SR pros on this forum

[JuniorJBL]

Special thick white Velcro to accommodate the 2g tipover test.

[Earl K]

Hi,

$700 ea X6 =$4200

$700.00 a piece is a competitive price .

>< cheers

[JuniorJBL]

Hi,

$700.00 a piece is a competitive price .

>< cheers

Yes it is! I may still go that route.

[Zilch]

EconoWaves run ~$200 a pair for compression drivers, waveguides, crossover parts and boards.

You still have to provide woofers and cabinets.... :dont-know

[JuniorJBL]

EconoWaves run ~$200 a pair for compression drivers, waveguides, crossover parts and boards.

You still have to provide woofers and cabinets.... :dont-know

This is a very viable route as well. I would like to point out that I personally am providing the work and parts out of my own pocket. This would be why it could be a good DIY project. I can get a lot of help but the money will still come from the same place. This is my donation to the church. I do not want to skimp on quality but watching the $$$ fly out of my pocket is a concern as well.

Please help with anything that can be contributed to this cause.

I am sorry I did not put forth this info earlier but I am doing the absolute best that I can manage.

Once again THANKS for all who have given advice thus far and for all who continue to do so!!

[Zilch]

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/sho...d.php?t=150939

There's not much about the 6" and 8" waveguides in there, but some. Use "Search this Forum" to find it. There's over 5000 posts in that thread. The basics are all linked from Post #1.

If you have access to someone with cabinet-building skills, see Johnaec's thread on the floor monitors he built here on LHF for an idea of what's involved in doing a professional job of it. Note how he used JBL grilles purchased from JBL Pro Parts.

[JuniorJBL]

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/sho...d.php?t=150939

There's not much about the 6" and 8" waveguides in there, but some. Use "Search this Forum" to find it. There's over 5000 posts in that thread. The basics are all linked from Post #1.

If you have access to someone with cabinet-building skills, see Johnaec's thread on the floor monitors he built here on LHF for an idea of what's involved in doing a professional job of it. Note how he used JBL grilles purchased from JBL Pro Parts.

Thanks Zilch.

Cab skilz in my shop or my friend's (much bigger than mine and a master Cabinet Maker to boot!!)

That would not be a problem. Just want to have a fit-n-finish sound to the speaker.
I will run down that thread tonight!!

[Zilch]

If you have cab building capability, call JBL Pro Parts with the part number and ask for price and availability of 228H woofers. I expect they are available. Then decide if you want 90° or 120° horizontal dispersion and build AC18/95 or AC18/26 equivalents, either with E'Wave drivers and crossovers (I have the boards for $20 a pair) or with the stock tweeter and schematic. The black Duratex finish is know on this forum. The part numbers for the woofer, grille, and waveguides are on the tech sheets:

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/AE%.../AC1895-WH.pdf

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/AE%.../AC1826-WH.pdf

If you decide to go with the stock tweeters, get pricing for the networks, as well; sometimes they're cheaper than you can build DIY.

2408H(-1?) tweeters may be available from the notorious Hector on eBay.

Consider building your subs into the stage. Scott (SMKSoundPro) knows the drill on that; send him a PM and invite his advice here, if you and others think that approach might be workable....

[JuniorJBL]

Thanks for the info Zilch!

I Would also like some opinions on maybe putting some other speakers in the loft pointing at the first rows.:dont-know

I also wondered about putting 2 3115's in a horizontal line array on each side and trying to find 2 more 3115's for the center to do the same with. The reason I am thinking this is for mf/hf floor coverage. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. That would probably eliminate the need for others pointed at the first rows as well.


This morning went well!

Clarity was amazing!! Now it is time for some fine tuning. It is a lot nicer to have a system that you are not fighting/compensating for all of the problems and get on with a good clean mix!

[boputnam]

Front fills do not necessarily need to be fed with the full mix that going to the mains and should be high pass filtered around 125hz/150hz. If your mixer has an unused post fade aux you can create a mix just for the fills, with just vocal and maybe some lighter instruments. If your mixer has a matrix mix feature you could do some what the same thing by building a fill mix from the subgroups.

Good one...

[JuniorJBL]

Hi,

$700.00 a piece is a competitive price .

>< cheers

I did not mean to say I would not put forth the money, I just want to find the best option for the problem at hand. I would like to check all secnerios and then implement the best one. I really would like to do this one time. There is a lot of very qualifide indivduals on this forum to help me get to this point. If I have been rude please tell me and I will correct myself. I really do need/want your help.

[Earl K]

I Would also like some opinions on maybe putting some other speakers in the loft pointing at the first rows.:dont-know

- You appear to be asking a question about "an either or scenario" ( & I'm guessing because of some unstated cosmetic issues ) .

- Re ; Coverage from "Front-Fills" or "Down-Fill" ( for the first three rows ) / which choice offers the greatest efficacy ?

- If that's the pertinant question, then my answer is; "Front Fills" ( for various reasons ).

- One example ; "Front fills" should represent less of an issue from "on stage feedback" / vs / flown down-fills providing they are driven from a separate board feed ( as suggested by Mike )
- Your present setup is blessed with a modest degree of acoustic separation that occurs between your main clusters and your stage area / I suggest that you don't throw that away .

>< cheers

[Earl K]

I also wondered about putting 2 3115's in a horizontal line array on each side and trying to find 2 more 3115's for the center to do the same with. The reason I am thinking this is for mf/hf floor coverage. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. That would probably eliminate the need for others pointed at the first rows as well.

- I think this approach is really more trouble than it's worth .
- You're essentially talking about creating a high-powered down-fill .

- As I see it, to keep the two stacked cabinets from overlapping their primary coverage patterns ( thus creating lobbing ), either the main top box or ( the bottom ) downfill cabinet is going to be aimed in such a way so that one of them is going to spill onto some area that doesn't need or want reinforcement.
- The only way to tell for sure is to look at an CAD elevation of the whole setup / with all the enclosures & their coverage patterns mapped in .

>< cheers

[JuniorJBL]

- You appear to be asking a question about "an either or scenario" ( & I'm guessing because of some unstated cosmetic issues ) .

Yes this is what i was asking. Sorry I was unclear about that.

- Re ; Coverage from "Front-Fills" or "Down-Fill" ( for the first three rows ) / which choice offers the greatest efficacy ?

- If that's the pertinant question, then my answer is; "Front Fills" ( for various reasons ).

- One example ; "Front fills" should represent less of an issue from "on stage feedback" / vs / flown down-fills providing they are driven from a separate board feed ( as suggested by Mike )
- Your present setup is blessed with a modest degree of acoustic separation that occurs between your main clusters and your stage area / I suggest that you don't throw that away .

>< cheers

Ok This has answered my delima that I have been causing myself

Thanks Earl!!

I will start to do some looking as to maybe some used equipment but the overall package may be to just get matching right from the get-go.
Amps may be eaiser to find used vs spec'd speakers for this install.

[Earl K]

This morning went well!

Clarity was amazing!! Now it is time for some fine tuning. It is a lot nicer to have a system that you are not fighting/compensating for all of the problems and get on with a good clean mix!

- Then I'd suggest leaving things sit for a while ( just not 3 1/2 years ) .

>< cheers