Looks great. Keep us posted. I remember the hard labor that went into stripping my 4333AWX's. They were covered in a aborite and required weeks of finishing to restore them close to original. Worth every second!!!
Looks great. Keep us posted. I remember the hard labor that went into stripping my 4333AWX's. They were covered in a aborite and required weeks of finishing to restore them close to original. Worth every second!!!
In this pic is my secret weapon. It's a paste wood filler which in this case is tinted to match the stain. It's used in any wood that is porous. It fills the pores so the laquer lays nice and lasts a lifetime without the pore having air trapped underneath the laquer and popping later. You just slop it on!
Once you lob it on you go with the grain filling all the pores. Once it dries flat a bit you rub off with cheese cloth making sure not to leave any residue behind!
This is what the surface looks like once it's done. It is a real bitch of a step but in the end it pays off big! It allows the blending of the dry earth tone powders to simulate the knots in the wood that need to make in order to hide the lag bolt holes. In this pic the side has the excess filler wipe of. The top has some that remains to be wiped. This step takes 1 - 2 hours.
Last edited by Audiobeer; 10-07-2003 at 06:10 PM.
This first is after applying 3 light coats of cellulose laquer sanding sealer. Then scuff sanding with 360 garnet paper.
The second pic is after putting down 1 more final coat of the sanding sealer. As luck goes with all my projects (bad luck somewhere) there is some major fisheye on the tops only. I cannot proceed till I get to the finish supply shop and buy some fisheye killer. After going to such an extent to prevent any problems like this, I can only assume that some parafin from a candle must have found thier way on the cabinet tops at one time or another. Here's how it looks at this point and from start to finish, this phase only took 1 hour. I will have to put down one more coat with the fisheye killer added. I hope it works!
Last edited by Audiobeer; 10-08-2003 at 06:37 PM.
Originally posted by Audiobeer
I can only assume that some parafin from a candle must have found thier way on the cabinet tops...I [size=huge]HATE[/size] that!! Speaker tops are not shelves, ladies! Aarrrrgggghhhhhhh!!!
So, Audiobeer, tell us what this "fisheye killer" is? That I've not heard of...
(BTW - thanks for deciding to post this great DIY session. I'll delete this post to keep your DIY thread, clean)
bo
"Indeed, not!!"
Bo: "Speaker tops are not shelves . . ."
Right on! Nor plant stands, nor drink tables. But they get used that way . . . . thus the wisdom of JBL's glass and marble cabinet tops.
David
Lookin' oh so fine!
This message comes from JBL Dog
Oustanding work!
The good news is I get to keep them! Considering I'm getting the 2235H's reconed, they will be as good as new!
So, my "Dog house" 5:1 surround will consist of 4343's as the mains, 4430's as the rears and UREI 815 as the center channel.
I really don't think I'll need a subwoofer.
Nice work, Audiobeer!
This message comes from JBL Dog
Just let us know when the opening party is planned. I'm shure we will have a good timeOriginally posted by JBL Dog
So, my "Dog house" 5:1 surround will consist of 4343's as the mains, 4430's as the rears and UREI 815 as the center channel.
This message comes from JBL Dog
I promise to come all the way from Europe
Audiobeer!
My respect to that perfect job. Keep us posted and good luck
Hello JBLDOG
Your just plains nuts!!! Great system movies you can feel!
Which version of the 815 do you have?? Is that the one out of the "Tent" ??? The Altec driver or the C with the JBL's. I have an 811C center and its just great for a "small" center.
Rob
Hi Audiobeer
Just gorgeous work! Wow, I'm in awe .
Your pictoral guidance will serve as a great roadmap in helping to restore my S99 enclosures . Thanks !
Earl K
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