New JBL waveguides, #5006812 90x50 vs PT-F95HF

[sebackman]

Hello,

It seems like JBL keep producing new waveguides. There is some really good information here on the PT-F95HF and even some good measurements. Thank you.

Now, that guide is from about 2002 and maybe there are newer and better horns. Among others there is a guide in the newer STX825 (#5006812). Does anybody here have info on that waveguide or the other new 1,5" guides JBL is producing.

Are these giudes available as parts?

thank you

//RoB

[sebackman]

No one looking at these new waveguides?

There is also a new series speaker from JBL , VTX F12 ad F15.

They seem to use the D2 driver and the STX825 waveguide.

http://www.jblpro.com/ProductAttachments/VTX_F_Series_BrochureNov2013.pdf

Any views?

//RoB

[pos]

I think these are the exact same waveguides, but in a cheaper plastic version.

[sebackman]

Hi Pos,

I thought that they were all made in plastic nowadays. The consumer horns seem to be made in Sonoglass but the pro stuff has to settle for plastic.

Few of the new horn/waveguides appears to be cast aluminum. Some of the 2002 waveguides are aluminium (as described in Bulletin #31) but I don’t know about the newer ones. It is impossible to judge from the pictures, at least I cannot. Even the M2 waveguide looks like plastic.

The STX825 waveguide is different compared to the PT-F95HF even if they share the same outer dimensions, coverage and basic design. If the new VTX F12/F15 is a third iteration is an open question as JBL has not posted “Exploded Views” for them yet. Maybe someone here has the part no for the VTX horn?

It would be very interesting to know the difference, except for the obvious coverage differences, between the VTX F12/F15 waveguides and the M2 waveguide. Maybe they even sound reasonable alike with the M2 guide being more refined due to design and size. The driver is the same as M2.

//RoB

[sebackman]

Hi all,

I have bought a few different waveguides including the VTX F12 guide and something else that may be of interest to forum members. I will post some measurements as soon as I get some driver adapters made.

I have access to 2450SL, 2451Ti and 2451Be so it may give some guidance what these new guides can do with different diaphragms.

Best regards
//RoB

[tomee]

hmmm, those look interesting..why am I DIYing speakers like this with old parts?? What would a pair of VTX F18S and F12 set me back?

[ivica]

I have bought a few different waveguides including the VTX F12 guide and something else that may be of interest to forum members. I will post some measurements as soon as I get some driver adapters made.
I have access to 2450SL, 2451Ti and 2451Be so it may give some guidance what these new guides can do with different diaphragms.
...RoB

Hi sebackman,

May be interesting experience with PT-H95HF and 2450SL applied

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?36528-Is-PT-F95HF-a-meaningful-sonic-upgrade-from-2332&p=371066&viewfull=1#post371066

regards
Ivica

[sebackman]

Hi

I will try to measure the 2450SL on the newer VTX F12 horn this weekend and post here if time permits .

Best regards
//RoB

[GordonW]

Hi sebackman/ RoB- do you have the factory part number for the horn from the VTX F12? I'm trying to find them here, but can't locate anything without that number.

Thanks!

Regards,
Gordon.

[sebackman]

Hi Gordon,

Sorry, I should have updated this thread.

Part number for the horn is #5006815. It is used also in the STX825. It looks like the older PT from the pictures but in reality it is slightly different. At least the ones I have. I bought a bunch of these and I'm swapping all my older horns to this one. Attached are some measures with different drivers. They measure real well and also sound excellent. A link is attached below.
http://reconingspeakers.com/product/jbl-horn-lens-5006815-stx825/

The 2450SL sounds real good on the VTX horn and the perceived difference to the M2 waveguide is surprisingly small compared to all other combos I have tested. The major difference is the sound stage, the M2 is much bigger and you are "in the music". No shadow on the VTX, it is probably a better choice than most other imho. Being small, plastic and ugly won't get you any optic brownie points :-). Maybe that is why they cannot use them in consumer stuff.

The 1" version is also good and I have several friends changing plans when they heard the 1"/2226 combo with either 2206 or 2226. Personally I think the 2206 sound better as the XO will have to be >1kHz for the 1” driver horn combo. Just for trying I swapped in a Radian alu diaphragm in the 2426 on the 1" waveguide and that was a fantastic combo with the 2206. -Well worth a thought as the 2426 may be easier to come by.

Kind regards
//RoB

Below JBL 2450SL on VTX

65496
Below JBL 2451Be on VTX

65497
Below JBL 2450Ti on VTX

65498
Below Beyma CP755Ti on VTX

65499

And for comparison below the JBL 2451Ti on 2332

65500

[sebackman]

Hi

Attached are some pictures of some speakers I'm building. The larger pair is an old Sr4722X box that I rebuilt and put some bracing in. Woofer is 2206 and the HF is now VTX horns. There is another thread on them here with the difference being the 2332 horn being swapped against a pair of VTX waveguides. They are passive XO and a Crown CTS600 amp.

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?35293-1kHz-suck-out-from-2206H-in-SR4722X-cabinet-ideas&highlight=2206

The smaller cabinets are also built for 2206 and I'm building 2 pairs, a pair for the work shop and a pair for the garage. They will be equipped with 2206, VTX and one pair with 2451Ti's and the other pair with 2450SL. Albeit being ported they are too small for meaningful bass so they will be accompanied by some 2226 subs and run active via an BSS Omnidrive and some Crown CTS amps.

Kind regards
//RoB

65501

[GordonW]

I'm seriously thinking about getting four of these, to go with four 2447H horn drivers I have here. Yes, I know I will have to brace up the back of the horn driver significantly!

Unfortunately, JBL seems to be out of these for about 2 months?! Aagh. :(

Regards,
Gordon.

[uroford]

Hello Sebackman,
When you talk about the 1" version do you mean this http://reconingspeakers.com/product/jbl-jrx-prx600-sf-replacement-horn-lens-338800-001?
Thanks,
-Steve

[sebackman]

Hi Steve,

Yes, those are the right ones. They have the same geometry as the VTX horn but in 1” version. Albeit much simpler in construction they sound and measure very well. If you search on this forum I think Widget and Zilch (RIP) posted some measures a while back when they were testing 1,5” horns.

Maybe this is a mark II version that look reasonable the same but may be slightly changed as with the VTX vs older PT as I'm getting very good results. The way they are built you need a driver support behind the horn. I also treat them with some rubber compound on the rear side to get them more acoustic dead and dampen the rather thin plastic. Don't know if it makes any difference but it feels better :-). The VTX horn is much sturdier.

I'm swapping out all my older 2370’s and others for this horn with good results. All my boxes are for home use so there are probably other horns that throw longer under controlled forms but I don't need that. I found that for home use, this is a real gem for 1" drivers. -Especially with an alu diaphragm.

Kind regards
//RoB

[sebackman]

Small correction of typo above.

Above the 1” horn/driver combo is if course 1”/2426 (not 2226) and with either 2226 or 2206 woofers.

The third graph is a 2451Ti 1,5” (not 2450Ti 2”) with VTX horns.

All the best
//RoB

[Dave M]

Hi Sebackman,
Thank you for the posts.
A question, #5006815 can be used for 2450SL without a custom adapter (something like you have made for M2 waveguide) ?

[sebackman]

Hi,

2450SL and 243* will bolt right up. 2451 and 2447 will need an adapter. I have both setups and there is no sonic or measurable difference with or without adapter.


I have had a version of the adaptor made and can post the drawing if desired.

kind regards
// RoB

[Dave M]

Hi Rob, thank you for the quick reply.

I only have 2450SL, so drawing is not needed, thanks.
Your graph with 2450SL is pretty impressive, indeed.
My system is MTM configuration (DMS-1), so this horn must be the perfect upgrade from 2332.


Hi,

2450SL and 243* will bolt right up. 2451 and 2447 will need an adapter. I have both setups and there is no sonic or measurable difference with or without adapter.


I have had a version of the adaptor made and can post the drawing if desired.

kind regards
// RoB

[NWCgrad]

Has anyone tried the 2453H-SL CD with the VTX waveguide? I am in preliminary stage of a new build and this combo is on my short list.

Planning on running with a 2206, XO close to 1 kHz. I think the STX825 has an XO of 1.3 kHz and the VTX is active but seems to be less than 1.5 kHz based on the spec sheet.

[NWCgrad]

The 1" version is also good and I have several friends changing plans when they heard the 1"/2226 combo with either 2206 or 2226. Personally I think the 2206 sound better as the XO will have to be >1kHz for the 1” driver horn combo. Just for trying I swapped in a Radian alu diaphragm in the 2426 on the 1" waveguide and that was a fantastic combo with the 2206. -Well worth a thought as the 2426 may be easier to come by.

Kind regards
//RoB



Hi RoB,

Is the 1" version the same size as the 1.5" VTX horn? I am planning my next build and it will be pretty expensive, I currently have B&C DE250 CD's on Eminence H290 horns, if the ytwo JBL horns are the same size I could keep my B&C DE250 CD's for now and upgrade later to the 1.5" horn with one of the 4" aquaplas JBL CD's.

This iterative step could only work if the two JBL horns have the same baffle rebate as I would want an easy replacement.

Will be using active DSP and have measurement equipment so the XO change should be fairly painless.

Thanks,
Steve

[sebackman]

Hi NWCgrad,

Sorry for the late reply.

Yes, they are the same size with the same bolt pattern. However the 1" is a completely different animal than the 1,5" and more as the old PT waveguide where the VTX waveguide is closer to the M2 waveguide. I understand that they may look the same in a picture but in reality they are very different, both sonically and measurement.

2453SL should be fine but I would recommend 2450SL/2451SL/2352 due to the different phase plug that I find suit the horn better.

Kind regards
//RoB

7227172272

[NWCgrad]

Thanks for the information. It would be easiest to start with the VTX horn and the 1.5" CD. Really appreciate the info on the differences between the 4" CD's. Will go with onexcursion of the three listed and not the 2353SL.

[sebackman]

Here is a better picture over the differences. Please check with others and your ears, the above statement is just my personal 25 cents :-).

[Dave M]

I'm wondering if this waveguide is the exact the same front size as 2332.
I mean if they are exchangeable each other without cabinet modification.

Thank you again.

[pos]

If it is like the original PT (and I am 99.9% sure it is) then yes the dimensions are identical, but the mounting holes are not.

[cguyome]

Hi,

2450SL and 243* will bolt right up. 2451 and 2447 will need an adapter. I have both setups and there is no sonic or measurable difference with or without adapter.


I have had a version of the adaptor made and can post the drawing if desired.

kind regards
// RoB
Hi RoB,

Thank you for having shared your results with the VTX horn. I would like to use them with my 2447 so can you post the drawing for the adaptor you have made ?

Many thanks and have a nice day,

Guyome.

[sebackman]

Hi,

Sorry for the delay. Attached is the rather crude drawing I used.

Kind regards

//RoB

73670

[cguyome]

Thank you RoB :)

[cguyome]

Hello RoB,

Since you have also tested the M2 horn with the same drivers, is the M2 horn worth the money compared to the VTX horn ?

Thanks and have a nice day,

Guyome.

[sebackman]

Hi,

Difficult question…

The M2 system is probably among the most neutral sounding system on the planet. I heard them and Everest II last week in NYC and both are spectacular. For us DYI’ers the question is if we want to try to copy them or build something according our own thoughts and/or use drivers we already have.

I typically go for the latter, knowing that with my limited measuring capabilities and time restrictions I will never get to the “M2 package” level. However by using good components and careful design I can get reasonable/acceptable close and be happy that it was my design. But an M2 it will never be.

Regarding M2 waveguide it depends on what you aim for. If you are aiming to make a true M2 clone with electronics and dsp you are better off making it as close to the original M2 as possible, as “M2” is a system and not “a speaker”. It’s a complex mix.

If cabinet size is no restriction and you have a well behaved room (large and/or well dampened) the M2 horn may have an edge due to the way it deals with indirect sound. -Even in a different cabinet and a different woofer.

If you have a “normal” room with some hard walls and/or limited size the more direct sound from the VTX may be an advantage.

Sound wise I would argue that the VTX has a similar sound as the M2. M2 uses indirect sound more to get a very even curve in listening position over a large area. If you can accept a smaller sweet spot and/or have hard walls the smaller sweet spot of the VTX may be an advantage.

M2 uses the D2 driver and if you, like me, go for a different driver (read 4”) then you will have to determine your own EQ and XO points. Not very difficult but more work. And easier with VTX than M2.

I built 2 pairs of VTX F12 clones (2206/2450SL) and they sound fantastic. I did build a M2 “wannabe” with a 475Nd and LE1400H with the full BSS DSP support and in a large room they sound very neutral. Albeit LE1400H is not as good as the 2216Nd, but I did have them at hand. DSP can bring you closer, but probably not all the way.

In my HT (5.2) I use 2451Be’s with 045Ti’s above and there I currently run VTX horns. I do have a full M2 horn set sitting idle in the shop but haven’t really found energy to build the new ones as the VTX sounds so good. I run the system off a BSS BLU800 dsp.

I will probably build a M2 based 5.2 set this winter (or next...) but more because I have the pieces than sheer need. I could live happy with the VTX system.

Worth noting is that I run 2451Be’s that roll off pretty quickly after 12-14k and will hence use 045ti’s above, as today with the VTX horns. It is probably not needed but to my ears the sound is more “light” with them than without them. Even at very high XO points, > 15kHz. It should not be and maybe it is just placebo, but that is what I hear.

If did not have the Be’s in my possession I would run coated SL dia’s (2450SL or 475Nd) and be done. No 045’s, just as I do in my 2-way “Compact Monitor”. There is no need for 045’s with the 475Nd diaphragms in my opinion. Probably the same thing with D2 as JBL made the 2347 2-way. A 2-way system is much easier to get “integrated” than a 3-way and that is worth giving some thought.

Be’s sounds slightly better in the mid’s and I prefer the 3-way system with them as they fall off quicker.

Two of my friends have built HT’s recently and one is running M2’s and the other VTX. Both with 476Nd’s and they both sound very good indeed.

From my point of view and for me not going for making exact M2 clones I would argue that it is not worth to go for M2 horns. The VTX horns behave very well and are easier to equalize.

They do not go down to 800Hz as the M2 and should be XO’d at 1-1400kHz with a 24LR slope. This may limit the number of woofers that can go this high but for sure many of the fine new JBL 12” ad 15” would do this without any problem.

Hope this helps

//RoB

[Dave M]

Hi Rob, thank you for posting an interesting review about M2 and VFX. :)

I'm in NY, can I still hear them?

[cguyome]

Thank you very much RoB for your complete answer.

I think a good choice could also be the horn of the VTX M serie. But I cannot find the reference of this horn. I will revert if I find it :)

Regards,

Guillaume.

[emilime75]

Sorry if it's been mentioned and I missed it. What is the recess for on the adapter plate? Is it necessary? If it is, the drawing and the note on scale has me a bit confused...is it 1mm, or 6mm deep? I'm guessing 1mm, since the the overall plate thickness is 7mm and that would leave just 1 mm thickness. Or, is it intended to bring the CD as close as possible to the guide?

Also, the 38mm center hole...equals 1.496" "Merican" ;) It looks like I'll have to try and make these myself, will it make a difference if I cut a 1.5" hole?

[maxwedge]

An't jack difference between 1.496" and 1.5". That's .002" on the radius.
I made an adapter out of 1/2" mdf and milled it all out using a router. Basically I laid my bolt circle, drilled the holes for the driver studs, drilled my center pilot hole for my jasper jig, used the router with jig to mill out the area for the horn flange approx 3/16" deep or more if you want a gasket and then drill the 1.5" center hole last. Then you have to notch the horn flange to fit the larger bolt circle and since the flange fits flush in the adapter you just use some large washers under the mounting nuts. It ends up adding 1/4" to the depth of the driver on the horn but it sounds fine.

But just go get some 2450SL because there is a bunch of them on Ebay right now for $129 ea + shipping and they are nice! Much easier solution lol!:dont-know:

[emilime75]

I've already got 2447s with new Aquaplas diaphragms, and like them very much. Plus, I need 5, so I'd rather not spend $850 for different CDs if I don't have to.

So, based on your adapter description, the idea is to make the center of it thin to bring the CD as close as possible to the guide. I figured the small difference between 38mm and 1.5" wouldn't matter, so I'll be taking a crack at making my own.

Anyone else have any thoughts or tips? Was hoping Rob(sebackman) would chime in, since he sort of pioneered this whole thing.

[maxwedge]

I totally get "use what you have". I have a pair of 2447s too but I sure don't like the idea of a 23 lbs driver on the back of that little horn because it seems flexy enough with a 10 Lbs 2450SL. :dont-know:

I added a few pictures. I designed it to support the driver as you can see but have now gone to 2450SLs. The milled down area is a bit rough for the horn flange area because I was winging it trying to make it but I've since figured out how to do a better job! :crying:

[emilime75]

Is there a build thread on those? Looks interesting.

Yes, they're heavy, and bracing to support the weight was in the plans. Thanks for the photos, they're very helpful. In fact, they sort of confirm a thought I had, and that is that an adapter may not be needed.

My idea is to cut 4 notches in the flange to allow the larger diameter CD bolts to clear it, then use washers, or, 2 piece clamshell type ring to sandwich the flange with it and the driver. This places the driver right up against the guide flange, with no setback. I couldn't find any photos to help illustrate this, but imagine a large washer, cut in half to make 2 half circles. Drill holes in each half in the CD mounting bolts locations. Sandwich the flange between the CD and the half round washers, then bolt it all together. If done right, the notches for the bolts would assist in locating the CD center on the flange, and a thin gasket would help keep it from sliding or shifting out of alignment...

...and, having just thought all that through, I can envision a way to enlarge the guide flange using either wood or PVC flat stock and some epoxy, then simply drilling the holes needed and bolting the driver on directly. Time to get some ordered, and it looks like they're on sale right now :)

[maxwedge]

Yep. When I was 1st messing with these I just notched the horn flange and just used washers, not very pretty though. I thought about the clam shell idea too. Or you can make a plastic ring to enlarge the flange and glue it on plus maybe an alum 1/8" backing plate glued to the back of the whole flange to support it all.

No build guide on my speaker but have been thinking of it. It's my center for my home theater system.

[Dave M]

I'm afraid that the adapter affects the flare rate.

http://www.jblpro.com/ProductAttachments/tn_v1n21.pdf

[maxwedge]

It added 6 mm to depth of the throat but I agree I suppose. But like I said, it sounded fine and I felt I needed to support the weight of the driver. Thinner metal plate would be better.

[DES-1]

If the new VTX F12/F15 is a third iteration is an open question as JBL has not posted “Exploded Views” for them yet.


Has anyone come across the exploded views? Would appreciate a copy posted or a link.


EDIT: Ah, haven't searched for awhile but think these will suffice:

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/VTX%20Series/VTX_F12_REV_A_0915.pdf

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/VTX%20Series/VTX_F15_REV_A_0915.pdf

Dave

[Dave M]

It added 6 mm to depth of the throat but I agree I suppose. But like I said, it sounded fine and I felt I needed to support the weight of the driver. Thinner metal plate would be better.

Many people still prefer older drivers with a snout than modern snout-less ones, so the thick adapter can be an improvement. :)

[emilime75]

Many people still prefer older drivers with a snout than modern snout-less ones, so the thick adapter can be an improvement. :)

Except when it isn't. Depends on the driver/horn combo.

[maxwedge]

Just so you know, bolting on a 2447 to that wave guide is equal to having a 3/4" to 1" spacer, compared to a 2450sl or other newer drivers. ;)
Don't want to cut out the screen to be exact but the phase plugs on my 2447s look to be about an inch back where as the 2450sl, 2451 and newer it is flush with the screen. 6mm sounded fine and the same without it.:dont-know:

[mica]

Hi all,

Does anyone know the exact layout of holes for mounting stx825 horn (5006815)?
Thanks.

Mica

[sebackman]

Dear all,

The flange of the STX/F12/F15 waveguide is 113,5mm out diameter, pretty close to 4,5".

There are two set of bolt circles:
For the D2 with 70mm diameter and two bolt holes
For the 2450SL, 243X, 2453 aso with 82,5mm and with 4 bolt holes.

The bigger bolt circle for the 2451 is half of the hole outside the WG. That iswhy I did adapter plates described above. I could not get another mount strongenough to hold the driver hanging and keep centered over time.

In my adapter drawing the thickness of the adapter is alittle less that 1mm which seem to work fine. Originally I had a thicker platebut that was not as good when measured with 2451/475Nd drivers. A 6-10mmdistance was clearly measurable as an un-even curve.
Pictures will follow soon

Kind regards
//Robert

[sebackman]

79621796227962379624

[ivica]

Dear all,

The flange of the STX/F12/F15 waveguide is 113,5mm out diameter, pretty close to 4,5".

There are two set of bolt circles:
For the D2 with 70mm diameter and two bolt holes
For the 2450SL, 243X, 2453 aso with 82,5mm and with 4 bolt holes.

The bigger bolt circle for the 2451 is half of the hole outside the WG. That iswhy I did adapter plates described above. I could not get another mount strongenough to hold the driver hanging and keep centered over time.

In my adapter drawing the thickness of the adapter is alittle less that 1mm which seem to work fine. Originally I had a thicker platebut that was not as good when measured with 2451/475Nd drivers. A 6-10mmdistance was clearly measurable as an un-even curve.
Pictures will follow soon

Kind regards
//Robert


HI Robert,

Can You give us the positions of the holes for fixing the horn to the baffle?

Thanks
ivica

[sebackman]

Dear all,

The waveguides are 6,5” (165mm) by 12” (305mm) outer front measurement.

The corners are rounded with a radious of about 1,25-1,5”.

The mounting holes are 5,5mm wide and the recess for the screw head is 9,6mm wide.

There are two mounting holes for screws on the sides end and three on top and bottom, all in all 10 screw holes.

On the sides the holes are 52mm in from the edge and the distance between the holes are 61mm. (52mm + 61mm + 52mm = 165mm)

On the top and bottom the outer holes are 54,5mm in from the edge and the distance between the holes are 98mm. (54,5mm + 98mm + 98mm + 54,5mm = 305mm).

Kind regards
//Rob

[mica]

Dear all,

The waveguides are 6,5” (165mm) by 12” (305mm) outer front measurement.

The corners are rounded with a radious of about 1,25-1,5”.

The mounting holes are 5,5mm wide and the recess for the screw head is 9,6mm wide.

There are two mounting holes for screws on the sides end and three on top and bottom, all in all 10 screw holes.

On the sides the holes are 52mm in from the edge and the distance between the holes are 61mm. (52mm + 61mm + 52mm = 165mm)

On the top and bottom the outer holes are 54,5mm in from the edge and the distance between the holes are 98mm. (54,5mm + 98mm + 98mm + 54,5mm = 305mm).

Kind regards
//Rob


Hi Rob,

Thank you very much.
That's the information that can help a lot but still missing the rectangle dimensions that the holes are placed on.
Can you measure that precisely?

Mica

[Dave M]

Hi Rob, I finally got those waveguide last year, and they do sound good. Thanks a lot. :)

[ivica]

Dear all,

The waveguides are 6,5” (165mm) by 12” (305mm) outer front measurement.
The corners are rounded with a radious of about 1,25-1,5”.
The mounting holes are 5,5mm wide and the recess for the screw head is 9,6mm wide.
There are two mounting holes for screws on the sides end and three on top and bottom, all in all 10 screw holes.
On the sides the holes are 52mm in from the edge and the distance between the holes are 61mm. (52mm + 61mm + 52mm = 165mm)
On the top and bottom the outer holes are 54,5mm in from the edge and the distance between the holes are 98mm. (54,5mm + 98mm + 98mm + 54,5mm = 305mm).

Kind regards
//Rob

Hi sebackman,

Many thanks for the data You have sent to us, but for me these numbers are very strange, almost as are generated by the 'random generator'
so I would expect that these date have some "expect-able inch raster data: such as:

1. The horn overall size are: 6 8/16 inch x 12 inch

2. Side holes are distanced from the top or bottom edges 2 1/16 inch (so the distance between the side holes are 2 6/16 inch).
2 1/16 + 2 6/16 + 2 1/16 = 6 8/16 = 6.5 inch

3. Upper and bottom side holes are distanced from the side edges 2 1/8 inch, and the distance between holes are 3 7/8 inch.
2 1/8 + 3 7/8 + 3 7/8 + 2 1/8 = 10 16/8 = 12 inch

4. I have no idea how fare the holes are from the horn outer edges but I can guess to be about 3/8 inc,
so the distance from the upper holes row and lower holes rows to be 5 3/4 inch ( 6 2/4 - 3/8 -3/8 = 5 3/4 inch)

5. Under such data the distance between side rows holes would be 11 1/4 inch ( 12 - 3/8 - 3/8 = 11 1/4 inch)

6. The hole diameter , I would expect to be 7/32 inch

All these data are just my IMAGINATION , and now I have no opportunity to check them.

Anyhow, Rob many thanks for Your effort to help us.

Regards
Ivica

[sebackman]

Hi Ivica,

Agreed, but those are the actual numbers comming out of the vernier caliper. Mine is in mm so I cannot read inch measures off it, but by dividing with 25,4 you should be pretty close.

Your call.

Kind regards
//Rob

[more10]

Did you ever figure out if this is a plastic version of the PT-F95HF or a new design?

Which is the lowest cutoff frequency for hifi?

Mårten