I will take Pictures and explain!:)

[Ducatista47]

Also a wire agnostic, I rewired my 4345 system last night. The biamped speakers needed eight modest - about five foot - wires, and the amps' binding posts accept AWG #10 stranded max. I went to a local home improvement center and picked up two fifty foot spools of "Machine Tool Wire." One red and one black, $10.70 each, 10 AWG, THHN jacket, 600 volt, made in USA. That is about 43 cents a foot for stranded two conductor. I have 30 feet times two left for other projects.

#10 stranded in this industrial sheathing is a bit stiff, not limp, but it was convenient because it stays where I put it! I imagine #12 gauge would be more flexible and that would be enough wire for most speaker applications. It is a super tough version of the wire used to pull through conduit. It meets UL specs for 90 degree C and for oil and gasoline Res II. It is also used for internal appliance wiring. Good enough for a toaster, certainly able to resist any heat or abrasion a stereo will dish out.

I had not seen this wire before, I had previously used ignition wire for lighter gauge more flexible applications, but I like this stuff a lot. You can step on it and the cats will have a hard time chewing on it. It is stiff enough in this gauge to keep it off the floor if that is what you want.

[SEAWOLF97]

Also a wire agnostic,

And another wire agnostic here. I use Carrol underground (waterproof) 12 ga. lighting cable. sounds great to me.

a while back I got hooked up with some cases of Philips 6ft. interconnects. Rewired all my systems, sold the surplus here on LHF. Everybody seemed happy with them ?

Amps ? Big commercial BGW 750D , 250D and an Adcom GFA-555

fits my needs. ;)

[Wagner]

but garden hose cables also come with a huge PITA Factor too
Widget
One being the way all the fancy ass Cardas interconnects I bought back in the late '90s have managed to damage, or on one occasion even tear out, about a third of my RCA jacks (unless continuously supported)

I would be ecstatic to get 1/2 of my money back for all of these cables (and I don't own THAT many)

I wince at the thought of how gullible I was

[martin2395]

Had the same with fancy stuff - broke a MIT Shotgun S3's and AQ Columbia DBS...
These cables are just too stiff to hang at the back of your gear, especially the MIT's with magic boxes (nothing more than a resistor/coil/cap network).
Both developed a crack inside the plug, not sure about the MIT since I sold them but the AQ were FUBAR - no way to solder it back.

Hate when cable manufactures don't stick to norms, I had AQ xlr cables that would randomly drop connection because of the custom AQ plugs that don't fit nearly as well as Neutrik.

I prefer to stay away from no-name Chinese cabling but rather use something decent like Belden/Mogami/VanDamme etc.
Very good, no nonsense wiring.

[Primus]

I see that there are a lot of cable guys here! :) I`m a MIT man myself!

But one guy in Oslo, told me that, in his opinion his JBL 250ti system didn`t function well enough before he bought the largest Pass Labs mono amps.....:D

Anyone else who agree with him....?

For many years I have been an Electrocompaniet amps fan (and they are produced in Norway:))
And they manage to drive the 250ti-s properly.

I remember one article in an audio Magazine, years ago, that stated that Michael Jackson used the Electrocompaniet 250R in his studio, was back in the 9o-ies I think.....:bouncy:


Primus.

[LowPhreak]

Ducatista - have you compared any of those wires/cables with the Audio DiffMaker yet?

[Wagner]

I had previously used ignition wire for lighter gauge more flexible applications
What do you mean by the descriptive "ignition"?

As in "secondary" or other?

[Ducatista47]

Ducatista - have you compared any of those wires/cables with the Audio DiffMaker yet?
No, I have not used it yet. I don't have a recording soundcard or anything like it. I posted the AudioDiff Maker thread a few days after discovering the software's existence on Audioholics in the hope it would be of interest here, and maybe merit some discussion and deeper thinking. I think I guessed correctly. Noticing the Harman How To Listen Software was listed, I figured the list might be useful and checked it out. https://www.audioholics.com/how-to-shop/best-free-audio-software (https://www.audioholics.com/how-to-shop/best-free-audio-software)

What do you mean by the descriptive "ignition"?

As in "secondary" or other?
Eighteen gauge stranded, sold at Menard's at one time in red or black insulation for automotive ignitions. I use it with my 101dB Hammer Dynamics Super 12s.

[Wagner]

Eighteen gauge stranded, sold at Menard's at one time in red or black insulation for automotive ignitions. I use it with my 101dB Hammer Dynamics Super 12s.

Primary or secondary ignition?
Can you photograph?
Thank you,
Thomas

[grumpy]

Are you asking if he's using spark plug wires?

1) no.

2) just no.

3) you'd need two, and they'd have to be racing ... ah, just no.

[Wagner]

Are you asking if he's using spark plug wires?

1) no.

2) just no.

3) you'd need two, and they'd have to be racing ... ah, just no.
Secondary ignition wire was, and still is sold by the spool
It's all I would use back in "the day" when custom fit sets more often than not sucked and were ridiculously over priced (and what that funny thing you always wondered about is for on the end of your stripper/crimping pliers)

Regardless, there is such a thing as solid core (metal) secondary wire but it's rare nowadays and hard to find, ergo the way I asked the question. I'd like to have some if it is in fact available (affordably, as in CHEAP and in bulk)

I went to the website for that chain, forget about it..................and he said it was a while ago, so.............

There is no special wire for automotive ignitions' primary except for resister wire used by GM and a few others and I know that's not being sold at any home builder's supply store, otherwise it's just a flexible stranded lower voltage rating (lower than tube amps or home appliances @600V) wire for auomotive use (nowadays there are some fire regs/requirements but that's about it) nothing that toaster oven hookup wire would not meet or exceed

That's why I am so interested and pressing for the clarification/photo/details-his specific reference to automotive ignition use

Being there is no such thing as wire made specifically for automotive ignition system's PRIMARY except what I mentioned above, although I have seen some the Auto Zone type junk parts houses that do sell short lengths in blister boxes (best name I can up with for the pre-packaging) that does say stupid meaningless shit on it like "for auto ignition" but then the OP wouldn't have been buying THAT sort of thing at a building supply store................

.................I'd like to know what he's talking about

[grumpy]

Used to be performance/hot rod shops carried bulk non-RF suppression plug wire in various diameters.
might try summit racing or the like.

Re what wire was actually used, there's conductor material, plated or not, ga., #strands, insulation material and thickness. I'm assuming single conductor "geometry". Those things might help nail down what was meant.

[300_Summit]

What is this filter? I've never heard of it.


Widget

It's an inline high pass filter. You place it on the input of your amplifier. I actually was just reading up on these yesterday. I'm going to get a pair myself and try them on my L-300s. I'm going to try a 50hz high pass. I have a subwoofer, so I really don't want my 300s going much below 50hz. This is the one I'm going to get from parts express:



http://www.parts-express.com/data/default/images/catalog/240/266-270_HR_0.jpg (http://www.parts-express.com/Data/Default/Images/Catalog/Original/266-270_HR_0.jpg)








Harrison Labs FMOD Inline Crossover Pair 50 Hz High Pass RCA




Product Details


Harrison Labs FMOD Inline Crossover Pair 50 Hz High Pass RCA
What is an FMOD™? The FMOD™ is an active crossover simulator. It is better than a much more expensive electronic crossover that requires power to operate. FMODs™ are packaged in pairs and can be combined with other FMODs™ to obtain bandpass ranges or with other types of crossovers to change the slope and crossover frequency point. FMODs™ feature a 12 dB per octave crossover slope and are compatible with all RCA type input amps...simply place the FMOD™ in-line with the patch cable running between the source (head unit) and the amplifier. 24kt gold over brass construction, 10 volts maximum RMS input. One-year manfacturer warranty. Made in the U.S.A.

[Ducatista47]

Primary or secondary ignition?
Can you photograph?
Thank you,
Thomas
Of course I remembered wrong. Primary Wire from GB. 16 Gauge. 600V 105 degree C. Tin plated stranded copper.7086570866

[Wagner]

Of course I remembered wrong. Primary Wire from GB. 16 Gauge. 600V 105 degree C. Tin plated stranded copper.
I supected that's what it was
Thank you for the clarification
Thomas

[Ducatista47]

I supected that's what it was
Thank you for the clarification
Thomas
You're welcome for the clarification and of course my terrible memory, which is why it was necessary, comes at no additional charge. :o:

It is very flexible and I highly recommend it if 16 AWG is OK. Easy to use and inexpensive. Red & black spools make for goof proof use.

[Mr. Widget]

It's an inline high pass filter. You place it on the input of your amplifier.
Of course, a line level passive filter. A buddy used to passively biamp using home made versions.

Thanks,

Widget

[Mr. Widget]

Red & black spools make for goof proof use.You've obviously never seen me work... nothing is goof proof. :D


Widget

[Wagner]

You're welcome for the clarification and of course my terrible memory, which is why it was necessary, comes at no additional charge. :o:

It is very flexible and I highly recommend it if 16 AWG is OK. Easy to use and inexpensive. Red & black spools make for goof proof use.
You using this for internal wiring or what exactly?

Can't get it anymore, but Radio Shack used to carry spools of black and white (small) solid core hook-up wire (300V) that I used on a lot of internal vintage wire replacements (that had become corroded) Catalog # 278-1217 18AWG 60FT rolls for about $5 bucks

Went from "Made in the U.S.A." to china, and now, NLA. Wish I had stocked up on the stuff

Made it into twisted pairs for internal cabinet wiring and even a couple of sets of (experimental) speaker cables, high quality, "sounded" as good as any of the other wire I have tried (the speaker cables maybe "better" but I couldn't prove it) Works well for homemade FM antennas as well (quick and dirty modified cubical quads being one)

If you see any on a shelf, grab it, but obviously has the draw backs of solid core when used for long runs

[Ducatista47]

You using this for internal wiring or what exactly?


No, this is my speaker wire for a system. I used to use 18 gauge magnet wire but I thought I would try something a little heavier. The needed current for these speakers is small, but since the First Watt F1J current source amp can send more power than the small tube amps the speaker designer had in mind for it... A just in case scenario. The 10 gauge on my 4345s is overkill but no harm done there either. As I said elsewhere I have probably spent too much on amplification, but this stuff does have faultless sound. Some day I might throw a cheap 25 watt class D in there and there may not be a difference, who knows.

I have long bucked the trend here and the ancient low power warning JBL paper. I don't play my speakers as loudly as some, and they are so efficient I don't need big watts. In the 98-101 dB category big power only adds inches, and I am content in my manhood without doing that. :D Come'on, two watts through these and I need earplugs. Keep the Crowns, glad they like them. Bottom line, 16 AWG is welcome here.

I still think double insulated magnet wire is a first class choice for internal speaker connections, if I ever go there. Compact, stiff and indestructible. Then again that stranded machine tool THHN I found will fill the bill too.

[Wagner]

No, this is my speaker wire for a system. I used to use 18 gauge magnet wire but I thought I would try something a little heavier. The needed current for these speakers is small, but since the First Watt F1J current source amp can send more power than the small tube amps the speaker designer had in mind for it... A just in case scenario. The 10 gauge on my 4345s is overkill but no harm done there either. As I said elsewhere I have probably spent too much on amplification, but this stuff does have faultless sound. Some day I might throw a cheap 25 watt class D in there and there may not be a difference, who knows.

I have long bucked the trend here and the ancient low power warning JBL paper. I don't play my speakers as loudly as some, and they are so efficient I don't need big watts. In the 98-101 dB category big power only adds inches, and I am content in my manhood without doing that. :D Come'on, two watts through these and I need earplugs. Keep the Crowns, glad they like them. Bottom line, 16 AWG is welcome here.

I still think double insulated magnet wire is a first class choice for internal speaker connections, if I ever go there. Compact, stiff and indestructible. Then again that stranded machine tool THHN I found will fill the bill too.
Well, if you're fine with using that 16 AWG for speaker wire then you should definitely try the Radio Shack solid core made up into TPs, you may just enjoy the results

I just did a cursory search and it appears there is still some floating around out there on ePay and the like and for less money than I paid for it new, which was already next to nothing

[Ducatista47]

You've obviously never seen me work... nothing is goof proof. :D


WidgetIt's house wiring that makes me think too much. White insulated with black sharpie ends crammed into the junction boxes with every other color there is. I have to run some 220V here so I can't use the red wire for that.

[LowPhreak]

No, I have not used it yet. I don't have a recording soundcard or anything like it. I posted the AudioDiff Maker thread a few days after discovering the software's existence on Audioholics in the hope it would be of interest here, and maybe merit some discussion and deeper thinking. I think I guessed correctly. Noticing the Harman How To Listen Software was listed, I figured the list might be useful and checked it out. https://www.audioholics.com/how-to-shop/best-free-audio-software (https://www.audioholics.com/how-to-shop/best-free-audio-software)



Another useful link, thanks.

Don't know if you've seen this or its ilk, but it has been helpful for me in room set-up. http://noaudiophile.com/speakercalc/ You can adjust according to practicalities of you room of course, and some of you have other ways to find room nodes or nulls but it's a good quick n' dirty.

I'd like to see some tests or comments via Diff Maker with some of these wires you guys are using, since to be honest, it's hard to believe that some of you are using such connections on your otherwise very good rigs.

Shots fired? :die: Well no, I'm not looking for a cable debate. My days with that are long over. I'd just like to see if a difference can be shown and if it may be audible. :)

[Wagner]

it's hard to believe that some of you are using such connections on your otherwise very good rigs.
Shots fired? :die: Well no, I'm not looking for a cable debate. My days with that are long over. I'd just like to see if a difference can be shown and if it may be audible. :)
Be more specific as to what you find "hard" to believe then

Thomas

[Ducatista47]

I'd like to see some tests or comments via Diff Maker with some of these wires you guys are using, since to be honest, it's hard to believe that some of you are using such connections on your otherwise very good rigs.


Be aware that there is one circumstance where wire does not matter even from an engineering standpoint. One of the systems I have been describing has a transconductance (current source) amplifier wired directly to a full range driver. In such a system current rather than voltage supplied to the transducer follows the input signal waveform. The cone moves in lockstep with the current. Some of the elements that no longer have an effect are back EMF, power compression (it is gone), impedance of the voice coil, voice coil temperature, and the properties of the wire. If it was big enough to pass the current without significant loss a coat hanger would do. By the way, the output impedance of the amp is 60 or 80 ohms depending on the model. 80 ohms into an 8 ohm load, how does that damping factor sound? Again, no relevance to my system.

My First Watt F1J driving my Hammer Dynamics Super 12 is such a system. I do not use the supplied crossover and run a second wire from the binding post through a 2mF cap to the Audex tweeter that covers the last octave. That's the system with the 16 AWG stranded Primary Wire.

[Primus]

70890

[Primus]

70891

[Primus]

A little bit late, but here are the Pictures!

As you can see: the filters that go into the HK AVR8500 are High Pass 100hz.
The other ones are 50hz. I`ve kept them as a reminder to always take care of the LE14H-1 woofers:).
When I used 50 hz, the woofers cracked, but when I got the 100hz filters in 2002, the woofers have functioned properly!

I use the Velodyne DD18 system to take care of the LFE signal:D

I am a little bit concerned about the walls in my house, this bad boy shakes the neighbourhood!! It goes steadily up to 120hz, so the frequency Levels go well together!

I use Oppo BDP105 as home Entertainment, and therefore use the analog output signal, I use Audioquest cobra cables as signal cables!

A Monster is used to give signal to the DD18. A positive benefit from doing this, is that the HK AVR8500 only gives Power to The PSB Stratus Gold and the Klipsch RC64 center.
Electrocompaniet 250R and EC 4.7 drives the 250ti Limited edition system! A good combination I can surely recommend!!


Primus! (ps: Harman says that the woofers will be sent to me: 11.05.16 - do I dare to hope that this is true.....:dont-know::bouncy: the LE14H-3 woofers:applaud:)

[LowPhreak]

Ducatista - My query was directed more toward those rigs with cables that may have a greater effect than what the connections on your specific config described here might have, i.e., a more "standard" or typical set-up using the Audio DiffMaker to compare cables, (I'm keeping up on that thread as well).

I'm interested in what I've seen some on LH say they're using like Belden, DIY stuff, or 18-12ga generic speaker wire vs. any of the well-known audiophile cable brands using various lay-ups; or say for example Widget's Transparent garden hoses vs. whatever he's currently using (not picking on Widget, it just comes to mind as he mentioned them earlier).

Not to generate controversy, but to discover if possible ways to improve the end results of our systems, and/or to eliminate things that are not useful to that end.

[Wagner]

You mean that "DIY" Belden and Mogami wire they use in studios, theaters and concert venues around the globe?

Don't feed the trolls, please

Thomas

[LowPhreak]

FWIW - Wagner has been on my 'Ignore' list for the past couple of weeks, who has earned the distinction of the only one I've blocked on LH in 10 years of coming here. Thus I'll not be reading or responding to any of his posts.

[Wagner]

FWIW - Wagner has been on my 'Ignore' list for the past couple of weeks, who has earned the distinction of the only one ever on LH. Thus I'll not be reading or responding to any of his posts.
Right

I think you've already mentioned that, a couple of times, don't know why you feel compelled to (continue to) share that?

Can't we all just get along?! :confused:

Thomas

[Ducatista47]

Ducatista - My query was directed more toward those rigs with cables that may have a greater effect than what the connections on your specific config described here might have, i.e., a more "standard" or typical set-up using the Audio DiffMaker to compare cables, (I'm keeping up on that thread as well).

I'm interested in what I've seen some on LH say they're using like Belden, DIY stuff, or 18-12ga generic speaker wire vs. any of the well-known audiophile cable brands using various lay-ups; or say for example Widget's Transparent garden hoses vs. whatever he's currently using (not picking on Widget, it just comes to mind as he mentioned them earlier).

Not to generate controversy, but to discover if possible ways to improve the end results of our systems, and/or to eliminate things that are not useful to that end.
I will be the one to mention the elephant in the room, I guess. In many, probably most to nearly all the instances here (this community) where "regular" cable or wire is used, it is not because the audio hobbyist in question does not care or has not looked into this matter. On the contrary, like you they have thought this through, done their homework, and acted on their conclusions. Which were, trust in electrical and audio engineers to tell us what the properties of wire and cable are. This would be a different choice than relying on information from other audio enthusiasts who feel that many audio equipment purchasers and the manufacturers and sellers of what they purchased know something about the electrical properties of conductors that the members of the AES do not.

At this point the fur usually starts to fly, which no one on this thread, you and I included, wish to see. Where the usually missing respect would come is about here. Those trusting audio engineers, materials scientists and the mainstream manufacturers like Belden have every right to shrug shoulders and think whatever they think when faced with True Wire Believers, for want of a better term. Likewise, the other case will think, perhaps, "Oh well," and wonder why. That was your question, and your suggestion to use tools like Audio DiffMaker is a great, non argumentative response, and probably very useful one.

Just be prepared for an answer you may be surprised by. The authors of this software mentioned, by naming types of products, that audio products that ignore the advice of audio engineering are the prime target of said software's ability to debunk, another way of saying they believe the products are bunk. Also note that reviewers of audio equipment and the writers of the documentation and advertising of that equipment rarely use terms that have any scientific or engineering meaning at all. In other words, it may appear that numbers are on the side of wire and cable merchants who claim unscientific properties (including more is better). All the other side has is the scientific method and the agreement of audio and electrical engineers, and that their stuff works. I can see why something that claims to work better than lesser priced products automatically has traction, it is the American way, but like history, one ignores science at their peril. Sales is a numbers game. Science, not so much. The scientific method is not a popularity contest.

The other thing odd about asserting things is that the accused is usually asked to pay for the burden of proof, which is, to put it kindly, problematic. Guilty until proven innocent. I would suggest that since the owners of the expensive products already possess them and the supposedly inferior products are low priced and at the nearest home improvement center, those believing the easily available products could not sound the same should do the testing.

[Mr. Widget]

I'm interested in what I've seen some on LH say they're using like Belden, DIY stuff, or 18-12ga generic speaker wire vs. any of the well-known audiophile cable brands using various lay-ups; or say for example Widget's Transparent garden hoses vs. whatever he's currently using (not picking on Widget, it just comes to mind as he mentioned them earlier).

I don't have the Diffmaker software or a convenient way to use it, but if I have time this weekend I'll set up CLIO to measure my system and compare the sound both with my standard 12 ga cable and the Transparent garden hose. It'll be interesting to see if there is a difference.

While I'm at it I'll compare a couple of amps. My preamp is adjustable in 0.1dB increments so I should be able to balance them.


Widget

[Ian Mackenzie]

I have have made diy Kimber cable using Cat 9.

I compared it in years gone by to jumbo 12 gauge OFC used in auto audio subs and my impression was more HF detail.

This diy cable was a favourate of our late forum member Zilch.

I had a hard time trusting his curves but not his ear.

[300_Summit]

I use 2 Emotiva monoblocks (XPA-100,250 wpc) with the Emotiva Fusion 8100 (Pre/Pro Reciever). I also use their speaker cable and RCA cable. Works pretty well for .

[Wagner]

Ducatista - My query was directed more toward those rigs with cables that may have a greater effect than what the connections on your specific config described here might have, i.e., a more "standard" or typical set-up using the Audio DiffMaker to compare cables, (I'm keeping up on that thread as well).

I'm interested in what I've seen some on LH say they're using like Belden, DIY stuff, or 18-12ga generic speaker wire vs. any of the well-known audiophile cable brands using various lay-ups; or say for example Widget's Transparent garden hoses vs. whatever he's currently using (not picking on Widget, it just comes to mind as he mentioned them earlier).

Not to generate controversy, but to discover if possible ways to improve the end results of our systems, and/or to eliminate things that are not useful to that end.
The software is free dude, have at it
http://libinst.com/Audio%20DiffMaker.htm
T.W.

[Ian Mackenzie]

In reference to connector, for small voltages like phono they matter and require cleaning as do loudspeaker terminations that are the weakest link.

On cables it's not the cable changing anything, it's the visual appearance and in some cases the capacitance and inductance load created by the cable on the input stage the cable is feeding with interconnects and the loading on the power amp.

Some cables are worse than no cable in the regard.

Don't tell a cable can sound better than no cable!

[gasfan]

Has anyone tried the TNT Audio Ubyte-2?http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/ubyte2e.html

[David Ketley]

I think the capacitance of a cable might make a difference. I use 75 ohm TV analogue cable connecting direct from the amplifiers to the tweeters JBL 2405s, no connectors. Very cheap.
This is on a 4 way active system.
Mains can have an effect on noise and response,my system was suffering from interference with the central heating boiler turning on and off so I had a dedicated spur fitted to the mains box it certainly improved matters and the bass seemed more solid than going through a mains conditioner. Mains conditioners seem to adversely affect the bass response so should only be used for low current devices?
Corrosion can also have a detrimental affect, I sold an expensive DAC only to find out later that the copper core of the connectors had corroded giving a very poor signal.

[SEAWOLF97]

Mains conditioners seem to adversely affect the bass response so should only be used for low current devices

I had a speaker selector box - up to 4 pairs, that had an "impedance protection" switch for when more than 1 pair was selected.

Thankfully it was defeat-able, as it killed bass response when engaged.

[Mctwins]

Hallo!

I am using Supra Ply 3,4 speaker cables.

Signal cables all in XLR is a mix with Cordial CSM FM Gold and Supras DAC-XLR.

Power cables and Main blocks....Supra

More than enough ability to sound great:)

[richluvsound]

What is this filter? I've never heard of it.

Regarding your original question... That's a tough one. The list is long and often changing... at least on the electronics side. Luckily for me (as far as my budget goes) I'm still a cable agnostic. I have a pile of uber high end Transparent cables sitting in a box that a friend wants me to sell... I haven't even bothered to hook them up to see what tens of thousands of dollars of cables sounds like.


Widget


:blink: I've missed you .