Dolly Gets a Face Lift! 4430s

[Mr. Widget]

"We had talked about the dowels but I think a mix of putty after I stain made to match the general color will work better. The holes have allready been filled and are secure. The problem with dowels is that the end grain that is exposed is not very capable of absorbing the stain like the surrounding veneer."

Well when I said dowels I meant using the dowels you get from using a hollow dowel cutter and taking the dowel out of the flat grain. It works really well, especially if the original veneer is thick enough so that you can blend them in without fear or going through.

Just a thought... I am sure based on your previously posted pics they will look great.

[speakerdave]

Mr. Widget: "a hollow dowel cutter and taking the dowel out of the flat grain"

I seem to recollect those are plugs, and that's a plug cutter you've described. It works pretty well. All you need for material is a scrap of the same wood with a similar grain pattern, although matching old finish can still be a bit tricky.

David

[Mr. Widget]

"...although matching old finish can still be a bit tricky."

True, but Audiobeer has already removed the finish. Actually there probably will be some residual finish down in the grain.. I guess it is a judgment call.

"Plug-cutter" huh, that sounds like the ticket!

[Alex Lancaster]

That' some piece of fine work!, the 1st picture looked like something I would put a sledge hammer to, for the fireplace.

Do You mean "oxalic" acid, a powder that is used to polish marble?

That´s a first one for me,

Alex.

[Audiobeer]

Originally posted by Alex Lancaster
That' some piece of fine work!, the 1st picture looked like something I would put a sledge hammer to, for the fireplace.

Do You mean "oxalic" acid, a powder that is used to polish marble?

That´s a first one for me,

Alex.

Yep! Thanks for the spell correction. Finishers have used it for years to remove pigment and dirt from the pores of hardwoods like walnut & oak. It also lightens the wood a bit. Works Great!

[Alex Lancaster]

#$%&! the spelling, full speed ahead!

Alex.

[Audiobeer]

Here's a Pic of the speaker with a scuff sand to get the heavy residue after stripping.

[Audiobeer]

Here's a pic of the speaker after a light coat of stripper was put on just long enough to loosen pigments in the pores. Then I gave it an oxalic acid bath using a scrub brush. You can see a deep gouge in the top left half of the wood grain of the speakerust below the left bottom portion of the masked in area of the badge. Time to get out the steam iron!

[Audiobeer]

This last pic is after the vinegar water bath has dried. I then placed it next to the speaker that is waiting it's turn. As you can see the Oxalic acid has not only lightened the wood of the speaker on the right, but has really cleaned up the grain compared to the speaker next two it. These two speakers required 2 hours for this step with clean up. At this point there is 6- 8 hours in the job. Now we are ready for the next step of the pre stain prep.
1) Rough Sand
2) Steam Iron gouges
3) Fill Imperfections
4) Final Sand

[mikebake]

What is the car? RX7?

[Audiobeer]

Close. it's an MX5. That's my wife's car, She is obsessed with that thing!

[boputnam]

Originally posted by Audiobeer
She is obsessed with that thing!

We all have our obsessions...

[scott fitlin]

Originally posted by boputnam
We all have our obsessions...

You dont say? Im not obsessed with audio, am I?

[Audiobeer]

Just finished the initial sanding, Then steam ironed the gouges. Sanded again with 120, then 160. PS the blue tape on the badge is to keep the dust out of the L-Pads.

[mikebake]

Okay, I was thinking MX5.....makes a nice bargaining chip..."you've got that big metal car, I've just got all these little wood boxes........."