4310 Project in the Midst

[mpremise]

First off, I just wanted to introduce myself. I'm Mike and I've been lurking these forums for a while. I've sold some stuff through the help of the forum, and I've gotten boatloads of information. However, I'd like to pick a few more brains here. I've posted these questions elsewhere and haven't gotten an overwhelming supply of answers, so any insight is welcome.

I've had the good fortune of coming across 6 original series utility gray 4310's. The cabinets are in varying conditions. I have 2 cabinets I intend to keep as original as possible, and possibly taking 2 slightly battered cabinets and trying a veneer project. The latter being a future project.

This treasure trove has left me with a handful of components to build my best possible set of 4310's. I have successfully gutted the cabinets raw and I was even more surprised to see that I can rebuild a set with either the original 123A-1, LE5-2, LE20-1 combination, or 2212, 2105, LE20-1 combination.

So here is where my questions start, as my first set what does everybody think is the better combination of components assuming they are all in decent condition, or is a combination of the two setups best? I'm certainly open to suggestions.

Secondly, the x-overs. I have six, also in varying appearance from one another. Is there a way to test the l-pads for scratchiness and noise? I had a set hooked up at one point and had large swaths of missing sound in the presence l-pad. Did a little deoxit, still no good. I know you can test a pot with a ohm meter, but when I tried, still wired into the caps, my readings seemed way off base. Is it safe to assume my readings were off because of being wired into the caps? Am I going to have to listen to each one to get a definitive answer? Is it worth just rebuilding the x-overs with new caps and pots?


Thanks
mpremise.

[Mr. Widget]

My first question is what is your goal? Do you want the most historically correct 4310 or do you want the best sounding bookshelf speaker?


Widget

[mpremise]

I think primarily I'd like the best sounding overall speaker. I suppose I wouldn't mind a mish-mash of parts, but I'd like to have a good solid listening experience.

[Mr. Widget]

The reason I asked, was because while the 4310 isn't a "bad" speaker, it isn't the best it can be either. It has a distinctive bass response that we'll assume you like and want so we can leave that alone, but beyond that it has a very forward midrange that came about in an attempt to mimic the sound of the Altec monitors that were prevalent and the de facto industry standard at the time. This can be tamed with a more sophisticated crossover or a different mid driver. The tweeter, while well made isn't very good by any objective measure. I would seriously consider changing it if I were trying to improve the speaker.

Then again, I would prefer a 4313B or L96 or something along those lines instead of the 4310... but the 4310 does have a certain look and a sound that is very cool in a retro sort of way... but if I want that, I wouldn't do anything beyond cleaning the contacts on the L-pads (or replacing them) and making sure the drivers are all working properly. I have a pair of Century L100s that are just such an item... I enjoy them for what they are and ignore their glaring deficiencies. There are those who swear that they have made a vast improvement in these vintage treasures by swapping out the caps for more musical modern caps... I wouldn't bother unless I was redoing the design of the network and changing the tweeters.


Widget

[grumpy]

... might also consider this approach
(stock drivers, complete network redesign):

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/JBL_L100.htm

[mpremise]

This is exactly the discussion I was hoping to spark. I know these aren't "audiophile" speakers. However, I do feel they are relevant. I think choose one set of components and rebuild an "original" set as a start.

Does anyone have particular preferences in the component set? The 2212 set or the 123A-1 set?

I really like the ideas set forth in the L100 link and would like to undertake the crossover rebuild as well.

Maybe my best approach would be to restore an original set, with original components, and then build the upgraded x-over to swap in, while keeping the original x-over boxed up and safe.

[mpremise]

Widget just informed me that the components are the same just different model numbers. Thanks again, for everyone's input thus far.