Jasper circle JIG Model 200

[Ian Mackenzie]

Has anyone got experience with this JIG,

I'm about to order one for the baffle cutting of the 4345.

The reviews on Parts Express appear very good. (Model 200)


Ian

[4313B]

Frankly, I don't remember what I used to do without one. I've been through a few of them already. I would never be without one again.

[Ian Mackenzie]

Cool,

Its a must have then,

Ian

[boputnam]

Originally posted by Giskard
Frankly, I don't remember what I used to do without one. I've been through a few of them already. I would never be without one again.

Completely agree.

I had posted on this somewhere else Router and Circle Jig - Link and on the quarantined Thread. They are phenomenal.

Some other suggestions - if your a newbie to this "sport", get this, too: Working with the Router - Link certainly more than you'll need, but that's the way reference material should be.

Get a plunge router. They save millions of crummy little steps.

And, use a backing board, and drill yourself a guide hole through both the baffle and the backing board. Put your guide through both, and after the half-way point, turn the baffle over and finish the cut from the other side. That guide in the backing board will keep things positioned solidly until you are done.

And as Earl K would remind, Goggles and some dang ear muffs - afterall, if you ruin your hearing why are you doing all this work!

[Ian Mackenzie]

Guys,

Thanks for the ideas & links.

Thankfully my Dad will be assisting.

He has a very well equiped workshop, complete with plung router etc and quite a bit of experience. It will be a precise & exacting job with some care and planning.

The plan is to cut out the existing baffle leaving a 50mm lip around the edges, I'll use the Black & Decker Jigsaw for that.

The new baffle will be a 18+18mm MDF laminated with PVA glue for strength and cut so the mid dog box slots into a retangle cut out tbrough the inner layer of MDF. This will make a neat fit and brace the baffle around the circle cut outs.

The edges of the baffle will be hardwood with a 18mm curve radius cut using the router. Then its a matter screwing & glue the new baffle down on the face.

I will try and replicate as close to the original baffle as possible complete with front plate and level contols. I color will be a challenge..I have tried previously and failed twice..ending up the the Greek Islands in the living room and a lot of rude remarks...Muhahaha.

My neighbour/buddy is a graphics teacher at the local tech college and has offered to do the artwork & make the face plates.

So it will be a great project and will keep you posted.

Ian

Hey Bo ..where are you in that picture.....Come on its time for your portrait buddy. No need to be shy as the proud owner of those 4345's right boys

[boputnam]

Originally posted by Ian Mackenzie
Thankfully my Dad will be assisting.

The plan is to cut out the existing baffle leaving a 50mm lip around the edges.

The new baffle will ... cut so the mid dog box slots into a retangle cut out tbrough the inner layer of MDF.

The edges of the baffle will be hardwood with a 18mm curve radius cut using the router. Then its a matter screwing & glue the new baffle down on the face.

So it will be a great project and will keep you posted.

Hey, Ian...

First, when the hell do you sleep? Man. You are out here at the weirdest hours (that is if Melbourne is really your home, or merely your Internet home... )

Some thoughts - forgive my imprudence:

First, what are you dismantling and cutting the baffle from?

Second, I've had some trouble getting airtight that "new baffle mounting to the lip of the old" scheme. A real pain in the arse to test stuff until the final glue-job is done. No hints here, just a rant...

Third, I'd NOT cut a hole through the baffle for that MD subenclosure / doghouse. There are baffle structural issues to consider, and there would be more areas to ensure are airtight for the 2245H. I'd mount it on the rear of the baffle like JBL did, if possible. I think they did this smartly.

Please do, keep us posted.

And, there is a picture of me while on the Forum. It was posted some time ago... I am NOT on the adkins diet. Ha!

[Ian Mackenzie]

The time is 1.09 pm in the afternoon here in inner bayside St Kilda , the sun is over the yard arm so its time to crack a stubbie of VB...I need it after my birthday bash last night.


http://www.onefitzroystreet.com.au/

Some thoughts - forgive my imprudence:
Your welcome.......any ideas please post

First, what are you dismantling and cutting the baffle from?

From the Dogone existing speaker dude Muuuauau I'mean hello (sorry can't help it today)

The baffle is permenantly glued/screwed in. I thought about inserting a partially baffle..but that would be messy.

Second, I've had some trouble getting airtight that "new baffle mounting to the lip of the old" scheme. A real pain in the arse to test stuff until the final glue-job is done. No hints here, just a rant...

Hey I hear ya there Bo, thats a good point, I better check with my straight edge and also the dog box, you are right. Did they use cleats around the dog box??

Here is my favourite cross section of the 4343, I figure the 4345 must be similar? In this box they appear to have router'd a shallow recess to position the dog box.

What a ya reckon?

Ian

Ps I like your picture

[Ian Mackenzie]

Here is a previous image of the 4345/4430 box,

As you may be able to see, the baffle is flush mounted and fairly smooth. The original baffle is actually 50mm mdf.

I have procrastinated for a while over what to do and how, and each time I see putting a new baffle down over the original (after cutting it out as the easiest/best option.

The structural problem with mounting the 2307 in the existing format is that the 2344 hole is square, and there is not enough room for the slot and 2307, also the 2307 cannot be positioned close enough to the 2122 mid because of a 2 x 4 brace on the baffle allowing the top section to be removable. And I would like the 2122 mid to be offset from the centre, here it gets mess to attempt to alter the existing baffle.

Ian

[boputnam]

Originally posted by Ian Mackenzie
Here is a previous image of the 4345/4430 box,

Here it gets mess to attempt to alter the existing baffle.

Man, what a NICE problem to have!!! Whoa... A cornucopia of transducers!

That cut-away view of the 4343 is nearly priceless. So, that's our FIRST order of business!! You been holdin' out, boy! Come on!!! Gimme some MORE!! Go ahead and email me anything you got like that!

But, to the question of the lowMF subenclosure, I would definately at a maximum route a little groove to nest the doghouse into, but I would not go too deep. And no, there are no cleats around the doghouse - it is only glued in.

That brings-up another point: The fewer the miscellaneous clamps, brackest, etc., the better. There are hella vibrations in the 4345 cabinet, and it tries persistently to vibrate itself apart. These had a nasty BUZZ when I got 'em that I sourced to the rear-support bracket on the 2421B. I ultimately may have to glue the screws in, if lock-washers don't hold on my next entering (pics when I do...).

Hella vibrations, but that's what we're looking for, thanks to you, Dr. 2245H!!

[Ian Mackenzie]

Hmm,

A cornucopia of transducers, thats a newy, I put it in Bablefish and got the response: "does not compute Will Robinson...please explain"

Ian

[Ian Mackenzie]

Bo,

Well you asked for it, here's how the opposition did it:

Ian

[Ian Mackenzie]

Here's a nice table

Ian

[Ian Mackenzie]

Then theres my complete wifey guide to speaker building, bound to be a boom around here,

Ian

[Ian Mackenzie]

Go for it honey,

Ian

[Ian Mackenzie]

Groovy baby,

Ian