Veneer Help Needed

[loach71]

To the cabinet makers on this site:

I am building two subwoofer cabinets - each holding two JBL 2245H drivers.
I am using double laminated 13 ply baltic birch plywood - making each wall of the plywood 1.5" thick. The aircraft grade baltic birch plywood does not have a really nice finish surface, so I am applying teak veneer. I am using the paper back self adhesive veneer.

The $64 K question is about cutting the speaker holes. I'm using a MicroFence equipped Porter Cable router and a 3/4" diameter flat bottom, carbide tipped bit. Do you cut the speaker holes before you apply the veneer or after?

This jig (Microfence) lets me do holes to .001" - but I am worried about veneer tear-out during the routing process.
Any mistakes with teak veneer can cost a bundle.

Any hints or tips on this question woud be greatly appreciated.

loach71

[hapy._.face]

I've been in this situation before. I don't know what the "proper" answer is- but I'll tell you what I did: I cut the holes after applying the veneer. I used tape (masking or blue painter's tape) to cover the marks where the cut would be to prevent chipping. This is an old carpenter's trick that works every time. I also made my inital plunge with a Rotozip to "test". My final cut was made with the regular router once I established the hole's perimeter. It turned out perfect. However, I'm sure there's more than one way to skin this cat. In large scale cabinet building- veneer goes on before most cuts because it saves a lot of time.

I think most people would opt to veneer not only after the all other cuts were made, but even after the cabinet was tested. It could save you money if you find out your design needs re-worked. "play it- then spray it". "Hear it- then veneer it", etc.

In closing- I say that if your design has merit- and you are confident of it's ability to work properly- put the veneer on first- use lots of tape- and make the cut once. My 2 cents. Good luck!

[loach71]

Thanks a bunch.
I am buying a NEW carbide router bit just to be sure

[John]

If these 2245's will be front mounted as they should be,if there is some slight fraying of the veneer at the edge of the mounting hole it will be hidden by the mounting flange of the 2245 basket. I also recomend the use of the painters tape.

[hapy._.face]

Thanks a bunch.
I am buying a NEW carbide router bit just to be sure

Oh, yeah- that's another good point! The sharper the better. Try a test piece with scraps first, and start by varying the depth of plunge. It (the total cut) may have to be done in two stages. Start shallow (just enough the cut through the veneer + 1/8" or so) as this will also help prevent any fraying. [When you cut lumber- you never use a saw that cuts way beyond the depth of the material (unless you want to shred it!).] The blade (in this case bit) should be just barely deeper than the finish material (veneer). Then cut the entire depth as you normally would.

[loach71]

Oh, yeah- that's another good point! The sharper the better. Try a test piece with scraps first, and start by varying the depth of plunge. It (the total cut) may have to be done in two stages. Start shallow (just enough the cut through the veneer + 1/8" or so) as this will also help prevent any fraying. [When you cut lumber- you never use a saw that cuts way beyond the depth of the material (unless you want to shred it!).] The blade (in this case bit) should be just barely deeper than the finish material (veneer). Then cut the entire depth as you normally would.

This is a great TIP!

[Hamilton]

I cut circles with a ¼" bit, they cut faster and don't buck around as much as the larger bits.