4350 Driver Impedance

[edgewound]

For anyone considering this approach... the folks at TAD have had so many production problems with this technique, that they came out with an alternate lower cost design that did not require this technique. Fabrication isn't the main problem, it is what happens at all those glue joints as the wood naturally expands and contracts.


Widget

The whole TAD structure is clamped together from top to bottom with threaded rod. Waste becomes less of a problem if you use a CNC/router technique that maximizes the yield of your material by using open "C" sections stacked with a few closed sections as braces for a plank style baffle. It will be REALLY heavy. Why not try it? It just might be spectacular. And you'll have gained an experience in the process.

Have a look here: http://tadhomeaudio.com/

[hapy._.face]

snip'...by using open "C" sections stacked with a few closed sections as braces for a plank style baffle....'

Exactly as I envisioned it. The "C" section cut-outs could even interlock and share a "side" cut to maximize on material usage. Isn't 'heavy' what you want in enclosure design??
It may not end up exactly like I have it arranged in theory- but I just gotta try the concept out....

[Mr. Widget]

The whole TAD structure is clamped together from top to bottom with threaded rod.

Those threaded rods are for assembly... they are removed once the cabinet is built. The point of my post mentioning the problems that they have had with this technique is a cautionary tale... That technique can certainly be used, and several people are doing it. I only mentioned the downside as the two people that I have talked to that have built speakers using this technique, Andrew Jones of TAD and Alon Wolf of Magico, have both told me of the nightmares they have had getting successful cabinets made.

One thing to be very careful of is that every interior surface be completely sealed in epoxy resin... otherwise moisture will get into the wood and your glue lines will pop, or even the original plywood glue lines will pop if your cabinets aren't completely sealed inside and out. I've seen them this way even after they thought they were sealed... it isn't pretty.

Widget

[edgewound]

Exactly as I envisioned it. The "C" section cut-outs could even interlock and share a "side" cut to maximize on material usage. Isn't 'heavy' what you want in enclosure design??
It may not end up exactly like I have it arranged in theory- but I just gotta try the concept out....

Yes....heavy/dense is good. Fire-up that router, baby. Before you start making all that sawdust....please.....get yourself a good industrial respirator mask with replaceable filters. Not just a dust mask...a respirator. Give your lungs a break. Saw dust smells good, but it wasn't meant to inhaled....especially MDF or plywood. You can find them at Lowe's or Home depot....Around $30-$40.

[edgewound]

Not me, dude! I'm shooting the moon here- might get the tree branches at best. But at least I'm grounded in that reality. And hey- I might even learn something, or perfect a previously abandoned technique!

I like your thinking.

[Earl K]

- I recommend a quantity of appropriately sized test boxes be used to mock up any prospective project .

- They will save a lot of future grief and become useful mules for other projects .

- Make a baffle-plug ( that accepts a 10" ) that goes over the cutout for your preferred 12 incher. With a pair of 2122/3 mids on hand you can determine for yourself , if the acoustic handoff between 12" & a 15" is to your liking ( or not ).

[hapy._.face]

snip '....get yourself a good industrial respirator mask with replaceable filters'

Agreed. Thank you. I wouldn't be without mine. I did some (illegal) asbestos removal to save a few bucks and spent the money in protecting myself to the extreme. High-end respirator: "check".

Perhaps it's the router bits I'll chew through. I'm not quite at that stage- but rest assured pics will be posted when the time comes.

When I remind myself what plywood is (glued laminates of wood)- I'm not intimidated by the joins. I plan to keep the threaded rods intact, and make them an integral part of the cabinet. I could epoxy the gap left between the rod and hole. Plus, if my cabinet walls are 2" thick (and why not?)- It leaves plenty of room to put a few epoxy saturated decking screws into each successive layer. She'll be a heavy girl, alright.

Widget- I didn't know about the internal coating tip- thanks for potentially heading off disaster! I thought of putting a little wood filler in to fill in any voids- but that's probably not enough, huh?

[edgewound]

Perhaps it's the router bits I'll chew through. I'm not quite at that stage- but rest assured pics will be posted when the time comes.

You probably already know this....but invest in carbide bits....don't waste your time or money with high speed steel.

Love to see your progress. Hey....wanna come scrape my ceilings? J/K

Maybe the last several posts should be moved to DIY.

[hapy._.face]

Maybe the last several posts should be moved to DIY.

Agreed. I don't know how we did it- but somehow we are off topic!! WOW! Good thing that rarely happens!

I'll start a whole new thread in DIY when I have something more to document.

Thanks for the advice/encouragement Earl/Edge'/Widget.