choices choices

[chrisautosound]

I have collected for about 32 years while I listened to my LE15a 375/2395 setup with 2441 diaphragms. I cant remember how many tweeter ideas never worked out. JVC Zero 3 ribbons, BG ribbons, 2405 etc

7 years ago I added a pair of 2245 subs so concert DVDs play like real. Always used electronic xover RANE AC2/3 and bi/tri amped.

Finally two years ago I replaced the 375 with the 476Be.



Now I have been playing the Harman video game, http://harmanhowtolisten.blogspot.com/ It has made me think about the bottom end.

It sounds great but is there anything more I can do? I have woofer choices. Keep the LE15a or use a pair of these.... ?
2235 1500AL 1501AL

then the subwoofer choice...
Keep the pair of 2245 ported 8 cu ft or use 4 smaller subs? I have 8 of the REVEL 15" woofer from the sub30 (?) and the PR15 passive radiators

I am leaning towards the smaller subs because the 2245 cabs are so large I had to pair them together straight in front of me. Then cross over at 70 Hz to keep from noticing where they are. There are deep nulls. How is this avoided in a normal room except with multiple subs

I intend to keep the three way configuration, any opinions? Seal the 15 box so the "unused port" does not interact with the subs?
It playes plenty loud, I am more concerned with improving LF imaging.

I have been playnig the Harman video game, http://harmanhowtolisten.blogspot.com/ It has made me think about the very bottom end.

[timc]

I am leaning towards the smaller subs because the 2245 cabs are so large I had to pair them together straight in front of me. Then cross over at 70 Hz to keep from noticing where they are. There are deep nulls. How is this avoided in a normal room except with multiple subs


Do you mean nulls as a result from the distance between the sub and the wall?

-Tim

[richluvsound]

Given the parts you have , I would dump the LE 15 and use the TAD 12 " for lower-mid ..... Unless you are VERY well connected i would forget getting your hands the 1500 AL ... ! The LE15 is 40 years old , JBL didn't design the 1501 without making HUGE improvements .. LE15 is a dead dog in comparison ! Using the LE15 with the 476be is like putting wagon wheels on a Ducati :banghead:


Rich

[chrisautosound]

Given the parts you have , I would dump the LE 15 and use the TAD 12 " for lower-mid ..... Unless you are VERY well connected i would forget getting your hands the 1500 AL ... ! The LE15 is 40 years old , JBL didn't design the 1501 without making HUGE improvements .. LE15 is a dead dog in comparison ! Using the LE15 with the 476be is like putting wagon wheels on a Ducati :banghead:


Rich

I already have a pair of each of the 2235 1501al 1500al. the 1500AL/1501AL are new in boxes that i would preferr not to open since I will sell the surplus woofers.

[chrisautosound]

Do you mean nulls as a result from the distance between the sub and the wall?

-Tim

exactly. If I go to smaller subs the placement choices open up.

[richluvsound]

Sorry Chris ,

I didn't realise you had the woofs already ... Have you thought about using the 2245 in an Isobaric configuration ? I still think the TAD 12 would work very well and at $ 500 each you have some $$$$ left over from the sale of the 15XX al .

Nice problem to have :D

Rich

[timc]

exactly. If I go to smaller subs the placement choices open up.



What I do to get rid of this is to place the subs and mains, so that the null for the sub comes above the crossover, and the null for the main comes below. Basically i have the subs very close to the wall, and the mains around 70-90cm out (front of speakers). Then the crossover at 100Hz eliminates the problem.

-Tim

[pos]

What horns are you using with the 476Be?

[chrisautosound]

What horns are you using with the 476Be?

In another lifetime I used 4560 cabinets with the 2441/2395. Loved the not a horn sound.

So later for home use, I copied the 2395, but 27" wide.

Yet another choice.

I was wondering about doubling the number of plates, to extend the pattern control to higher frequencies.

[chrisautosound]

What I do to get rid of this is to place the subs and mains, so that the null for the sub comes above the crossover, and the null for the main comes below. Basically i have the subs very close to the wall, and the mains around 70-90cm out (front of speakers). Then the crossover at 100Hz eliminates the problem.-Timthat would work in a larger room than I have. My subs are against the front wall. So my problem is more from the masonry rear wall reflection.


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[richluvsound]

that would work in a larger room than I have. My subs are against the front wall. So my problem is more from the masonry rear wall reflection.


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Your problems have just become painfully clear !:blink: