there's a pair of L5s and a pair of L3s at auction now, don't they both use 708G?
That's how I approach this stuff. I'd buy another pair and part one out. All kinds of goodies to be had when you part one out and selling parts might even pay for the pair you bought.
But patience will deliver a pair of 708G drivers too. Sooner or later they will turn up.
Hi to all.
Been following this thread with interest since the beggining.I have owned a pair of L7's for 17 years and refuse to upgrade.I have upgraded everything else several times,but have yet to find anything else(other than the Focal Utopias) that ring my bell.Well,my mid went out but the speaker is fine.I'm assuming the problem is in the crossover.Is getting a replacement an impossible task.Can it be repaired? Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks,Ray
I've seen a number of folks selling parted out L7s on ebay in the last few months ... I'm guessing tweeters and such are the big seller, crossovers and cabinets usually less so ...
Wait a bit, one should turn up
(tho' you may have to buy a pair to get one ...)
I don't have any personal experience with this seller,
can't vouch for him, but I see he's been selling down a parted-out pair - maybe he has crossovers?
http://myworld.ebay.com/extremesounds100/
2ch: WiiM Pro; Topping E30 II DAC; Oppo, Acurus RL-11, Acurus A200, JBL Dynamics Project - Offline: L212-TwinStack, VonSchweikert VR-4
7: TIVO, Oppo BDP103D, B&K, 2pr UREI 809A, TF600, JBL B460
He's sold several pairs of L7s as parts. The last two pairs of crossovers he had sold for close to $140 each pair: http://ebayitem.com/380090346325
He sold the last pair of LE120H-1's he had for $250.
I found it hard to believe, too: http://ebayitem.com/380091826503
Seems like I'm sort of foolish not to part out my extra pair.
I figured he'd already tried that since he said the speaker was working. :dont-know
Easy to remove.I've never heard of anybody actually getting them repaired.I read a thread once that JBL couldn't/wouldn't help.Ive been dreading the day that they crapped out because I knew I'd have this problem.Thanks
Surely there must be some local electronics enthusiast who could help you. He/she ought to be able to look at the parts, identify them, test the values, inspect the solder and wires, and effect a fix. My son is no speaker builder, but I did fund him to several years at DeVry and it's amazing what he can figure out.
Plus, we have the schematics for someone to follow.
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Te...et/L7%20ts.pdf
Out.
Well Folks
I am done. After thinking about this I have decided that I will piece out all parts for my beloved L5 speakers. I have had the driver in question checked and it can not be put back to factory spec. So I am breaking them down and selling out everything to fund a DIY or some local Utopias. Good Drivers, servicable crossovers, pristine cabinets, grills, and rare pedestals will be available. Re-Setting my pay pal and moving forward this weekend. I figured since you all have been so helpful I would alert forum folk first.
Last edited by Ed K; 02-19-2009 at 08:49 AM. Reason: Info
Sorry to hear of your decision. Certainly they're yours to do whatever you want with, but the reality is the only part of an L5 that brings any money on Ebay is the tweeters and they'll be lucky to net you $75 for the pair after fees and time. L7s have some desirable 12" woofers. The L5s don't.
If it were me (and it well might be some day), I'd give it a little while longer to come up with the one component you need. They're much more fun when they're working than just the leftover bits you'll end up with. If you do decide to part them anyway, put me down for any of the emblems you can remove without damaging them. I'll make sure at least that much lives on the way they were intended.
Good luck.
Sure
Put me down for any of the emblems you can remove without damaging them. I'll make sure at least that much lives on the way they were intended.
Working on this also.Its a lot harder to find someone to even look at it then I thought it would be.This was the first avenue I took.I figured how hard can it be to test a circuit board when we know exactly what the problem is? I live in the boonies in N.H.-that seems to be the problem.I was hoping someone online would say that it was an easy fix and they could do it.But thats doesn't seem to be the case either.The L7'S are worth my effort-I'll make calls to the BIG city(Boston area)Thanks
Before tossing in the towel...
Do R3, R4, or L3 look smoked? Do you have and know how to use an
ohmmeter? These parts are all in series and each could act as a blown
fuse (although both R3 and R4 would have to be blown together).
Across R3 or R4 you should read 2.4 ohms. Across L3, probably less
than an ohm. C7 (whether working or open-circuit) should allow you
to read these values in-circuit (without pulling the parts).
R5 would have to short to keep a signal from coming through
(unlikely).
With an audible, but low signal from your receiver/amp, you -could- work your
way backwards through the 'map' (the schematic diagram) until you get
a signal... just use the speaker as your test probe. Keep the volume down
and you won't hurt the mid.
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