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Thread: jbl 2245 H

  1. #46
    Obsolete
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    Yes. They're just like any of the other JBL transducers with the dark foam half roll surround.

  2. #47
    Senior Member edgewound's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnaec
    All the LE14A's I've had, (8-10), have had the white lansaloy surrounds glued to the front - maybe when they switched to black they also changed the mounting method? The white surrounds also have the bulge going in, (concave from the front) - did they also change this with the black surrounds?

    I've attached 2 pics of one I have here, (out of 4). This speaker has never been modified. The first is from the front - the surround is clearly on the outside. And while it may be hard to tell, the second shows the inside edge of the cone going right up to the surround:

    John
    Wow...thanks Johnaec...I'v actually been proved right by photo evidence....Thanks to Zilch and Don C too!
    Edgewound...JBL Pro Authorized...since 1988
    Upland Loudspeaker Service, Upland, CA

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by John View Post
    For what it's worth I have talked to a few guys that have used the after market 2245 kits and they have claimed that they sounded just as good, In fact didn't someone do some testing on a aftermarket recone and state that the specs were correct???

    By the way for a JBL recone kit you are looking at $200 plus
    Hello, did you remember the aftermarket recone kit brand's name?

    Thanks
    Leonardo

  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by slxrti View Post
    I had a pair of 2235 with after market kit's, they sounded better than the original 2235 cones. I tested them in a 8 cubic foot box. There was less boom and were very smooth.

    slxrti
    Hello, did you remember the aftermarket recone kit brand's name?

    Thanks
    Leonardo

  5. #50
    Moderator / Treasurer/Marketplace Czar boputnam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gene View Post
    I try to post a picture of my speakers , but so far no luck any input
    Send them in an email to: LH Treasurer. I'll add them for you.

    FWIW, here is a picture of the two iterations of 2245H I know of:
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  6. #51
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    Hi Bo and crew,

    I have probably had 20) 2245s over the years. It is still my favorite subwoofer, and in my opinion the best ever made. Can't tell from your pic, but there is a third variation. There were two versions of the early one (with the extra rings going close to the dust cap). One had white aquaplas on the back of the cone the later versions must use a mass ring or thicker cone. When I had my original 1985 vintage 2245Hs reconed in the '90s I thought at first they had used the wrong cones because there was no aquaplas.

    Best,

    Kev

  7. #52
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    There was a "bad" vendor in there at one point. The later kits use black aquaplas on the back.

  8. #53
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    I'm picking up a couple of newly re-coned 2245s on Saturday.

    So, the aquaplas should be black and the cones should be grey; what else is relevant for a newly OEM coned 2245?

    Thx...

  9. #54
    JBL 4645
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zilch View Post
    Checked four LE14A's here. Lansaloy surrounds on the front. Resurrounds, too.

    [John's are in better shape, tho.... ]
    It reminds me of Mission Impossible. This cone will self-destruct in 10 seconds.

    This is an interesting thread on the different coloured cones. It would be easy if they had bold coloured lettering pasted onto the pictures saying which ones are good and which ones are bad to avoid.

  10. #55
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    Surround repair

    Just found this site, looks like a ton of technical expertise here.

    I've got a 2245H in a 12 cubic foot enclosure I built about 25 years ago. The surround rotted away several years ago & I just quit using it. Now I'm setting up a home theater and I want to bring it back to life. I bought a Parts Express kit. So far I've just removed the gasket and cleaned all the old foam off the frame & cone. That in itself took quite awhile. I'm at the point where the instructions say to cut off the dust cap and shim the voice coil to center it during the foam gluing. I'm a bit nervous about slicing into it so I thought I'd see if I can get any advice from some one who has been there before.

    I came across the My Audio Addiction kit on ebay that claims you don't have to remove the dust cap and that this is the best way. It does seem to me that the spider on these speakers should keep the voice coil centered. By the way, mine has always been downward firing so I don't think there should be any sag in the spider.

    Any advice much appreciated!

  11. #56
    Senior Member Don Mascali's Avatar
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    This is a very old thread, I would start a new one.

    Read this:
    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...d-Step-by-step


    There are a bunch of step by step instructions.


    And welcome aboard, this is a great Forum and a lot of very knowledgable people.
    4406, 4412A, L100, L100t3 (3 pair), L1, L7, 4645C, 4660A, 4695B, SR4735 and various DIY JBL Pro loaded systems.

  12. #57
    Senior Member pos's Avatar
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    Beside Rick Cobbs' kits, here is an alternative way to do it:
    http://www.geocities.jp/arai401204/E...L2245-Dia.html

  13. #58
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pos View Post
    Beside Rick Cobbs' kits, here is an alternative way to do it:
    I think you forgot your smiley!

    Take your pick:
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

  14. #59
    Senior Member pos's Avatar
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    The result is impressive and the Fs is very close to the original.
    This solution certainly does not work for all drivers, but when there is no "flat" part in the surround (for example between the cone and the half roll) there is absolutely no reason why this should not work exactly as expected, especially with large diameter drivers.
    The author of this page is Yuichi Arai, not exactly a jerk.

  15. #60
    Senior Member Flodstroem's Avatar
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    If you have purchased a new surround for the speaker then you could do it this way:

    Remove all the old surround, both on the cone and the frame. Then clean the frame with some glue-remover.

    Now, glue the new surround on back of the cone. Be very careful to center the surround exactly behind the cone and watch for the whole foam roll should be on the outside of the cone, the more exact the more easily for to do the next step.

    You have to check over the glued foam (on the rear of the cone) for several times before in cures doe to it often would like to come of because the glue is water based and doesnt dries quickly.
    When the foam surround has ben installed on the rear of cone and the glue has dried (normally the day after) then you are ready for the next step: gluing the foam surround to the speaker frame.

    The best way to do it is to put glue on both sides, eg. both on the cone and then on the frame before letting them come together. This ensures that there will not be any places left without any glue.

    When you put the two items together, do it carefully and not with force. Watch out for rubbing in the center of cone. Many people doing this work also uses a low frequency signal (25-35 Hz) connected to the speaker (also I do it) so the cone could freely move back and force (some millimeters). This is for to let the cone to center properly before the glue begins to dry.

    In this stage you could fine-center the cone (eg, the voice coil) by means of some movements of the centering of the foam surround.: If you put your finger (approx in 4-6 places, one after the other), very light to the edge of the foam roll and listen for rubbing in the center of the cone you vill get an idea of if the surround (eg. voice coil) are centered or not. If not, well then the cone will make a rubbing sound more easily on one side than from the opposite side. If this is the case, then you could slide the loose cone carefully to the side where you finger made the rubbing. Then/or, if everything is fine then you could start to press the foam surround down all the way round to the frame and whole time, watch for rubbing.

    The low frequency signal can be "on" in the moments described here and you also need to do several checks for the gluing areas so they dont come apart before the glue has cured/dried. About 2 days after the last gluing, the speaker could be checked mounted in the enclosure.
    You could also take a look in this thred:
    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...rescue-project

    (also take a lock at my avatar )
    Flodstroem

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