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Thread: Nichicon Muse KZ Audio Electrolytic Caps

  1. #1
    RIP 2014 Ken Pachkowsky's Avatar
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    Nichicon Muse KZ Audio Electrolytic Caps

    Has anyone used these electrolytics and if so what is your impression compared to other esoteric brands like Blackgate etc?

    Ken

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    The Muse are a cut above the average capacitor.

    The Black Gates are tehnically better but will to not always lead to the desired expectation...and they take a long time to burn in and are very expensive.

    Like all this stuff its not that simple

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    RIP 2014 Ken Pachkowsky's Avatar
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    Yes

    Ian



    That’s the one consistent I keep running into.

    Boulder is sending me "free of charge for all 4 amps" 2 choices of Caps. The Nichicon KZ’s and Roederstein EKO series. Apparently clients have differing opinions on them so they are sending both.

    I approached the scenario as you suggested with stellar results. He wants me to change out the power relays as well so he is sending 8x NEC MR602-48SR's as well (Red Boxes on Input board). The 4x 3 watt resistors on the 500's are being replaced with 5 watt versions.

    I sure am impressed with this company. That’s 52 caps x2. Because I am changing them myself their paying the shipping.

    Unreal

    Ken
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    RIP 2010 scott fitlin's Avatar
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    I would prefer the Nichicons! I have some Nichicon Muse, and Silmic caps, and they are nice! They have a nice full, warm sound. They definitely sound good in the bottom.

    All the Blackgates I have had, and pieces that had Blackgates I didnt care for the way the top end sounded! Too dry sounding for me! Almost coarse sounding. Blackgates take an exceptionally long time to break in.
    scottyj

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    RIP 2014 Ken Pachkowsky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott fitlin
    I would prefer the Nichicons! I have some Nichicon Muse, and Silmic caps, and they are nice! They have a nice full, warm sound. They definitely sound good in the bottom.

    All the Blackgates I have had, and pieces that had Blackgates I didnt care for the way the top end sounded! Too dry sounding for me! Almost coarse sounding. Blackgates take an exceptionally long time to break in.
    Interesting, thanks for the input.

    I started desoldering the caps and ran into a shitty problem. No problem using my Pace desoldering tool on the back of the PCB but when I gently pull on the cap to take it out the top trace on the pcb is so tight around the cap lead I am pulling the trace off the top of the pcb. So far no serious damage that cant be fixed with jumping but I don't want to try anymore without a plan "B". I have removed 3 caps and with 2 I have ripped up the traces.

    Any suggestions?

    I will try and get a closeup photo.

    Ken

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    If this sounds stupid please disregard. What if you cut the lead and pull the leftover lead out from the bottom of board?

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    RIP 2014 Ken Pachkowsky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John
    If this sounds stupid please disregard. What if you cut the lead and pull the leftover lead out from the bottom of board?
    Far from stupid John, I was thinking the same thing. The problem is getting under them as they are mounted flush to the surface. I could cut them up as I don't want to save them. Split them with a dremel.

    Ken

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    RIP 2014 Ken Pachkowsky's Avatar
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    Trace Damage

    Here is the trace damage.

    Believe it or not, I was very gentle. Sure does not look like it.

    The eyelet circled in black has a piece of lead still stuck in it.

    I think cutting them off is the only thing I can think of. I will wait to here other suggestions. Like "send it to Boulder and let them do it "

    Ken

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    Well which ever way you do it take your time and do it right the first time. Get some good light in there so you are only cutting what needs to be cut. Post a picture pointing to the caps involved???

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    Photos

    Here
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    Yes I am with you lets get some more ideas from the experts. I know we will figure something out. There are a lot of fine minds on this forum

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    RIP 2010 scott fitlin's Avatar
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    You can glue that trace down to the board with some clear nail polish!

    You may have to make a fine wire jumper, youll have to get some Kynar wrapping wire, radio shack has this, its very fine ultra small gauge wire, and make a jumper/trace repair. Or have a skilled tech do it for you.

    Personally, I strongly recommend taking the amp to a good tech in your area and spend the money, and let him do it!
    scottyj

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    RIP 2014 Ken Pachkowsky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott fitlin
    You can glue that trace down to the board with some clear nail polish!

    You may have to make a fine wire jumper, youll have to get some Kynar wrapping wire, radio shack has this, its very fine ultra small gauge wire, and make a jumper/trace repair. Or have a skilled tech do it for you.

    Personally, I strongly recommend taking the amp to a good tech in your area and spend the money, and let him do it!

    I agree Scott. It would appear every one is going to peel and break. I am going to stop at this point and send the amps to Boulder and have them do it. He did elude to this being a problem but I thought he meant the back side traces not the top. With the caps being some 12-14 per amp in very tight places let them do it. I was trying to avoid the 2-3 weeks they said it would take. I can't believe how fragile the traces are. Every other board I have worked on the traces were much stronger and attached to the substrate much better. I can tell you one thing, they must have had to push hard to get those leads through the eyelets. There is no way you can remove them without damaging the traces. I tried using a PCB drill bit to drill them out but you all know that rarely works. Still, it did less damage to the traces.

    Its off to Colorado for the 250 and 1 of the 500's

    Thanks for helping guys.

    Ken

  14. #14
    Dang. Amateur speakerdave's Avatar
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    Hold the trace in place (with your third hand) while pulling?

    David

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    RIP 2014 Ken Pachkowsky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speakerdave
    Hold the trace in place (with your third hand) while pulling?

    David
    I would if I could but following the instructions the way they told me to do it prevents me from laying the board flat because its still attached to the output board with about 18 wires that would have to be un-soldered.

    Maybe I will remove the board completely. That would definately make it easier to work on.

    Thanks

    Ken

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