Behringer DCX2496 digital x-over any good [Archive] - Page 2

Earl K

05-01-2010, 12:59 PM

Communication Port nothing?

Step One : Should be to select ( from a drop-down menu ) the communication port that you have your RS-232 "null" cable hooked up to ( on the way to the DCX2496 ) .

Step Two : Would be to click the "Search DCX2496's " button .

- If you have built your cable correctly and/or if you are using the proper 232 cable ( I'll assume the "null" type is correct ) / then the software query will find the DCX2496 and return with the relevant "hand-shaking" information ( assuming you've set up the communication port correctly ) .

- If this "Search DCX2496" query is successful, then the returning info-results will be automatically displayed in ( filled into ) the 2 text windows called "Recognized Devices" & "Device Information" .

- Having No" information displayed in these boxes means your "Search DCX2496's " query is failing ( either because of a cable issue and/or you don't have the "Communication Port" properly setup to talk to the now "232" cabled DCX22496 . Additionally, you may need to go into the DCXs Utility menu to enable/activate/allow some form of remote control / via the RS-232 ( look for "Enable Serial Control" or something logically similar ) .

Step Three : Once you see "device" info displayed ( in "Recognized Devices" & "Device Information" box ) then & only then can you start a synchronizing routine ( one direction or the other ) .
- The "Synchronize" button is disabled ( grayed-out ) until you've actually succcessfully accomplished Steps 1 & 2 .

<> cheers

boputnam

05-01-2010, 02:18 PM

Ashley, both Earl and I are trying to get you to do the same thing...

I think you missed the most important drop down - the one that asks: Communications port?

You have to tell the software how the PC is communicating to the DCX.

Then, hit Search and it will try and synch with the DCX.

Step One : Should be to select ( from a drop-down menu ) the communication port that you have your RS-232 "null" cable hooked up to ( on the way to the DCX2496 ) .

You must pull that drop-down menu and select the port being used on the PC.

JBL 4645

05-01-2010, 03:56 PM

bop/Earl

Cheers guys

Earl, more on the serial port where on the pc is and how to enable this device it could well be it’s been deactivated.

bop, The drop down menu is (empty) nothing inside it its (blank white) so sigh, what’s the next step.

Earl K

05-01-2010, 04:45 PM

bop/Earl

Cheers guys

- Earl, more on the serial port, where on the PC(s)' ( operating system is it ? ) .
- How do I enable this device ( since ) it could well ( have ) been deactivated.

bop, The drop down menu is (empty) nothing inside it its (blank white) so sigh, what’s the next step.

Ashley, I've corrected your grammar to reflect what I think it was you were asking me .

- The truth is , I don't know since I'm a long time Mac person who got into PCs after RS-232 ports were retired ( in place of the USB standard ) .

- You need an experienced PC IT tech who knows how to activate dormant communication ports .

- Sorry I can't help :(

<. cheers

grumpy

05-01-2010, 05:15 PM

1) Earlier version of manual (for 1.14 related software, grab pdf on same page):

http://behringer-en.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/54/session/L3NpZC9UcDV3MlEtag%3D%3D/kw/DCX2496%20software/r_id/166/sno/2

seems to indicate a -straight- through cable. If correct, I apologize for assuming that
someone that was an actual user, and normally spot-on, caused you to cut up a cable.

2) Other support from Behringer has indicated that using small fonts (set in Windows
Control Panel) has helped
characters to show up in their (apparently poorly designed) user interface.

3) Can check for serial port "activation" or not in the BIOS settings for your computer.

Apparently this has been a troublesome unit for folks attempting to use the software
and/or update their firmware.

JBL 4645

05-01-2010, 06:27 PM

Ashley, I've corrected your grammar to reflect what I think it was you were asking me .

- The truth is , I don't know since I'm a long time Mac person who got into PCs after RS-232 ports were retired ( for the USB standard ) .

- You need an experienced PC IT tech who knows how to activate dormant communication ports .

- Sorry I can't help :(

<. cheers

You know that is what the guy said, in the shop down the road. Not much call for RS-232 leads today.

I could ask down the road.

Cheers thou.

JBL 4645

05-01-2010, 06:37 PM

boputnam

05-02-2010, 12:33 PM

3) Can check for serial port "activation" or not in the BIOS settings for your computer.I'm not an expert on this, but I think you can also:

1. Go to your Desktop.
2. Right-click on the "My Computer" icon - then select "Properties"
3. On "Hardware" tab, click "Device Manager" button
4. Click on the "+" symbol at "Ports (COM & LPT)" - it should the show one for "Communications Port (COM1), and one for ECP Printer Port (LPT1).
5. Right-click on "Communications Port (COM1)" - then select "Properties"
This should show you if the device is enabled and functioning. If it is enabled and functioning properly, "Cancel" out and Close each prior window.

Heather (or anybody) - am I right on this?

We still need to ensure you are using the proper cable. Up above, (someone) suggested they were using a null modem cable with good results. grumpy finds a straight-thru is needed. ??

hjames

05-02-2010, 01:10 PM

Sounds right to me Bo, that'd be the case on Win98 and 2k - but ... I'm on Macs at home these days, and they work a bit ... differently ...

I'm not an expert on this, but I think you can also:

1. Go to your Desktop.
2. Right-click on the "My Computer" icon - then select "Properties"
3. On "Hardware" tab, click "Device Manager" button
4. Click on the "+" symbol at "Ports (COM & LPT)" - it should the show one for "Communications Port (COM1), and one for ECP Printer Port (LPT1).
5. Right-click on "Communications Port (COM1)" - then select "Properties"
This should show you if the device is enabled and functioning. If it is enabled and functioning properly, "Cancel" out and Close each prior window.

Heather (or anybody) - am I right on this?

We still need to ensure you are using the proper cable. Up above, (someone) suggested they were using a null modem cable with good results. grumpy finds a straight-thru is needed. ??

grumpy

05-02-2010, 02:55 PM

yep (re checking serial port). but if it's turned off at the BIOS level, I don't think it shows up
as a device at the O/S level (could be wrong)... and if it's on at the BIOS level, it would
automatically be detected and on at the O/S level.

Reasonable to check via the Device Manager though :)

Straight through vs. null-modem? probably quicker to try both than go through
Behringer support, although that's certainly an option.

boputnam

05-02-2010, 05:36 PM

Straight through vs. null-modem? probably quicker to try both than go through Behringer support...Love it! :rotfl:

Mike Caldwell

05-02-2010, 06:16 PM

Behringer support

He said "Behringer support":rotfl:

JBL 4645

05-03-2010, 11:01 AM

I'm not an expert on this, but I think you can also:

1. Go to your Desktop.
2. Right-click on the "My Computer" icon - then select "Properties"
3. On "Hardware" tab, click "Device Manager" button
4. Click on the "+" symbol at "Ports (COM & LPT)" - it should the show one for "Communications Port (COM1), and one for ECP Printer Port (LPT1).
5. Right-click on "Communications Port (COM1)" - then select "Properties"
This should show you if the device is enabled and functioning. If it is enabled and functioning properly, "Cancel" out and Close each prior window.

Heather (or anybody) - am I right on this?

We still need to ensure you are using the proper cable. Up above, (someone) suggested they were using a null modem cable with good results. grumpy finds a straight-thru is needed. ??

bop

Well that was bit of dogs dinner to find.

Care to pick one? I don't see the word "Ports"?

grumpy

05-03-2010, 12:52 PM

... which is why I suggested you might wish to check the BIOS settings... to verify that
the ports on your system are enabled. You will likely have to hold down the "Del", "Esc", or
"F2" key as the system first is powered on (it should -briefly- give you specific instructions
on the screen) to be able to modify the BIOS settings.

JBL 4645

05-03-2010, 01:48 PM

hjames

05-03-2010, 01:59 PM

grumpy

I just tried it and nothing happened. Now that is rather odd?

Any ideas as to why nothing happened?
Did you do a full power down with your computer, wait 60 seconds, and then power it up again?
Depending on the kind of BIOS (Basic Input Output system - its the firmware that actually manages your computer's devices/hardware)-
anyway, depending on the brand of the BIOS, the keys required may vary.
Usually its hold down the F2 key as you power the machine up and it will access the BIOS settings ...
this is before Windows itself actually starts to boot ...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BIOS

grumpy

05-03-2010, 03:03 PM

+1

Wrong key? ... should see a screen something like this:

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/c/c8/AwardBIOS_CMOS_Setup_Utility.png

serial port enable/disable settings are probably under "integrated peripherals"
(guessing a bit, not having a PC in-hand).

JBL 4645

05-03-2010, 03:03 PM

boputnam

05-03-2010, 04:36 PM

bop

Well that was bit of dogs dinner to find.

Care to pick one? I don't see the word "Ports"?

Mine, is attached. Ports are circled. Yours are not enabled, it seems.

... which is why I suggested you might wish to check the BIOS settings... to verify that the ports on your system are enabled. You will likely have to hold down the "Del", "Esc", or "F2" key as the system first is powered on (it should -briefly- give you specific instructions on the screen) to be able to modify the BIOS settings.Make sure you do this during the boot - not after. If you miss, re-boot and try again until you get the screen grumpy is talking about. If you get into that BIOS screen and don't feel comfortable :confused: just Exit without saving changes.

JBL 4645

05-04-2010, 04:07 AM

Did you do a full power down with your computer, wait 60 seconds, and then power it up again?
Depending on the kind of BIOS (Basic Input Output system - its the firmware that actually manages your computer's devices/hardware)-
anyway, depending on the brand of the BIOS, the keys required may vary.
Usually its hold down the F2 key as you power the machine up and it will access the BIOS settings ...
this is before Windows itself actually starts to boot ...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BIOS

Yes I waited and then pressed the F2 key nothing happened.

Guys and dolls cheers but I give in.

Maybe I need a newer faster pc, this is a relic what I’m running.

Okay, okay, okay, I might give it another try later and report back, I’m just so frustrated with it at the moment.:banghead:

Cheers

Mine, is attached. Ports are circled. Yours are not enabled, it seems.

Make sure you do this during the boot - not after. If you miss, re-boot and try again until you get the screen grumpy is talking about. If you get into that BIOS screen and don't feel comfortable :confused: just Exit without saving changes.

bop

Well, that is beginning it would appear it’s disabled or possibly broken or other.

I’ll look into it later in the day.

Cheers

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=45500&stc=1&d=1272909711

Seems to be missing between (network adaptors and processors)?

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=45516&stc=1&d=1272929988

hjames

05-04-2010, 06:42 AM

Yes I waited and then pressed the F2 key nothing happened.

Guys and dolls cheers but I give in.

Maybe I need a newer faster pc, this is a relic what I’m running.

Okay, okay, okay, I might give it another try later and report back, I’m just so frustrated with it at the moment.:banghead:

Well, the trick is that different computers use different key commands to access the BIOS at startup - Apparently, yours does not use F2 ...
You'll have to do some research and find what your computer DOES use to access BIOS - they all have SOME kind of keystroke/sequence ...

Is your computer any kind of a regular brand like DELL or HP, or is it some off brand?

grumpy

05-04-2010, 07:04 AM

JBL 4645

05-04-2010, 07:37 AM

Well, the trick is that different computers use different key commands to access the BIOS at startup - Apparently, yours does not use F2 ...
You'll have to do some research and find what your computer DOES use to access BIOS - they all have SOME kind of keystroke/sequence ...

Is your computer any kind of a regular brand like DELL or HP, or is it some off brand?

I think that will be like shooting in dark.

I’d have to get in contact with the guy that (gave me the pc) He might have an idea as to which key will bring the BIOS up.

No its Compaq professional deskpro if that helps?

JBL 4645

05-04-2010, 07:40 AM

the "Del" key is often used as well... again, there -should- be a brief bit of info that comes
on the screen that actually -says- which key to hit to enter BIOS mode... maybe only for a
second or two, not long after power-up.

Note that many new laptops don't even come with serial ports any more... a USB->serial
adapter would be required.

Is that so?

So how long did it take for, you to connect up the pc to DCX2496 to get any joy out of it.

I have other programs that run smoothly on the pc. Why this one, huh?

grumpy

05-04-2010, 08:09 AM

I would not own a DCX2496 to begin with.

Sorry Ash. My brand of help appears to be frustrating more than anything. Good luck.

hjames

05-04-2010, 09:22 AM

I think that will be like shooting in dark.

I’d have to get in contact with the guy that (gave me the pc) He might have an idea as to which key will bring the BIOS up.

No its Compaq professional deskpro if that helps?

So - you can go to the COMPAQ website, go to their suppoort, and find out how to get to the BIOS settings ...

Why guess, when the web can help you find it!!

boputnam

05-04-2010, 11:14 AM

Note that many new laptops don't even come with serial ports any more... a USB->serial adapter would be required.And, Ashley, you can go this route, too - you have USB controllers showing on your hardward profile. You will still need the correct modem cord (null or straight thru), but will use a USB port and an USB->serial adapter - these come with a CD containing the needed software. This is how my laptops communicate with my DSP's.

I would not own a DCX2496 to begin with.:dead_horse:

:p

JBL 4645

05-04-2010, 12:52 PM

I would not own a DCX2496 to begin with.

Sorry Ash. My brand of help appears to be frustrating more than anything. Good luck.

grumpy

Well I tried what Heather suggested a second time and nothing on the F2 key?

Well at least I know what is wrong now. Thanks for the input. I need to ask the chap, which key? I’m not going to start pressing all the (F keys) it might be wired up to an ejector seat!:D

JBL 4645

05-04-2010, 12:55 PM

So - you can go to the COMPAQ website, go to their suppoort, and find out how to get to the BIOS settings ...

Why guess, when the web can help you find it!!

I can! I take it, it doesn’t matter which keyboard it’s connected too?

I’ll head on over and see what they can come up with, cheers.

JBL 4645

05-04-2010, 12:59 PM

And, Ashley, you can go this route, too - you have USB controllers showing on your hardward profile. You will still need the correct modem cord (null or straight thru), but will use a USB port and an USB->serial adapter - these come with a CD containing the needed software. This is how my laptops communicate with my DSP's.

:dead_horse:

:p

bop

LOL I think I’ll take a pass on that LOL yes it would be beating a dead hoarse, I mean (flogging a dead hoarse). :D

I could kick the pc and see if that helps.:p

All that for nothing. Cutting up lead and swapping the wires around getting my hopes up and...:banghead: LOL

JBL 4645

05-04-2010, 01:22 PM

Okay I inputted a several keywords in Google and found this site.

http://forums11.itrc.hp.com/service/forums/questionanswer.do?admit=109447626+1273003557319+28 353475&threadId=511354

For this pc its (F10) sigh

Now what is it that I should be looking for to enable the (port)?

Mine, is attached. Ports are circled. Yours are not enabled, it seems.

Make sure you do this during the boot - not after. If you miss, re-boot and try again until you get the screen grumpy is talking about. If you get into that BIOS screen and don't feel comfortable :confused: just Exit without saving changes.

Otherwise I could screw the pc right up! :(

What could it be under in the BIOS? I had a look though (I was look for anything that said Port).

Didn’t find and it just exited out.

hjames

05-04-2010, 01:24 PM

And thats what I've done on my Mac desktop (macmin) - mac's don't have Serial ports, so I had a USB to serial adapter on my old mac ...
These days, the app I needed it for now comes in USB mode ...

bop

LOL I think I’ll take a pass on that LOL yes it would be beating a dead horse, I mean (flogging a dead horse). :D

I could kick the pc and see if that helps.:p

All that for nothing. Cutting up lead and swapping the wires around getting my hopes up and...:banghead: LOL

Well, you don't know if its for nothing yet - if its supposed to be Null modem you did the right thing - but - you just need to turn the Port on first ...

Not floggin' ya - its just - thats one reason I quit with PCs hardware functions and interrupts and all of that was such a pain to deal with! -
and I used to manage 4 serial ports (and more) when I ran a Bulletin board in the early 90s ...

best of luck to ya!

JBL 4645

05-04-2010, 01:45 PM

And thats what I've done on my Mac desktop (macmin) - mac's don't have Serial ports, so I had a USB to serial adapter on my old mac ...
These days, the app I needed it for now comes in USB mode ...

Well, you don't know if its for nothing yet - if its supposed to be Null modem you did the right thing - but - you just need to turn the Port on first ...

Not floggin' ya - its just - thats one reason I quit with PCs hardware functions and interrupts and all of that was such a pain to deal with! -
and I used to manage 4 serial ports (and more) when I ran a Bulletin board in the early 90s ...

best of luck to ya!

Yeah well least I’m aiming in the right direction (getting warmer!) LOL

It would seem many have asked the same question about the BIOS for this pc which “F key”?

Now I’m trying keywords like “compaq deskpro DB9 how to enable” needle in haystack mean anything. LOL I’m going to be here all night long, looking for the answer.

If I don’t find it this week, I’ll pop down to see the chap, and ask if he remembers or he might come on around over a weekend so it might be a while now to wait.

Hey its not an emergency! Just a frustration thing, that keeps me up all night long.

Well least I got £10.00 pounds back and brought a cheaper RS-232 lead. if you think i was going to cut a £10.00 pound lead in half your crazy.:p

Edit: I’m guessing might have been disabled when it was used at the school.

Found this site that has well looks like the holy bible for this pc!
http://www.opennet.ru/docs/FAQ/hardware/compaq-aero.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqiWIZVsJfs

grumpy

05-04-2010, 01:57 PM

go back a few pages...

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?17457-Behringer-DCX2496-digital-x-over-any-good&p=287128&viewfull=1#post287128

JBL 4645

05-04-2010, 02:10 PM

go back a few pages...

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?17457-Behringer-DCX2496-digital-x-over-any-good&p=287128&viewfull=1#post287128

Arrh yes of course.

Cheers for the reminder! :)

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/c/c8/AwardBIOS_CMOS_Setup_Utility.png

But when I pressed F10 the screen didn't look anything like the one pictured above.

grumpy

05-04-2010, 02:36 PM

JBL 4645

05-04-2010, 04:41 PM

different colors?
different BIOS manufacturer?

They don't all appear identical... just sort of similar.
AMI, Award, and Phoenix are all makers of such firmware,
and they all have different looks.

If you don't save anything, you won't hurt anything by poking around.
grumpy

It might be my own pc but I'm not going to start snooping at something I have no business doing. If I set the pc to perform a command that I don't need it might end up, being worse.

Cheers for the info I just didn't expect this whole thing to be a right dogs dinner with some frigging 5 or 6 pages, but that's why the site is here. How many days have I been at this now? LOL:blink:

Well I’ve been getting some good feedback from youtube. A chap over there mentioned “dip switches” inside the pc not much else thou.

So it’s possible the dip switches are set to mode that is not allowing the port to talk or what ever?

So I need to know more about the dip switches before tampering around with the pc. I know what dip switch is it’s the code number sequence that I need LOL.

There is one way to release tension!
Now this game is funny Beating up the pc! LMAO! Just press the mouse button and starting fisting the pc! LMAO
http://www.funny-games.biz/beatup-pc.html

If I used the fist on the CRT screen I'd break my hand! :D

hjames

05-04-2010, 06:16 PM

If you have no idea what you are doing inside your computer, you don't want to be inside your computer doing anything. Certainly don't open up your computer and start flipping hardware switches.

Really - just figure out how to do the BIOS thing, and if you can't figure that out, just sell the Behringer and stop dinking around with it.

This has gone on way too long and, as usual, is going into video games and all kind of screen cap crap that is way off the topic ...

grumpy

It might be my own pc but I'm not going to start snooping at something I have no business doing.
If I set the pc to perform a command that I don't need it might end up, being worse.

Well I’ve been getting some good feedback from youtube. A chap over there mentioned “dip switches” inside the pc not much else thou.

So it’s possible the dip switches are set to mode that is not allowing the port to talk or what ever?

There is one way to release tension!
Now this game is funny Beating up the pc! LMAO! Just press the mouse button and starting fisting the pc! LMAO
http://www.funny-games.biz/beatup-pc.html

God help us all - why aren't you going through all this stuff on the Behringer Support forums, hmmm?

grumpy

05-04-2010, 06:50 PM

hjames

05-04-2010, 06:56 PM

Ashly - is this a desktop/tower PC with a monitor, or is it actually a laptop?
I thought it was a desktop machine ...

JBL 4645

05-05-2010, 04:19 AM

If you have no idea what you are doing inside your computer, you don't want to be inside your computer doing anything. Certainly don't open up your computer and start flipping hardware switches.

Really - just figure out how to do the BIOS thing, and if you can't figure that out, just sell the Behringer and stop dinking around with it.

This has gone on way too long and, as usual, is going into video games and all kind of screen cap crap that is way off the topic ...

God help us all - why aren't you going through all this stuff on the Behringer Support forums, hmmm?

Yes well its kinder frustrating for me. and I releasing tension out on game, better than kicking the pc around the room, though it might work, might only turn out to be lose wire inside. :D LOL

You know how long it takes to get a reply on the site! About day between each email LOL.
I did this once before when I got the unit and was having issues with the settings as (all channels where muted) also the individual settings as I wanted independent control over six outputs.

Yeah no way I’m jumping inside and flipping switches. No worries I’ll ask next week when I travel down town.

I think there should be thread for problem solving as this has dragged far too, long and I'm just as fed up about it, as you. sigh

JBL 4645

05-05-2010, 04:28 AM

Ashly - is this a desktop/tower PC with a monitor, or is it actually a laptop?
I thought it was a desktop machine ...

No, no you seen the picture for it before its desk-top pc tower.

There other, pictures that shows you behind the pc are few pages back more than a few pages back, sigh.

Please excuse the mess! I've got to sweep-up and vacuum the living room! :D

JBL 4645

05-05-2010, 04:33 AM

("my bad") tower system it is... I was remembering the wrong portion of the picture.
DIP switches are possible ... a manual that matches the unit (or at least the motherboard)
would help greatly.

Final suggestion: If modifying a BIOS setting is out of your league, then messing with
RS-232 and Behringer firmware updates is RIGHT OUT. Just stick to the front panel and
be happy with it.

Cheers.

grumpy
Well it’s been working smartly for years like that now. I’m content :) with how its running. I just thought it would be 20 second thing to get the remote working with it. As its turned out its nearly 7 days now!:banghead:

hjames

05-05-2010, 08:53 AM

So, what DID the BIOS Screen look like when you pressed F10??

That sounds like you were headed in the right direction on this post!

It DID have the word BIOS on it, right?
Did it have a vendor name like AMI, Award, Phoenix, Compaq or something else?

Arrh yes of course.

Cheers for the reminder! :)

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/c/c8/AwardBIOS_CMOS_Setup_Utility.png

But when I pressed F10 the screen didn't look anything like the one pictured above.

JBL 4645

05-05-2010, 01:41 PM

So, what DID the BIOS Screen look like when you pressed F10??

That sounds like you were headed in the right direction on this post!

It DID have the word BIOS on it, right?
Did it have a vendor name like AMI, Award, Phoenix, Compaq or something else?

Is there a difference? No I can’t say I really honestly noticed?

I’ll shut down and have another look, just to make double sure!

JBL 4645

05-05-2010, 01:58 PM

Well I took this picture with the camera since I can’t use the pc to take a direct print screen or does it work when you in this mode?

Well this it what it looked like. I didn’t see the word BIOS on the screen?

boputnam

05-05-2010, 02:25 PM

And, Ashley, you can go this route, too - you have USB controllers showing on your hardward profile. You will still need the correct modem cord (null or straight thru), but will use a USB port and an USB->serial adapter - these come with a CD containing the needed software. This is how my laptops communicate with my DSP's.
Don't forget, you can avoid all this BIOS editing and just use a USB->serial adapter and maybe make some headway...

You have USB ports.

45560

grumpy

05-05-2010, 02:36 PM

http://support.radioshack.com/support_computer/doc43/43059.htm

if it's there, it will likely be under "advanced", and "device options"

...

JBL 4645

05-05-2010, 04:34 PM

Don't forget, you can avoid all this BIOS editing and just use a USB->serial adapter and maybe make some headway...

You have USB ports.

45560
bop
That looks smart! is that an Alesis crossover management system in the diagram?

JBL 4645

05-05-2010, 04:44 PM

http://support.radioshack.com/support_computer/doc43/43059.htm

if it's there, it will likely be under "advanced", and "device options"

...

Wow grumpy good field work research.:)

Its late and thou I would jump in it at, I'll get some kip in jiffy and come back to it in the morning after I've had good nights kip.

boputnam

05-05-2010, 10:27 PM

bop
That looks smart! is that an Alesis crossover management system in the diagram?No, it is the AudioCore software supporting the xta DSP's. The laptop screen images AudioCore supporting six separate DSP configs (systems), simultaneously. But, that is not the point of the posted image.

The point was to highlight the USB-serial adapter that grumpy suggested. I'm of the mind that it may be your easiest solution.

JBL 4645

05-06-2010, 01:48 AM

No, it is the AudioCore software supporting the xta DSP's. The laptop screen images AudioCore supporting six separate DSP configs (systems), simultaneously. But, that is not the point of the posted image.

The point was to highlight the USB-serial adapter that grumpy suggested. I'm of the mind that it may be your easiest solution.

bop

I took a few pictures of the possible solution (I'm not going to bother posting them) seeing this whole thing as dragged 7 days now!:banghead: I think I'll ask down the road about this "new option".

You sure that will work with my pc though the USB and is it cheap is it less than £20.00 if its over now way.

Chreers

jack_bouska

05-06-2010, 04:14 AM

xta DSP's require a one-to-one cable, but apprently not the Behringers. Oddly, their manual does not specify...
I use a rs485 network cable to daisy-chain the two dcx's so that I can simultaneously control them both from my laptop.
Unfortunately, I cannot individually address the dcx's to vary the setup on each (although the manual says this is possible.
in the end, the simultaneous control (while seated at the listening position, with music playing) is more useful than individual control (which I can use at the front panel), so I have not perused the reasons why....
jack

JBL 4645

05-06-2010, 04:47 AM

I use a rs485 network cable to daisy-chain the two dcx's so that I can simultaneously control them both from my laptop.
Unfortunately, I cannot individually address the dcx's to vary the setup on each (although the manual says this is possible.
in the end, the simultaneous control (while seated at the listening position, with music playing) is more useful than individual control (which I can use at the front panel), so I have not perused the reasons why....
jack

I think it is possible. Do you have it set to run in stereo only or 5.1 or more configuration?

I just set the output configuration to LH/LH/LH over channels 1 2 3 4 5 and 6 for the LCR fronts.

Un-checked the (stereo out link) otherwise the LF or HF moves up and down at the same time if moving one of the other. Same goes for the EQ the dynamic EQ the audio limiters the whole thing! (So I set it up for independent control).

Earl K

05-15-2010, 09:05 AM

Hi Ash,

- I've looked at the manual for the DCX / and as I suspected / one must select which data port will become active & allow the 2496 to receive control commands from the computer .
- This choice is made in the DCX unit itself .

- Since you have already failed at RS-232 control, I would suggest that you now try RS-485 protocol using a standard networking cable ( with RJ45 ends on it , I believe ) .

<> cheers

grumpy

05-15-2010, 12:30 PM

I'm wondering what RS-485 port would then be suggested to use on the computer...
Often, that is an add-on board or something that -might- come on an industrial controls
computer.

Has something as simple as verifying that the modem/terminal program that comes
with Windows works (recognizes the rs-232 port)? Hyperterminal, IIRC...

Earl K

05-15-2010, 12:39 PM

I'm wondering what RS-485 port would then be suggested to use on the computer...
Often, that is an add-on board or something that -might- come on an industrial controls
computer.

- Well "RJ45" is the same connector that's found on a computers EtherNet ( Networking ) port .

- I'd just buy a networking cable / plug it in ( to the computers' networking port ) / & give it a go .
- One may need to reboot ( if the Behringer was powered up last ) for the hand-shaking to start up between the two units .

- A company that I do work for has one of these DCX units ( & I now have the software ).

So ;

- I'll borrow their unit later next week and give this theory a test ( if Ash wants to wait ) .

<> cheers

grumpy

05-15-2010, 01:11 PM

I'd recommend a look at rs-485 spec and pinouts (regardless of connector type),
vs a cat5 network/Ethernet connection first... :)

Earl K

05-15-2010, 02:15 PM

I'd recommend a look at rs-485 spec and pinouts (regardless of connector type),
vs a cat5 network/Ethernet connection first... :)

- Well Okay, I suppose that a bit of caution is warranted .

WARNING KIDS : DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME !!!!

- FWIW ; I did a bunch of Googling yesterday on adapting the RS-485 protocol to a cat5 connection / without coming to any firm conclusion .

>< CHEERS

grumpy

05-15-2010, 02:27 PM

Nice warning. :) cat5 connectors and cabling
have been used for many things because they
are cheap, readily available, and semi-reliable.
But it's just a connector.

The chip between the connector and CPU bus
makes all the difference (serial UART vs. Ethernet
transceiver). Different o/s drivers too, to accommodate
the bus and interface.

JBL 4645

05-16-2010, 10:46 AM

- Well "RJ45" is the same connector that's found on a computers EtherNet ( Networking ) port .

- I'd just buy a networking cable / plug it in ( to the computers' networking port ) / & give it a go .
- One may need to reboot ( if the Behringer was powered up last ) for the hand-shaking to start up between the two units .

- A company that I do work for has one of these DCX units ( & I now have the software ).

So ;

- I'll borrow their unit later next week and give this theory a test ( if Ash wants to wait ) .

<> cheers

Mate, I’ve hopelessly given up on it. sigh The unit is still attached to the pc.

But I’d listen, what you have to say.

Hi Ash,

- I've looked at the manual for the DCX / and as I suspected / one must select which data port will become active & allow the 2496 to receive control commands from the computer .
- This choice is made in the DCX unit itself .

- Since you have already failed at RS-232 control, I would suggest that you now try RS-485 protocol using a standard networking cable ( with RJ45 ends on it , I believe ) .

<> cheers

I’d ask about the connector for this next week when I do the shopping.

Is there a picture of this device that connects to pc?

So basically I’d have to use a USB lead output that is working and they are all working on the pc! Use the USB as the remote to control the DCX.

But I have feeling the program might be damaged on the (installing) I even deleted it and reinstalled and it’s the same issue? Something is not right?

hjames

05-16-2010, 02:15 PM

The real question is, do you have a Network card in that tower of yours?
... 'cause, ... if you can't figure out how to get the Serial port going, and you don't have a network card already working in there now, its just another endless Digital Configuration Dance you have to learn ...

Honestly - it just may not be worth the grief if you are not up on computer port & hardware setups - but - I think we came to that answer 5 pages back, ya think?

Mate, I’ve hopelessly given up on it. sigh The unit is still attached to the pc.

But I’d listen, what you have to say.

I’d ask about the connector for this next week when I do the shopping.

Is there a picture of this device that connects to pc?

So basically I’d have to use a USB lead output that is working and they are all working on the pc! Use the USB as the remote to control the DCX.

But I have feeling the program might be damaged on the (installing) I even deleted it and reinstalled and it’s the same issue? Something is not right?

Earl K

05-21-2010, 06:56 AM

- I'd just buy a networking cable / plug it in ( to the computers' networking port ) / & give it a go .
- One may need to reboot ( if the Behringer was powered up last ) for the hand-shaking to start up between the two units .

- A company that I do work for has one of these DCX units ( & I now have the software ).

So ;

- I'll borrow their unit later next week and give this theory a test ( if Ash wants to wait ) .

Well Okay, I suppose that a bit of caution is warranted .

WARNING KIDS : DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME !!!!

- FWIW ; I did a bunch of Googling yesterday on adapting the RS-485 protocol to a cat5 connection / without coming to any firm conclusion

Well I did borrow a DCX2496 and after much dialogue with some PC gurus I did connect the DCX to my laptops RJ45 networking port with a networking cable .

Guess what ? My computer didn't blow up :p / unfortunately , as expected by this point , my computers' networking port does not do double duty as a RS485 serial port ( which would have been too easy ;) ).

My next attempt at a connectivity solution worked like a charm ( well, after a couple of hours of driver installation madness ) .

This solution was to break down and go buy a USB to Serial RS232 converter .

This is the little fella that I bought from TigerDirect here in Toronto .

http://images.highspeedbackbone.net/skuimages/large/ULT40315-vendor-sp.jpg (http://www.ultraproducts.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4143829&CatId=77)

- I got it for $14.00 ( $5.00 less than list ) .
- It comes packaged with a 24" USB to USB extension cable / which is just long enough to get the DCX up and running .
- I now need to buy at least a ten foot USB extension cable to ever use this setup, live on a gig .
- The pictured unit ships with the USB to Serial emulation drivers on a mini CD .
- Installing the included drivers is where I ran into my problems . My laptop doesn't have a tray type DVD player / it just has one of those slot-loaders ( where one slides the CD/DVD in until it disappears and you hope for the best ).
- These slot-loaders will not load the mini CD ( I tried :( ) .
- The solution was to use another computer with a tray loading DVD player and then copy the mini-discs' drivers onto that computer, to then burn a new full size install disc ( all in all a real PITA ). Or one can copy this onto a USB memory stick .
- Copying the minidisc contents onto a USB memory stick, only sort of worked for me / most likely because I was copying PC contents ( from DVD player through an old MAC onto a USB memory stick / it's a wonder any data made it through ) .

cheers <>

PS : the DCX software works as it should / and offers a few good ways ( for the inexperienced user ) to damage their speakers :eek: .

Maybe another warning is in order :

WARNING KIDS : TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN PERIL !!!!

grumpy

05-21-2010, 03:00 PM

1000 bonus points :D

JBL 4645

05-21-2010, 03:01 PM

JBL 4645

05-21-2010, 03:03 PM

Well I did borrow a DCX2496 and after much dialogue with some PC gurus I did connect the DCX to my laptops RJ45 networking port with a networking cable .

Guess what ? My computer didn't blow up :p / unfortunately , as expected by this point , my computers' networking port does not do double duty as a RS485 serial port ( which would have been too easy ;) ).

My next attempt at a connectivity solution worked like a charm ( well, after a couple of hours of driver installation madness ) .

This solution was to break down and go buy a USB to Serial RS232 converter .

This is the little fella that I bought from TigerDirect here in Toronto .

http://images.highspeedbackbone.net/skuimages/large/ULT40315-vendor-sp.jpg (http://www.ultraproducts.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4143829&CatId=77)

- I got it for $14.00 ( $5.00 less than list ) .
- It comes packaged with a 24" USB to USB extension cable / which is just long enough to get the DCX up and running .
- I now need to buy at least a ten foot USB extension cable to ever use this setup, live on a gig .
- The pictured unit ships with the USB to Serial emulation drivers on a mini CD .
- Installing the included drivers is where I ran into my problems . My laptop doesn't have a tray type DVD player / it just has one of those slot-loaders ( where one slides the CD/DVD in until it disappears and you hope for the best ).
- These slot-loaders will not load the mini CD ( I tried :( ) .
- The solution was to use another computer with a tray loading DVD player and then copy the mini-discs' drivers onto that computer, to then burn a new full size install disc ( all in all a real PITA ). Or one can copy this onto a USB memory stick .
- Copying the minidisc contents onto a USB memory stick, only sort of worked for me / most likely because I was copying PC contents ( from DVD player through an old MAC onto a USB memory stick / it's a wonder any data made it through ) .

cheers <>

PS : the DCX software works as it should / and offers a few good ways ( for the inexperienced user ) to damage their speakers :eek: .

Maybe another warning is in order :

WARNING KIDS : TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN PERIL !!!!

Oh, right gotcha right that looks simple!

Cheers :) I'll get one next week.

Wait a second!

Now what wires go where yes I’m thinking of diy strip the lead down and wire up the connections.

Unless I can buy that plug connection for less than £5.00 pounds!

JBL 4645

05-21-2010, 04:25 PM

No - I did not mean a USB Network card - I meant Network card that plugs into the system bus inside the computer and gives you a Network port on the rear panel ...
but if you don't know what I am talking about, you may not want open the PC up and plug new hardware inside it. No insult mean, but by improperly adding hardware and creating conflicts, you can foul up a working computer real easy.

That USB to Serial RS-232 adapter looks like a safer way for you to go ...

Well I don’t want to start opening the pc unless its fan that needs replacing. I made a right dogs dinner of installing the new DVD-ROM RW drive.

So what if the connector fails to remotely operate the DCX2496 could it be the download that has failed in someway, well I’ll see how it goes next week.

Cheers :)

hjames

05-21-2010, 04:34 PM

So what if the connector fails to remotely operate the DCX2496?
Could it be the download that has failed in someway?
Well, I’ll see how it goes next week.

Cheers :)

Well, it could be that you have offended God in someway
and thats why it won't work - but honestly, that isn't very likely either.
Its probably not a sort of failed download .. really, its not likely.
If the software SEEMS to be loading, that part is probably working.
:confused:
The most likely reason it doesn't work is that you still don't have any working communications port
on the computer, so there is no data path to talk to the Behringer.
Doing all this other stuff is still avoiding the likely problem. No comms, no function.
Not to be harsh, but - the most likely reason is the most likely reason -

Its real basic. Fix the comm port.
If you can't do it yourself, get someone who is computer savvy to help ...

This thread has gone nowhere for days while you still don't have serial communications to the hardware.

JBL 4645

05-21-2010, 05:11 PM

Well, it could be that you have offended God in someway
and thats why it won't work - but honestly, that isn't very likely either.
Its probably not a sort of failed download .. really, its not likely.
If the software SEEMS to be loading, that part is probably working.
:confused:
The most likely reason it doesn't work is that you still don't have any working communications port
on the computer, so there is no data path to talk to the Behringer.
Doing all this other stuff is still avoiding the likely problem. No comms, no function.
Not to be harsh, but - the most likely reason is the most likely reason -

Its real basic. Fix the comm port.
If you can't do it yourself, get someone who is computer savvy to help ...

This thread has gone nowhere for days while you still don't have serial communications to the hardware.

Yeah it’s dragged on far too long. Let’s leave it now till next week, that’s if God doesn’t strike me down with a freak lighting bolt from overhead! :p

hjames

05-21-2010, 06:11 PM

Is joke - be laughing, yes??

Anyway, hope you have a great weekend!

boputnam

05-22-2010, 07:28 PM

This solution was to break down and go buy a USB to Serial RS232 converter .Yeah, I too suggested that a few meters back (...it was the only option for my laptop).

JBL 4645

05-25-2010, 03:13 AM

I just had a chat with (D.J. Electronics, 10min ago) about the USB/RS-232 adaptor and at £10.00 pounds, well I‘ll think about. He thought, that maybe wires (4 8 9) might need changing around to get the (hand shake) working between the pc and the DCX, I didn’t say it was DCX just device.

Oh, well I’ll ask someone tomorrow if he can pop over and have look to see if the port is (enabled).

It’s a good thing I didn’t take a USB lead and chopped it up and wired it to the RS-232 lead as the adaptor is 5volt thing, and there is something in-between the casing. I could have killed the pc.:p

Mike Caldwell

05-25-2010, 12:56 PM

RS 232 adaptors USB or PCIMA are not all created equal. I know that DBX and Shure are picky if you are using and adaptor to connect to their RS232 ports.

Earl K

05-26-2010, 05:42 AM

RS 232 adapters USB or PCIMA are not all created equal. I know that DBX and Shure are picky if you are using and adapter to connect to their RS232 ports.

Right !

- The reason I purchased what I did was because the manufacturing company made the effort to post some performance specs. about their adapter .

- In my research I noticed that not all companies posted specifications for their USB-232 adapters / an omission like that triggers suspicions about the companies motives, so I just keep on researching .

Features

Chipset:Prolific PL-2303 (http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/Products.asp?ID=59)
USB Specification 1.1 compliant
Supports RS232 serial interface DB9
Supports over 1Mbps data transfer rate
Supports remote wake-up and power management
Available for USB Port
Supports: Windows 98/ME/2000/XP/Vista

It’s a good thing I didn’t take a USB lead and chopped it up and wired it to the RS-232 lead as the adaptor is 5volt thing, and there is something in-between the casing. I could have killed the pc.:p

Ash , note ; these adapters do have a chip embedded within them .

- Ie; as you suspected, you can't just whip these up out of spare parts, ( by soldering wire onto the proper ends ) .

<> cheers

http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/images/dmpdf.gif (http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/files/PL-2303%20Market%20Spec.pdf)

JBL 4645

05-26-2010, 06:49 AM

Right !

- The reason I purchased what I did was because the manufacturing company made the effort to post some performance specs. about their adapter .

- In my research I noticed that not all companies posted specifications for their USB-232 adapters / an omission like that will usually make me suspicious about the companies motives and I'll keep on researching .

Here are the specs. for the adapter that I purchased :

Features

Chipset: Prolific PL-2303
USB Specification 1.1 compliant
Supports RS232 serial interface DB9
Supports over 1Mbps data transfer rate
Supports remote wake-up and power management
Available for USB Port
Supports: Windows 98/ME/2000/XP/Vista

Ash , note ; these adapters do have a chip embedded within them .

- Ie; as you suspected, you can't just whip these up out of spare parts, ( by soldering wire onto the proper ends ) .

<> cheers
Earl
I thought with all pc windows the standards would be universal?

Well I spoke to my mate down town and he suggested that I bring the DCX2496 down to the school and test it on one of the pc. I explained that a program needs to be loaded up and its fairly easy to delete the program, so its not an issue.

I’ll take along the same lead I made up for it and if it doesn’t work it ether the wiring but I followed the instructions as told to me by the other chap.

If it works then it’s my pc.

I’ll take it down tomorrow and see how it goes. I was going to push myself to the limit and do it today but with the heat no point rushing around, I’ll just be cool.

So all I have to do is undone the XLR leads take spare three pin power lead down with me thou there are plenty of those leads at the school.

The units’ battery back-up for the memory I think lasts for a week so unplugging it for the 30 min trip will cause no issues.

You know I think I’ll try both USB and RS-233 but the USB depends if the guy at the school as one of those adaptors.

I have spare USB lead that I’d be glad to cut in half and try and unravel what wire goes where LOL with the RS-232 and if it needs to be crossed over.

Why did I even bother this has been the worst product to speak hand-shake with the..sigh

This whole thing reminds me of the Space Shuttle Colombia on, her maiden voyage where the computers wasn’t talking and then to matters worse the back-up computers failed.:o:

I think its down to 1 out of 3 possible mistakes (that I have made) I dislike computers.:D

So this USB/RS-232 connector does it have a small resistor in-between it? Or is just simply connected together and sealed in plastic to prevent opening it.

Nice weather today by the way guys.:)

grumpy

05-26-2010, 07:26 AM

JBL 4645

05-26-2010, 09:17 AM

Do not cut up USB cables. There is no point.

As Earl already mentioned, the USB<->RS-232 adapter
is not just a wiring, pin-out, connector thing... it translates
levels and protocols with internal circuitry.

Hoping your local friends can help.

Okay no cutting up leads then.

I just want fitting positive outcome from all this madness. How many weeks now? Even I lost count?

If this doesn't work I'm going to be grumpy2.:D

JBL 4645

05-27-2010, 04:46 AM

Well talking from the school at the moment and the pc works with the DCX2496 susessufully. My mate has given me an USB to RS-232 lead with CD-ROM to load up all I need is new RS-232 sirreis lead to get this hopfully networking at home.

grumpy

05-27-2010, 07:24 AM

the pc works with the DCX2496 susessufully.

Huzzah. Glad you've sussed this out.

JBL 4645

05-27-2010, 08:46 AM

Huzzah. Glad you've sussed this out.

Cheers grumpy

I'm now back at home...and I have established a 100% connection finally! :bouncy:

Using the (Sweex CD005) convert to (USB Serial)

A small CD-ROM to load the drive program up and wow I’m chuffed now.:)

I’ll visit Behringer later and see if I can’t upload new (firmware) to extend the units ability.

Cheers all for the forum support. :cheers:

JBL 4645

05-27-2010, 08:50 AM

WTF!

Its not only connected but its blacked all my PEQ pre-settings :banghead: so guys I have to re-EQ the LCR LF/HF all over again. Why didn’t someone warn me. :D

Earl K

05-27-2010, 09:21 AM

WTF!

Its not only connected but its blacked all my PEQ pre-settings :banghead: so guys I have to re-EQ the LCR LF/HF all over again. Why didn’t someone warn me. :D

PS : the DCX software works as it should / and offers a few good ways ( for the inexperienced user ) to damage their speakers :eek: .

Maybe another warning is in order :

WARNING KIDS : TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN PERIL !!!!

You were warned by me a few posts back / you appear to have comprehension issues about what the words "inexperienced", "warning" & "peril", actually mean .

<> cheers :)

JBL 4645

05-27-2010, 09:55 AM

You were warned by me a few posts back / you appear to have comprehension issues about what the words "inexperienced", "warning" & "peril", actually mean .

<> cheers :)

Peril no, that’s too nice a word. It would have been one and all, just plan curtains!

Smoky Robinson and Frizzle Tweeters! :D

Well lucky I had the amps turned down! whew! Otherwise if I had played any music or other I would have assumed the settings where unchanged, it would have bugged up my HF tweeters.

I have the limiters turned (ON) on all channels LF/HF.

Well I’ve partly fished the EQ and set the crossover slopes back up Bessel -24db LF/HF

I’ve set in some PEQ on the DCX2496 accordantly to the ½ octave Technics SH-8055 RTA range.

Adjusted the peaks I still have tiny bit of refining to do.

I also upload a firmware but see no change (in gaining extra CPU percentage %).

I have no room spare for any dynamic EQ not one! There is only (5%) left over!

I thought it was suppose to give an extra (15%) so what have I overlooked? I doubt 15% would be enough for independent dynamic EQ over LF/HF channels 1 2 3 4 5 and 6.

JBL 4645

06-08-2010, 12:36 PM

If you’re down at 2% you need to add in an extra two PEQ filters you can trick the DCX into adding these filters. You need add them in (within less than 1 second) on one of the LF/HF channels. Once you’re at 0% that’s it.

You first need to turn OFF one of the other filters on another channels to get the percentage % to go up few (%) then (get those fingers warmed up because you’ll only have 1 second).

Set one filter in then quickly move to the next channel and add in the other filter by turning the (rotary dial on the DCX).

Joe Alesi

11-03-2010, 04:05 AM

Hello DCX2496ers,

I've checked the DCX2496 manual, but it is not clear how one feeds digital-IN to a pair of DCX2496 crossovers from one AES/EBU CD Transport digital-OUT? I'm not sure if it is as simple as a Y splitter cable as this may mess with the 110 Ohms these devices like to see. And if so the x-over would need to be told it is Left or Right... Yes? Perhaps miracles are accomplished by the RS-485 LINK cable mentioned in the manual. I'm not sure so would love to share your experience on this issue.

Thanks in advance

Best
JA

Flodstroem

11-03-2010, 05:47 AM

Flodstroem

11-03-2010, 06:14 AM

BTW Joe, have you thought anything about the level control for the 12 ch. X-over outputs?

I know that Jack Bouska (member) has built a level control for these outputs for to get the lowest distortion possible to the power amps. Hes level control was built with stacked potentiometers (I think it was 5 pots for each Behringer).

I have decided another approach for the level kontrol, and thats the use of LDR´s (light dependent resistors). The project includes a linear regulated current source for the LED´s (inside the LDR´s) together with an IR-controlled motorized potentiometer (2 x 10k).

I can post more info later when the project has been tested (just now Im waiting for parts/components). ;)

Joe Alesi

11-08-2010, 07:31 PM

Hello Joe!
I have done it this way:
an Y-splitter (RCA to two XLR male, pin 2 hot, pin 3 cold/shield. I have used an RG-("58") cable for the splitter.
Connect the two XLR to the XLR input connector "A" for each Behringers.
Then switch the inputs from analog to AES/EBU both behringers.

For the Behringer # 1: choose input "A" for all the outputs
For the Behringer # 2: choose input "B" for all the outputs

Hope this helps :)

Thankyou Flodtroem,

That gives me some hope when I finally get around to this project.

For the level control I was also thinking of using stacked potentiometers/swtiches. Something like a 23 position rotary switch with multiple wafers. It is hard to get 12 wafers though. I had an idea of using three separate 4 wafer 23 postion rotary switches , which can be had cheaply on eBay and making them act together via gears or other linkages.

Another thought is to use the 6 channel volume control available in most receivers. Of course these need to be "extracted" from the receiver and ganged together.

Best
JA

Flodstroem

11-09-2010, 05:27 AM

Thankyou Flodtroem, That gives me some hope when I finally get around to this project.
For the level control I was also thinking of using stacked potentiometers/swtiches. Something like a 23 position rotary switch with multiple wafers.
Best
JA

Hi Joe
Your suggestion would be an excellent choice, (with the 23 position switches), and your suggested solution will be my second project if LDR´s doesnt work good enough. But we will see what solution works best. :rolleyes:
You can find some more information concerning the LDR level control in here:
http://i.diyaudio.com/display.php?M=16725&C=903ac5a9f09dea2a2bed36396787bddd&S=65&L=8&N=47
Also I would love to have a peek at your level control when finished and tested, no matter what solution you finally choose :p

JBL 4645

11-11-2010, 08:30 AM

One thing I noticed and I thought this was down to the fault of the DCX2496 hissing issue. My Marantz 1050 that are powering the HF LCR is a bit on the hissing or lousy s/n signal to noise ratio. I set the amp level right, down while placing my ear next to the tweeter horn, I can hear hiss or noise, so next step is to get in new Behringer A500 amps soon.

If I switch the speaker setting to off the noise goes away because it’s not sending out a signal.

Alesis RA300 are bit hard to find now on most pa store internet sites, not sure why they discontinued in selling it?

So I’d have to revamp the amps to all new Behringer A500 sometime around next year. I’ll hold on to Alesis RA300, not selling them.

Anyhow if I do increase the level on the DCX2496 the hissing does become noticeable but not sure if 1050 is adding some hiss due to its lousy s/n ratio as long as o keep the level at low level its near impossible to hear the hiss like noise in silence, unless standing right next to loudspeaker, but I don’t want that noise I want it almost (almost silent).

Flodstroem

11-11-2010, 10:33 AM

Anyhow if I do increase the level on the DCX2496 the hissing does become noticeable but not sure if 1050 is adding some hiss due to its lousy s/n ratio as long as o keep the level at low level its near impossible to hear the hiss like noise in silence, unless standing right next to loudspeaker, but I don’t want that noise I want it almost (almost silent).

:D Thats one of my reason for to add a level control to the DCX2496´s outputs.
And then you could let the DCX2496 work on the full power output for to reach the best available s/n ratio ;)
Also, distortion due to the digital sampling errors/at small signal levels will be improved significantly and thats my main reason for to add a level control ;) :p

JBL 4645

11-11-2010, 10:37 AM

:D Thats one of my reason for to add a level control to the DCX2496´s outputs.
And then you could let the DCX2496 work on the full power output for to reach the best available s/n ratio ;)
Also, distortion due to the digital sampling errors/at small signal levels will be improved significantly and thats my main reason for to add a level control ;) :p

What like additional preamps attached to each of the 6 outputs, could be a bit expensive.

Most preamps don’t come fitted with XLR inputs to outputs (that are affordable). So it would have to be XLR from the DCX2496 with RCA phone plug then RCA from preamp to XLR seems like a right dog’s dinner.

But I know where you’re coming from, I don’t disagree with the idea it just needs to be affordable that’s all.

What are the top ten best preamps that are under £200 UK or $200 US or that would be £100 over here :p I’m a cheap bastard.:p

Behringer, make preamps thou I think there single mono only, that’s okay I think each one is under £50.00. :D

My Yamaha DSR-70Pro has 5 inputs and if set in bypass mode it would output a basic 4 forget about the 5th channel, I’d have to use a second DSR-70Pro for the remain few channels and then set the preamp volume level down a bit, and pump up the DCX2496 outputs. Yeah that would work. I'm really pissed I didn't have enough to buy that DSR-70Pro off fleabay listed at cheap (buy now) price over a month ago, I could do with second one.

Edit: Unbelievable, sigh, I can’t find any preamps on Richer Sounds.
http://www.richersounds.com/hifi

A cheap stereo amp CAMBRIDGE AUDIO TOPAZ AM1 £69.95 might work doesn’t mean you have to use its amplifier, thou, just use it as preamp and send the outputs to the amps of your choice.
http://www.richersounds.com/product/amplifiers-receivers/cambridge-audio/topaz-am1/camb-topaz-am1-blk

Flodstroem

11-11-2010, 10:57 AM

JBL 4645

11-11-2010, 11:04 AM

Well, you just have the 160 ohms, +22dBu balanced outputs ( x 6 each) so why do you need a preamp?

Im going to use a XLR patch panel (12 in, 12 out) including an LDR level control.
Sure, It also works with a stacked rotary switch type 20-23 positions-6 wafers (one wafer for each output).

If using LDR´s I need a power supply but if using a stacked switch I dont even need a power supply.

Im going to try the LDR-approach because then I could easily add an IR-remote level control ;)

Well I was guessing in lowering the output levels to amps as I might want the amps set accordantly to the type of loudspeakers and by lowering the level sent from the DCX2496 to prevent any overload distortion issues, with the amps, I can place a preamp in-between the DCX2496 and the amps and lower the level and then place custom made plate over the front of the preamp to prevent the dial getting knocked.

Also some come with IR remote, (some) then point the remote at all preamps and rise and lower the volume level at the same time, or, or! Take the IR from one preamp and wire it into the rest of the preamps to make sure the remote controls all preamps simultaneously.;)

One remote might miss one or two of the same preamps so it’s better to find the IR inside the preamp and disconnect it from the PCB and wire solder up a single IR to control all preamps at the same time.

No! I think some devices come with phone like jack, that’s fitted to the back of the device that can be mated to another device of the same type, so no need to solder up a single IR, unless the device doesn’t support a remote jack on the back.

Yeah that’s not a bad idea! Why didn’t I think of this last year. :p
Mind you, does take up extra rack space.

Someone comes around you’re home and asks you. You need all this, gear just to listen to simple stereo.:D

Flodstroem

11-11-2010, 11:19 AM

JBL 4645, scroll down to picture #7 there you will find one example of level control using a switch (by member Jack Bouska) :)
http://jgbouska.tripod.com/audio/sub_index_graphs.htm

Flodstroem

11-11-2010, 11:25 AM

someone comes around you’re home and asks you. you need all this, gear just to listen to simple stereo.:d

absolutely :D :D

JBL 4645

11-11-2010, 12:17 PM

absolutely :D :D

Well it’s true. A friend said this, to me some 20 years ago and I wasn’t even running half to what I’m running now. See in cinema you don’t expect a rack on the booth fitted with decoding processors and another rack fitted with amps.

Thou I do agree with a simple AVR but not one, simple just AVR not even overpriced ones satisfy me. I prefer the option of adding on as it offers interesting results, thou sometimes it may not, it depends on the idea and whether or not that idea will work? So far I’ve managed to add on a bit more than want my simple AVR can do, its merely being used as decoder, while extra add-ons do a bit more.

JBL 4645

11-11-2010, 12:25 PM

JBL 4645, scroll down to picture #7 there you will find one example of level control using a switch (by member Jack Bouska) :)
http://jgbouska.tripod.com/audio/sub_index_graphs.htm

That a long volume pot! :eek: Its longer than, the Merseyside tunnel.:D

My cat keeps standing up in front of the screen and I can’t see what, I’m typing. They are fidgety creatures.:D

Yeah I see what you mean now. So is that single volume pots bolted together to make up one long multi-channel volume pot?

How’s it he has managed to get the input at -10db? At best I see the main three inputs at -20db I rarely see it at -10db or even 0db with most film laserdisc/DVD/ bluray/ as well as CD, (well I might see -10db on some CD).

Oh, he's only using it for stereo only inputs from the looks of the main inputs A and B. No that looks like its near clipping amber light is lighting up, no I rarely see mine that close.

Is there an input level cut and boast that I overlooked in the users manual? :D

That also looks like a ripping circuit track inside the device.

I guess the case was the only one he had available, otherwise he could be bit slimmer in height, seeing there’s not much inside the box. Yeah I like it.:)

Oh, by the way neat cool link. Subs down to 2Hz :eek: that’s plenty low enough a bit extreme but rarely does most music or film soundtrack content extend that far down, only a few, or is it more, like 100 titles now? I’d say that’s still few considering the some odd 9 or so millions of films made since the dawn of film on worldwide scale. (I mean late 1900's 1927).

I rarely see any of my CD collection going anywhere near 10Hz much less 2Hz.

Flodstroem

11-11-2010, 02:27 PM

Yeah I see what you mean now. So is that single volume pots bolted together to make up one long multi-channel volume pot?
Yes thats correct

How’s it he has managed to get the input at -10db? At best I see the main three inputs at -20db I rarely see it at -10db or even 0db with most film laserdisc/DVD/ bluray/ as well as CD, (well I might see -10db on some CD).
Oh, he's only using it for stereo only inputs from the looks of the main inputs A and B. No that looks like its near clipping amber light is lighting up, no I rarely see mine that close.

He(like me) uses the digital AES/EBU input selection. Then those LED´s dont have any function (I think) due to the inputs only feeds with a digital stream, not with a dynamic analog clipping signal :crying:
But Im not sure about that because I have only used my filters for a very short period for the digital stereo so Im not used to it....yet :blink:

Is there an input level cut and boast that I overlooked in the users manual? :D
No I dont think you have overlooked anything. There is only a marginal information concerning the digital usage of the filter, sadly to say. I wanted moooooore............

Oh, by the way neat cool link. Subs down to 2Hz :eek: that’s plenty low enough a bit extreme but rarely does most music or film soundtrack content extend that far down, only a few, or is it more, like 100 titles now? I’d say that’s still few considering the some odd 9 or so millions of films made since the dawn of film on worldwide scale. (I mean late 1900's 1927).

I rarely see any of my CD collection going anywhere near 10Hz much less 2Hz.
And think of this: those "10 Hz sub"s are TL (Transmission Line) -speakers!!?? Not a small bazooka-sub :p

JBL 4645

11-11-2010, 10:48 PM

Yes thats correct

He(like me) uses the digital AES/EBU input selection. Then those LED´s dont have any function (I think) due to the inputs only feeds with a digital stream, not with a dynamic analog clipping signal :crying:
But Im not sure about that because I have only used my filters for a very short period for the digital stereo so Im not used to it....yet :blink:

(No I dont think you have overlooked anything. There is only a marginal information concerning the digital usage of the filter, sadly to say. I wanted moooooore............)

And think of this: those "10 Hz sub"s are TL (Transmission Line) -speakers!!?? Not a small bazooka-sub :p

I for one agree! More! I want more of its full use to use all the PEQ filers on ABC inputs and each of the 6 outputs along with dynamicEQ ABC input and each of the 6 outputs as well as using the steepest 48db Linkwitz-Riley or Butterworth filter without the DCX2496 telling me, I’ve got no CPU left on it reduce filters etc, etc…sigh!

I have found a way to trick the DCX2469 into getting more filters its not easy and you have to be FAST at doing it!

You start adding the filters like dynamicEQ from left to right but you have to really FAST otherwise the DCX2496 will prevent you from adding anymore filters on by the time, you reached channels 4 and 5.

You still need at least some 12% if you wanted to use PEQ filters while having 24db L-R filters on channels 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 for basic two-way LF HF use. You can get away with 9 PEQ bands on LF and around x4 for HF on each of its outputs.

If you really, really push it, to 42 PEQ filters the menu screen on the DCX2496 starts to go wonky, what I mean is the display becomes jittery and goes all fuzzy like, so don’t push too hard.

You have to add the filters in within at least 1 to 2 seconds. Its like press enter the filter then move to next channel and the next channel before the DCX2496 susses out what you’re up to.

When I get the time, I’ll make a youtube video that shows how fast it’s done.

I’d be surprised if the dbx4800 had the same issues for £1.5grand DSP crossover.

Flodstroem

11-12-2010, 10:55 AM

I only use the filters for my "stereo": 6 dB on sub (< 60 Hz) + bass (60-250), and 6 dB on lower mid + 24 dB-L.R. (250-1 kHz and upwards) on mid (1 kHz-4kHz) and heights 4-20 kHz)).

I have two DCX2496 making no problem with filter arrangements. But I should remember your tips given here JBL 4645. if need be, Thanks :)

JBL 4645

11-12-2010, 06:40 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=roXKov-bet8

The other video hasn’t finished processing LousyTube!

JBL 4645

11-12-2010, 08:25 PM

The other video has finished its processing the site is running like snail a tonight.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lyEE_FRBHA

I'm into HEAT with DCX this early morning I can watch this, flick all day long without getting bored with it, it rocks on the DCX.:D

jack_bouska

11-14-2010, 06:35 AM

That a long volume pot! :eek: Its longer than, the Merseyside tunnel.:D
Oh, by the way neat cool link. Subs down to 2Hz :eek: that’s plenty low enough a bit extreme
I rarely see any of my CD collection going anywhere near 10Hz much less 2Hz.

To see the latest version of my six way volume control, go to post numbers #31 and #34 of the "big blue" thread (link below):

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?12671-Big-Blue&p=132788&highlight=behringer#post132788

I give a short description of how to build the mult-gang pot
I am currently using a pair of DCX2496's in a six way configuration, with a recently acquired pair of JBL 2269H 18" in the transmission line cabinets. (very low, very loud)

Jack bouska

JBL 4645

11-14-2010, 07:16 AM

jack_bouska :applaud:

Shot never the less. The volume pot on the Maplin version you listed. Can that plastic be melted at the back with soldering iron to shape it for the next volume pot to be mated together? Would you recommend superglue to bond the parts together?

Wow the item is still listed!
Standard Dual-Gang Potentiometers £2.52
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2207

Okay I’m, going to buy some parts week after next week.

What about the PCB did you get that from Maplin or elsewhere? PCB, board won’t cost much.

XLR inputs and outputs that’s not big deal ether they don’t cost too much.

What about the chassis box where did you get the parts for that? Or was it some item that didn’t work and you gutted it made some metal plates and cut the holes in the metal for the XLR plugs?

Still even a plastic box sold at Maplin even if its square would still work just as long as all, the parts are assembled inside.

What did you use to shield the connections as XLR have three pins and I see you only used two wires connected to the XLR?

Thou I like what you’ve done, really smart looking.

I see I already posted a comment on that thread 3 years ago, wow doesn’t time, fly!:D

What was the final cost of you’re project?

Cheers:)

Flodstroem

11-14-2010, 12:54 PM

Flodstroem

11-14-2010, 12:59 PM

I see I already posted a comment on that thread 3 years ago, wow doesn’t time, fly!:D Cheers:)

Yea! and when getting older a year goes twice as fast :crying:

JBL 4645

11-14-2010, 01:31 PM

JBL 4645, you could have a look at this page. I purchased a panel like this for my level control box. Maybe you also could find some useful parts in there?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190462691904&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

That would work! Nice find, I’ll consider it. Not now as my next priority is to start building the floor in my living room. So this would have to wait at the bottom of the heap for several months. Some parts are cheap as chips but I don’t want to get sidetracked until I finished my floor.

JBL 4645

11-14-2010, 01:33 PM

Yea! and when getting older a year goes twice as fast :crying:

LOL please don't remind me. :D Keep a fresh healthy young mind. :)

Got get some kip now I need to recharge the body with 1000 catnaps. Later.;)

JBL 4645

04-12-2011, 03:22 PM

If the CUP percentage is pushed to 0 chances are audio distortion will be heard. This is something I discovered a few nights ago.

I added in some HP to the ABC input and tricked the unit to allow me to add in as many possible BP filters on the 6 outputs this of course crated some high frequency distortion a kind of crackling sound that had me worried at first before I sussed it out. It was running way past 0% more like -5%

You have to input the filters very fast otherwise the unit will tell you to (reduce some filters or crossover slopes).

JBL 4645

04-14-2011, 07:41 AM

Another thing I forget to mention is the odd bass distortion on channel 1 starting at around -10db a kinder of crackle pop. I’m not sure if its down to using too many BP filters or other. No I haven’t damaged the DCX2496 it will play beyond -10db on channel 1 LF only it will have some crackle pop on cretin frequencies peaking above -10db.

I’ll run a few tests to see if I can’t suss it out later on.

Lee in Montreal

04-14-2011, 07:54 AM

Some people have had complaints about the bass loosing its tightness with the DCX. Could that be related to the default settings in the dynamic eq? 100ms attack - 500ms release.

JBL 4645

04-14-2011, 08:03 AM

Some people have had complaints about the bass loosing its tightness with the DCX. Could that be related to the default settings in the dynamic eq? 100ms attack - 500ms release.

I don’t know I’ll run some tests with simple pink noise or sine wave or maybe some, The Empire Strikes Back (1980)! To see if it triggers any form of crackle. I know now not to place too many filters on the DCX2496 otherwise I get a crackle distortion on the HF that I noticed with STAR TREK the motion picture (1979) “the wormhole” which as some ear bending highs mostly peaking in the 8 KHz range. I first thought oh, no I’ve blown the HF drivers LOL! That can’t happen I have the audio limiters set to ON!

And no it wasn’t the distortion into the audio limiter I tuned it OFF then set the level down lower on the master volume and it still crackled with a distortion sound. It took me several minutes to suss it out.

The bass distortion crackle doesn’t happen on ant other channel other than channel 1 output. I even ran other channels into left LF by swapping the leads around to see if it was something to with left input channel. No it happened when I used centre and right.

I also swapped the left channel input over to centre and right. It played fine well past -10db without any crackle issues. It could be down to the CPU on the DCX2496 that has a few week spots. We have we weak spots we’re not perfect, the DCX2496 is still a dogs, umm, I mean, (the cats bollocks) :p crossover for the price! I wouldn’t duff the DCX2496.

JBL 4645

04-15-2011, 09:03 AM

Same snug I tested it with THE EMPIRE STRIKES BACK THX CAV laserdisc side2 the AT-AT attack! I set all the other BP filters to off muted all the remaining channels from 2 3 4 5 and 6.

I turned down the amp level and turned up the master volume level until it reached around -10db on channel 1 and same issue a crackle distortion. If the unit was indeed faulty it would only be minor something incredibly easy to replace a simple component on that side of the audio chin.

Anyway I might have a simple answer to get around this and that’s to use channel 2 as left LF and channel 1 as left HF since that channel (and I never allowed the HF to play loud) I’m not hard of hearing high frequencies, yet!

I’ll pop back in jiffy.

Edt: Oh, I almost forget! I’d might as re-order all the outputs rather than

Ch1) left LF
Ch2) left HF
Ch3) centre LF
Ch4) centre HF
Ch5) right LF
Ch6) right HF

It would now be

Ch1) left HF
Ch2) left LF
Ch3) centre HF
Ch4) centre LF
Ch5) right HF
Ch6) right LF

That is what I like about the DCX2496 it’s flexible! :D you can tailor it to any output fashion.

JBL 4645

04-15-2011, 09:37 AM

Sigh, its only reduced it to around -8db now not much of big difference its elusive? I don’t often run the outputs to -10db not for any film or music.

You might as well run a thorough test yourself to confirm. I’m going to run a battery of tests to see if its something that I overlooked some time back.

Also re-ordering the channels was almost the best mind f$*k yet because I’ve been so used to the original order for 5 yeas now, and it was doing my head in, I would have had to manually sent over all the EQ filters to the other channels swapping them around and re-testing with wideband pink this, would have taken hours.

This doesn’t happen on channel 2B 3B 4C and 6C? Why channel A, 1A 2A? It doesn’t distort on the main ABC inputs? Only when the level is sent over -10db on the 1A and 2A outputs?

It could be fault that came off the production line at Behringer with hundreds of the same model that no ones cared to notice because there are only so few true listeners that would spot something not right!?

I know buy another DCX2496 and yes I do need another one in fact x3 more well the very least x4 then.

Edit:Okay sigh! I ran the frequency crossover over set to 20Hz and moved the scale of the upper end of the crossover up higher past 1 KHz and it’s a bit hard to tell because of the sound coming off the film the mid and higher sounds could be masking it! Or I can’t hear it because the middle and higher sounds are more sensitive on my listening ear!

I’m sure this only happens within a narrow range of the lows at a cretin level range why? I don’t know why? I don’t have the secrets to the universe I can’t help the rainforest so, my next best guess is trail and error to figure this, thing out?

Edit:Okay, Lee if you think you can suss this, out I’d like to read it!

I set the crossover to 410Hz 2.30 KHz with Falcon fly by left channel as the Ti-fighters chase after it after the hyper-drive as failed, no issue the level reaches up -2db no crackle I going to run some individual sine wave tones see what that sounds like!

fpitas

01-30-2013, 12:31 PM

This thread seems to have moved away from DCX2496 related matters, but I'll post here anyway in case somebody wants to fool with their DCX. I made a noticeable improvement simply by eliminating the input coupling capacitors, and replacing the remaining, necessary coupling capacitors with Nichicons. My DCX didn't sound bad from the factory, but I heard some "lack of refinement". The eventual goal is to replace the capacitors and the op-amps, but I decided to experiment and just replace the caps first. I decided the input caps were unneccessary for home use, as the preceding unit in my system has more or less no DC at its output (Oppo BDP-95 XLR balanced output). So I shorted C8, C9, C26, C27, C41 and C42 with wire. I removed the caps first, but that's not really necessary. I left C10 and C11 since these block the phantom power to the microphone. For the coupling caps remaining in the input circuits, C6, C13 and C28, I substituted Nichicon KA caps from Mouser, 100uF @ 35V: http://www.mouser.com/new/nichicon/nichiconKAcaps/. These are a new series from Nichicon good for 105C. I doubt they'll ever get nearly that hot in my DCX, but 105C caps are generally better quality than 85C caps. Nichicon claims they're good for audio, so I gave them a try. On the output side (C43 through C48), the selection of caps was a bit different. The outputs of the difference amps from the DACs (for example, IC1A) run near 0 VDC, depending on the DC offset between the DAC outputs, the op-amp input offsets, etc. The caps couple to an op-amp input that is once again near 0 VDC, so the DC across the caps can be a little positive or negative. Behringer used another polar cap here, probably for BOM consolidation, rather than technical reasons. I decided to try Nichicon ES bipolars, 100uF @ 35V. I've used them before and they worked quite well. Like the other times I've used Nichicon caps, it took a few hours of operation before they sounded good. I can only imagine the caps continue forming from the leakage current, but who knows. In any event, they smoothed out after about 10 hours of use, and the result is pretty gratifying. The "lack of refinement" is gone. Details of the music come through better, and the slight roughness on vocals is gone. I still intend to replace the op-amps, but if you're on a super-budget, this is a very inexpensive upgrade that's doable at your kitchen table (or wherever). Obviously, before you eliminate the input caps, you should make sure the DC from the previous unit is under control. Now, after listening a while, I've decided the best way to describe the difference is "more open".