The Battery Test-REDUX

[invstbiker]

This is going to be very basic, but I thought I would post this for us visual-only type of guys (and you know who you are) a picture tells the whole story.

1. Start with your basic 1.5 volt battery
2. Connect wires to battery. (I am lacking electrical tape, so I used Scotch brand. I kept the + terminal wire stripped very short so to contact with only the nub on the end of the battery.
3. With the cone of the woofer facing up, so you can see the movement, apply the wires + to + and - to - . If the cone moves outward your transducer is wired correctly, IF not it's back-ass-wards as mine was. I swapped the speakers internal wire to get mine in correct polarity.

[boputnam]

...apply the wires + to + and - to - . If the cone moves outward your transducer is wired correctly

It depends upon the transducer. JBL has a legacy polarity - the predominance of JBL historic drivers are cone IN on positive voltage.

There has been a great deal posted here on this. Here's a few links for you - and you should SEARCH "Polarity" amongst other strings...

JBL Polarity Convention

And, you should read JBL Tech Note No. 12: (Link: http://www.jblpro.com/pub/technote/tn_v1n12b.pdf)

[invstbiker]

Now I'm really in trouble, can't wait for the backlash on this one...
Just trying to be helpful.

[boputnam]

I swapped the speakers internal wire to get mine in correct polarity.

You're not in trouble - yet...

But, your "solution", above, may be confused.

What is the transducer, and what is the application (cabinet, transducer ensemble, etc)?

[invstbiker]

Transducer in question is the 2231A from the 4343 model. After checking polarity with my handheld Phonic audio analyzer. The left channel showed "out of phase" After reversing the woofer wires, the Phonic read "in phase". Also did the battery check and the cone moves out when the battery + is connected to the neg terminal and - is connected to the pos terminal. All I know now is that my bass has improved and imaging is much better. The phonic reads "in phase" for both speakers.

[boputnam]

The 2231A is negative. Let me check the schematic to see how JBL intended it be connected - are you running these in a 4343, or where?

Regardless, it is obvious that in a pair of cabinets, each transducer's connections should match in each cabinet or your will get cancellations.

If you are using the 3143 network, my read of this network is:
LF: Red binding post to GRN lead = negative
MF: Black binding post to WHT lead = positive
HF: Black binding post to WHT lead = positive
UHF: Black binding post to WHT lead = positive

I should remember this stuff, but the LF is out-of-phase with the other three elements in the 4343.

How are you running this woof?

[invstbiker]

Yes 4343's "The Paul B's"

[boputnam]

Then, based upon your first post, you may want to check all the internal connections - someone had something cross-wired.

The LF's should (by design) be opposite the other elements.

As a general rule, SOLID colored (non-BLK) leads connect to the Red speaker terminal. JBL sorts all the rest of this crap out in their network internal wiring.

[invstbiker]

I will check the other componants. I am to assume that all solid color leads go to + terminals. So if another one is reversed on the mid, HF or tweeter, that could screw this all up as well. I'll check it out, I love playing with my crane...

[Mr. Widget]

I told you Bo was phase crazy...

Funny, we were discussing this on that bass thread simultaneously...



Widget

[edgewound]

I will check the other componants. I am to assume that all solid color leads go to + terminals. So if another one is reversed on the mid, HF or tweeter, that could screw this all up as well. I'll check it out, I love playing with my crane...

The positive terminal is black. "Positive voltage applied to the black terminal will cause outward cone/diaphragm movement".

Crossover networks are wired so as to keep the phase correct based on the network topology. Black striped wire from each crossover output goes to black terminal on each driver, solid wire goes to red driver terminal. Yellow pair is HF, white pair is MF, green pair is LF.

Then do the battery check on the system inputs. Black is still positive. If a cone moves in when positive voltage is applied to black speaker system input, something is miswired internally....possibly at the crossover's input from the external terminals. The red and black crossover input wires should match the red and black system input terminals.

[boputnam]

...Yellow pair is HF, white pair is MF, green pair is LF.

Mostly true, certainly the solid vs striped bit.

There are slight color variations (mostly in the 4-ways).

As example the 3143 is:
LF = GRN / BLK
MF = WHT / BLK+WHT
HF = RED / RED+WHT
UHF = RED / RED+GRY

[boputnam]

Then do the battery check on the system inputs. Black is still positive. If a cone moves in when positive voltage is applied to black speaker system input, something is miswired internally....

If I understand this, my grab is "no".

The rear cabinet binding posts ("system inputs") are Red = (+), Black = (-).

If the cabinet internal wiring is done to design, and "system inputs" are connect as here, the LF cone in some designs will move in on positive voltage. It all depends on what the design is.

Unless you're DIY, connect solid colored (non-black) leads to the Red speaker terminals and you are spec with JBL design.

[John]

I just applied +to+ and -to- on a pair of 124H and the cone moves out?

[boputnam]

I just applied +to+ and -to- on a pair of 124H and the cone moves out?

I don't know that particular woof. Is that the true part number...?