I think it is that way to some asian as well......
what is the mother tounge of Norway?
I think it is that way to some asian as well......
what is the mother tounge of Norway?
Norwegian. It is similar to Swedish and Danish.Originally Posted by louped garouv
It is not much like English, but we are fortunately a so small country that films are subtitled, not dubbed.
Johnny Haugen Sørgård
I guessed that was the case. I hope you don't take offense, I am laughing at language, not at you. We have had many discussions on line and I have been very impressed with your command of English.BTW it is blank in Norwegian....
Widget
Thank you very much.
As you already know I am a software developer. All work is done in English, even though the user interface is in Norwegian.
Also with the internet we have started cross country development. No borders.
Johnny Haugen Sørgård
Im'a sure itsa better than me own sayins.
It was funny tho...
The best method that works for me is to use materials and glue available to the original designer of the speaker. That means no silicone or superglue, just kraft paper, latex cement etc. Better yet, try to use paper from a discarded speaker of the same vintage as a patch and latex or water based paste for glue. To preserve the look of the cone, attach the patch from the rear of the cone and then work in some thinned out glue into the crack from the front.
Well, it seems that what he's referring to here, is a tear in the fabric surround itself. If I understand the original post correctly, it's not the paper that's torn, it's the fabric...
Given that, the idea of fabric adhesive sounds like a decent plan. Just be sure to use AS SMALL OF AN AMOUNT as possible, to bond the edges together... as so not to overly stiffen the repaired area. But, since fabric glue is inherently intended to be flexible when cured, it should worik.
Otherwise, it may be possible, for a very deft, talented reconer, to remove and replace the whole surround. The 515 should have a rather "standard" corregated surround... it may be possible, to order a suitable replacement fabric surround (I've been able to order similar ones before, for JBL K140s, JBL 2225s, and other fabric-surrounded units, so there may well be one that's the correct dimensions and properties for that Altec around), install it, and re-coat it with the original-type "goop" (Waldom AA-75 is the closest commercially available compound to the original Altec coating... it's got pretty much identical acoustical properties, from my measurements and listening), and have a speaker that's truly "good to go" for the long haul...
But, to re-iterate the advice given above- I too would NOT use superglue on a fabric surround. It will cause a stiff place, which will be a "stress riser"... and will likely cause tearing of the surround AROUND the patched point.
If it were an emergency, this is one case where I'd rather see someone use silicone sealer, rather than superglue or white glue... usually silicone is the bane of a reconer's existance, but in a very limited application JUST on the fabric, it would be better than any sort of 'hard-set" glue or adhesive...
Regards,
Gordon.
Hi louped garouv,
There really was no "515A", although the original 515 is often referred to as the A because of the later B and C. The 515 began production in 1944 as part of the new Voice of the Theatre systems. The earliest ones have a red, white and blue decal, later ones have a gold and grey decal. They have a paper edge cone and a phenolic spider.
From your description, it sounds as though your drivers may have been reconed with the later type cone with accordian cloth surround. Is this the case?
For repair of paper cone cracks and tears, I don't recommend cyanoacrylate or "super" glue. It sets up very hard and does not have adequate flexibility. The way I make paper repairs is to thin a yellow wood glue (like Titebond) slightly with water, and apply it sparingly to the tear with a fine artist's brush after the fibers have been put back into position. On long tears a few temporary transparent tape gussets on the rear of the cone will help hold everything in position. As the glue sets up, pressing gently from both sides will help the fibers mend back together. When dry, the repair will have about the same flexibility as the rest of the cone, and only a slightly dark line to give evidence of the repair.
sorry I have not located mny camera as of yet (maybe tonight) but anyway....
the driver has the gold and grey decal... and the accordian cloth surround...
sorry I wasn't more clear, but Gordon is read my intent right...
I will try the fabric glue for the tear in the cloth surround.....
should that glue also work for adhearing the surround to the cone as well?
you guys are the best, THANKS A BUNCH
and like I Said before, I will post pics when I find that damn camera
Yes, the fabric glue should work just fine, bonding to paper. Any sort of "fibrous" material, should be bondable with that agent. So, attaching the surround back to the cone should be quite well achieved, with the same glue...sorry I have not located mny camera as of yet (maybe tonight) but anyway....
the driver has the gold and grey decal... and the accordian cloth surround...
sorry I wasn't more clear, but Gordon is read my intent right...
I will try the fabric glue for the tear in the cloth surround.....
should that glue also work for adhearing the surround to the cone as well?
you guys are the best, THANKS A BUNCH
and like I Said before, I will post pics when I find that damn camera
Regards,
Gordon.
I will swing by the fabric store on the way home......
happy happy joy joy
happy happy joy joy
happy happy joy joy
happy happy joy joy
happy happy joy joy
I actually have 515B,s... and haven't had a chance to take pics or do the repair, but I have pulled the unit in question out of the cabinet....
But I shopped around at another respectable vintage forum looking for more advice on how to repair the 515,s surround, and got this one back:
"For the accordion surround, cut a small patch out of an old pair of nylons, use a hair dryer to heat up the impregnating 'goo', dab the patch on, 'burying' it as best you can. Normally, there's some excess that's 'puddled' at the bottom that you can heat up and smear over the patch to ~completely hide it."
seems like the least risky to me, but i dunno...
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