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Thread: 275nd / S3100 compatibility

  1. #76
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget
    I assume Zilch would help out in this...
    Well, sure.

    It ain't as if nobody does stuff for ME here, you know.

    [To what end remains unclear.... ]

  2. #77
    Senior Member Jan Daugaard's Avatar
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    Sonoglass-like material

    Hi Widget!

    What is the sonoglass-like material you are using for horns and other loudspeaker parts? What does it cost and where is it available?

    Jan D.

  3. #78
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    It is a mineral filled urethane resin. It is quite dense and has physical properties that seem very similar to that of the Sonoglass horns I have seen. Structurally is may not be as strong... but since horns are not typically stress tested, that shouldn't be an issue. It could be an issue for a thin walled PA horn that sees a lot of physical abuse. Come to think of it, I am not sure if JBL uses Sonoglass for any PA horns...?

    The material I am using is from BJB and is called TC-1630. I pay about $70 for a gallon kit of the stuff... and shipping is expensive too.

    http://www.bjbenterprises.com/index.php

    http://www.bjbenterprises.com/pdf/TC-1630.pdf


    Widget

  4. #79
    Senior Member Bernard Wolf's Avatar
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    Hi Mr. Widget,

    Tell me,if you would be so kind, how you think this material might work out applied to the back of a H3100 for sound absorption. I presently have applied a layer of automotive type deadening material to the horn but can still feel the sound waves from the bass driver radiating into the horn.. I was planning on another thicker layer but this resin sounds interesting. Could it be built up in layers to an appreciable thickness and do you think it would adhere?

    Thanks - Bernard
    JBL S3100, VPI HM19 MKIV w/SAMA, Moerch UP4 , Clearaudio Victory H, AN-S1 step up, Audio Note M2 Phono, Perreaux PMF 1850.

  5. #80
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    You would need to build a mold behind the horn and pour the material into that cavity... it would certainly add mass and lower the resonant frequency as well as require more energy to excite it. How rigid are those horns? I have seen them over at Zilch's, but I don't remember if they were very rigid or a bit more flexible... some of the JBL horns are rather flimsy. If they are not terribly rigid the BJB mineral filled material would likely be a big help.

    If they are very rigid, I think I would apply many coats of a brush-on rubber material, or you could cast a thick layer of this hard rubber... it is similar to car tire rubber when cured.

    http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilypr...d=148&catid=14

    Alternatively you could use the techniques used with the Altec horns... damping compounds, tar etc.


    Here are a couple of pics of one of my raw (not cleaned up and painted) cast horns and throat adapters. They weigh 60lbs each!


    Widget
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  6. #81
    Dang. Amateur speakerdave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget
    They weigh 60lbs each!
    Yes.

  7. #82
    Senior Member Guido's Avatar
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    Very nice horns!

  8. #83
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guido
    Very nice horns!
    Yeah, it'd be nice if we could see the HORN part....

  9. #84
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zilch
    Yeah, it'd be nice if we could see the HORN part....
    That didn't seem relevant to the conversation... hey Zilch I have a relevant question for you. How rigid are the mini-Everest horns? Are they as rigid as acrylic or more like polypropylene?


    Widget

  10. #85
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Rigid like acrylic. Half the thickness of 2344s or 2380s, same material, seems like. In S2600, they're isolated in a separate chamber. Not so with S3100....

  11. #86
    Senior Member Bernard Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zilch
    Rigid like acrylic. Half the thickness of 2344s or 2380s, same material, seems like. In S2600, they're isolated in a separate chamber. Not so with S3100....
    they are quite ridgid and could probably take a lot of weight if one were to go this route.. very interesting. .. have been thinking about it and it might not be all that difficult to make a mold behind the horn. There is a distributer in Montreal for this material which makes it doubly interesting.. a winter project perhaps ?? sure do wish I could find that other 275nd though.. now that would be a great project !!

    Bernard

  12. #87
    Senior Member Bernard Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget

    If they are very rigid, I think I would apply many coats of a brush-on rubber material, or you could cast a thick layer of this hard rubber... it is similar to car tire rubber when cured.

    http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=148&catid=


    Widget
    Mr. Widget

    Same question though.. would it adhere to the horn ?? Important consideration... also, isn't rubber rather transmisive ?

    Bernard

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