Dome
Doesn’t the US have Earth leads? I only see two pins on the mains sockets
Not sure if your glasses are dirty, but those outlets have 3 holes.
The largest hole, at the bottom, is the ground/earth connection.
As one of the forrunners in electricity reticulation I thought the US would have made a half decent power socket. Mind you, they are slightly better than the European standard. Point contact on a round pin is quite average. I dont know why they didn't go for a flat pin; i.e. BS with a square pin or NZ/AUS with a flat pin. The connecting hardware is nicer looking as well.
Allan.
p.s. 110V: what is with that?
Well there is way around that its called import!
Buy some sockets and plugs from the UK and install them into the average US home I take it they use three wires live neutral and Earth of course, thou I’ve just discovered that.
The UK used to be on 240v then I found out a few years ago that it was lowered to 220v no wonder my sound system was lacking a bit.
No its fine just kidding I was told it was something to do with Europe which is why the UK changed? Does it have something to do with the Euro as well?
The mains plug as your looking at. On the left lower pin is the Live!
One the right side lower pin is the Neutral!
The top pin is the Earth thou it does bugger all when I get ground humming.
Oh, I wonder if Dome, is checking the mains out to see if its going to have issues with ground humming? Some rooms or where you tap onto the mains supply often as its own Electronic Gremlin?
Dome, are you checking the mains supply out mate, it’s the last thing you want is banging your head on the wall for hours on end trying to locate the fault!?
Or is your mains sound!
Its called doing things half assed, as far as I know only the USA, Canada use 110V for most things.
But its well known that using 220V is much more effiecent. I've got a Unisaw table saw that can be set up for either. I bought it from a door shop that went out of business 25 years ago. They had it setup for 110v, I changed it to 220V right off.
Same with my well. It had a 110V jet pump, changed it to 220V pump, that dropped my electric bill.
Living in the Land of the Sun
This is the NZ/AUS standard. These are more top of the line fittings that only protrude from the wall about 4mm! And 240V of course. I think the UK dropped to 220V to come into line with europe. Of course with the drop in voltage you get a corresponding increase in current, more cable losses. We can pull nearly 5Kw from a twenty amp circuit. With four double sockets on one standard power circuit we can have a useful current draw of 27A, although the individual sockets are rated at 10A a peice.
http://www.archiexpo.com/prod/clipsa...89-124394.html
Allan.
P.S. We dont use conduit either, well at least not in houses. That went out at the same time they stopped using VIR type cables. Somewhere in the late '40's I think.
Well here’s a strange one maybe you can clarify if there’s any truth or fact behind it.
I was talking to this chap on the phone a few months back and he mentioned about changing the average common fuse for a different type of grade that offers superior power flow to allow the HI-Fi sound system to sound better.
I was a bit sceptic about it, whether I should belive him or not because I smelled (TBS) Total Bull Sh!t! I’ve changed my number because the guy was doing my head in. LOL
I have friend that could do a total re-rewire of house and I’ve seen his work on clients home many years, ago and I was very impressed. He’s a teacher of electronics by profession and can design most if not, many.
I don’t seem to recall him ever mentioning or have even seen him, replacing fuses that will allow a magical flow of current to give an almost perfect sound to Hi-Fi.
I wonder what the Dome, will be pulling in regards to his soon to be up and running JBL home cinema. He’s got a few more amps than I. Well I’m running 8 plus the rest! I’m surprised the trip circuit hasn’t blown yet! LOL
As for the amps that I’m pulling I haven’t single clue, I’m not good with mathematics I’m sure its well over the limit or close too it!
Here’s a view of what the mains and circuit breakers looks like inside my cupboard.
Here’s a view of what the mains and circuit breakers looks like inside my cupboard.
On the left the red box is the supply IN, I think it is?
This is tapped into the pay as you use elasticity.
The main lager board is for 24 hour supply night storage heaters, kitchen a few mains plugs.
The reaming two boards on the left are bathroom bedroom living room etc.
Odd, hmm, I just noticed on the boards! It says 230v!? Now I’m confused?
There are random switches for 32A 16A 10A and 6A amperes.
Geez - the US had the early standard and others that came later improved on what we pioneered. They didn't have a huge number of pre-existing systems to support, they could start at a more advanced place.
A lot of older US homes may not be able to handle 240v on the main house wiring within the walls - cloth and older plastic type insulation.
Most current US residential code does not require conduit - but Tidome may be using it for the shielding it offers.
Can't speak from a point of history, but here's a chart of us power transmission scheme
And about that 110 volt thing ... here's what another site said:
In the US and Canada, 220 volts, 230 volts, and 240 volts are used interchangeably to describe one voltage range that is used to power larger appliances. Similarly, 110 volts, 115 volts, and 120 volts all refer to the one voltage range that is available through the common electrical outlet. The sources of these seemingly different numbers is as follows:
- The 220 volt and 110 volt designations are older and familiar terminology, but are no longer used in either product design or by electric utilities in the US and Canada.
- The 230 volt and 115 volt terminology comes from equipment design standards. Equipment is commonly designed to operate at 230 or 115 volts plus or minus 10%.
- Electric utilities typically deliver electricity, under standard conditions, at 240 volts and 120 volts plus or minus 5% at the transformer.
When one takes into account that equipment is designed to accept voltage variations of 10% at a minimum and that the electric utility regularly delivers electricity within 5% of their standard, there is a good match between the voltage the electric utility delivers and the voltage equipment was designed to use.
2ch: WiiM Pro; Topping E30 II DAC; Oppo, Acurus RL-11, Acurus A200, JBL Dynamics Project - Offline: L212-TwinStack, VonSchweikert VR-4
7: TIVO, Oppo BDP103D, B&K, 2pr UREI 809A, TF600, JBL B460
So that’s how it works? Interesting to see the power step up/down modules and the various different parts it needs to supply over the average single home.
The shielding now that would be to ether keep it as pure as possible or from noise interference?
Yeah, I’ve seen them in cinema booth racks many years ago. There mostly placed in vertical upright position at the back of the rack.
You could go with the height thou Dolby consumer EX doesn’t support the extra channel unlike its professional Dolby SA-10. You could get away with Dolby surround pro-logic decoder patched onto the surrounds and it works much in the same way as SA-10 which is basically a modified Dolby CP-45 optical analogue Dolby A/SR decoder for small cinemas on cheap budget,
It’s the same as used for We Where Solders. only they matrix an additional like how Dolby stereo 4:2:4 works with the surrounds the extra or height is the surround channel only turned around the centre back is the centre front and sides left and right front only reversed around, now then.
Dolby CP45
Dolby SA10
Only thing is they say the height mix isn’t intact on the DVD and since its matrix on the stereo surrounds just like Dolby stereo 4:2:4 I somehow don’t believe when so and so says the extra ending isn’t supported on the DVD.
That’s like saying the early editions of the first VHS Dolby stereo 4:2:4 mixes didn’t have a surround rear on STAR WARS.
And I have an early PAL Dolby stereo 4:2:4 laserdisc produced around early 1980’s.
I was meaning from an efficiency point of view. Put a 1200 watt load on a 120V source and you will need a cable that can supply it at 10amps. However, at 240V the required current is only 5 amps. This equates to only 25% of the power loss on the cable. Most other countries adopted 220V but we went for 240/415.
Allan.
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