How do you like the Emotivas?
How do you like the Emotivas?
Ya they look pretty crazy.. I will be installing the grills back on once I get them dialed in.Originally Posted by badman
The dynamics are awesome!
The 120Ti sounds amazing, they surely do. Yup, I tried both positions on the switches. Had them singing for 3 weeks and loved it, they throw a really nice soundstage and they have great attack too. Kept them around because they're to darn good to give up for what they're worth. After three weeks of adjusting to the 120Ti and going back to the 4343B I actually had to check all connections, because I thought there was something wrong with the highs in the big boys, haha. Comes to show how we adapt.
The ugly glue is so far out on the cone that it would probably look like a complete mess if I masked it with black (but probably better than now still... I've thought about just getting new dust caps and try to remove it with a scalpel, but I'm sure the glue has sucked up into the cone, and will not be easy to make it look good. Also, the dust caps will probably be a different shade, making it look weird... Who said vintage was easy?
I've got the grills, and while the fabric is good, the frames need work as they've broken a couple of places. They're in some type of PVC/plastic and heat glue didn't bite, neither did super glue, so I'll need something better.
Thanks for the links regarging the 044Ti. When I oiled them up I only took out the woofer, and it was hard to get it out as it was stuck. Gently used a hair dryer and some thin cardboard distributed evenly around the basket. Getting the ass horn out of 4430 was somewhat similar, and I hate those kinds of jobs as it's easy to make a mistake and destroy something.
Not looking forward to get in behind the dome of the 044Ti, that's what's been holding me back. Gave up on getting the midrange driver out when I oiled them as I was afraid I might melt the cone/surround with the hair dryer or heat gun, so I'm not sure how to get it out to do a full overhaul of the cabs.
I like them a lot! The only gripe I have with them is they run hot. When idling I measured 130w/ea at the mains, and if class A/B is 50 % efficient, then pulling 50w for music yields about 360w total in heat. During Summer it's like a sauna down there when those guys are running, so I've actually replaced them with something inferior (vintage Denon POA 1500) and have them in storage until winterAlso, with the main speakers 4343B I've got a custom xover, which require me to do active between the bass and the rest, so I've never heard them fully on the 4343B, only in bass and highs. Bass is awesome, great attack and control. In the highs I think they are very neutral and they have some depth to them. It's not forward and one dimensional sort of. It's great bang for the buck imo.
My experience says 4430 likes more forward amps. I've played 4430 with them a ton, and while it sounds great, 4430 is a little bit lacking in the mids, they sound a bit nasal, and XPR-1's doesn't make it better. The bass is awesome. Fast & hard attack, good extension and tight grip. With 120Ti it's wonderful. You get great soundstage with depth, again the the attack is just wonderful and, well, they're great amps. I think that the XPR's together with 250Ti would be something very, very special, but never heard the 250's only drooled at pictures.
I have to say it looked really nice at the time of this picture, now it looks like a complete mess down there, lol.
After I got the 4343B I rearranged, here xover through Ashly XR1001 and Emotiva all the way, flipped between XPR-1 and XPA-2 in top & bottom; let's just say it was 'hot times'. Had to make support underneath the rack because it was not rated for the 100 Kg I put on it, hehe.
Now it looks like this down there, as I said, a complete mess. Vintage Denon POA 1500, which I put amber leds in, for the highs (those VU-meters are hot), QSC GX 5 with fan mod for the 2235h's and a clone of LabGruppens FP14000 for the subs. The clone is outside the room due to the vacuum fan on it. MiniDSP 4x10 HD for xover, bass management and EQ in general.
As can be seen from the pictures, things have a tendency to take off... Out with decor, in with big stuff.
Very nice .. and interesting.. set up you have.
MiniDSP: Do you have any personal experience with the MiniDSP DDRC-22A Dirac Live® powered stereo analog processor for 24/96 operation?
I so in need of Bass equalization .. this is at this time my weakest link in my system.
Even though the 4 Bass Energizers put out some descent Bass, it still needs to be addressed as far as equalization as does all systems.
I would like to have more bass output as well as all 4 energizers are operating at 80%, would like to be able to turn them all down to 50%.
Maybe once the bass is equalized I will be content with the energizers internal stock crossover/amp section.
If not.. I am looking at a Bryston 7B ST Pro to run all 4 or possibly running with some MiniDSP amps..
You definitely have your priorities straight. 4get the décor and bring in the big stuff, What ever it takes!
Just need a bigger room like yours so I can build a pair of 4350/55 and 6 more of those subs in a couple of towers, haha.
Sorry to disappoint, but unfortunately don't have any experience with the Dirac seriesOnly briefly with 2x4 and nanoDIGI in addition to 4x10 HD. If we extrapolate from the performance of the latter compared to Ashley XR1001 and original UREI with cards for 4343, I think you'd be hard pressed to find something with better performance in that price range though.
However, I hear great things about the Hypex DLCP and it's supposed to be a little more transparent compared to 4x10 HD (which those who have tried both say is extremely great but has a tiny bit of veil), but then you need to do some DIY. More expensive options are Groundsound DCN28 or DEQX HDP4 (IIR). Not heard any of these.
A couple of gripes with 4x10HD is the lack of display to show the volume (you need to have it hooked up to a computer to see it in their software or listen while you change the volume) and lack of on/off switch, you physically need to unhook the plug or install a switch on the main lead. But the ADDA is good imo, better than the 2x4 @ $100 bucks. A great thing about 4x10 HD and miniDSP is the ability of performing live adjustments on the fly while you listen. The UMIK-1 is also easy to integrate with open source REW. I'm still new to all of this myself, and should not be considered a good source for advice on these matters, however, it's a great way to get your feet wet if you've not played around with these things in the past.
Looks like we're both on the path to bass nirvanaFully agree with your plan on bass management. It'll probably be night and day. It sure was here; without linkwitz transform in the bass, my sealed enclosures does not have tons of output at the lowest octaves, and it's also nice being able to have several settings optimized for different things (linearity, boosted bass etc) available with the click of a button.
You'll get hooked on the flexibility no matter which of the DSP unit you choose.
on the 044 removal , the woof has to be out ... box laid on it's back ...one hand in the woof opening and underneath the driver as you unscrew. The 044 will drop back into the cab and hopefully onto your hand.
the dome/plinth removal ? my pry technique worked once, but on the later pair ... the carefully inserted knife blade to separate the double sided tape was more effective that time.
As I recall ...and this was 3 weeks ago (beyond the storage limit of recent memory) , on the mid ...remove the screws and reach in through the woof opening and give the mid's rear a light smack with the butt of your hand.
The easiest way to get stuck woofs out (for me) is to lay cabs on their face , on carpet , roll up a bath towel and place under the top edge (but not far enough to be under the tweet), then pick up that one edge 6-8 inches and let it drop onto the towel. Cab stops, but woof keeps on falling . usually.
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles
"As I recall ...and this was 3 weeks ago (beyond the storage limit of recent memory) , on the mid ...remove the screws and reach in through the woof opening and give the mid's rear a light smack with the butt of your hand."
does the isolation cup or tube (behind the mid) come off when the screws are removed?
My bomb:
Nice.
What are those?
Are they from Kenrick Sound?
SB
Looks like your basic 4343 Monitors in industrial finish (grey paint),
instead of the usual walnut veneer ...
Since a lot of studio monitors were soffit mounted,
there wasn't much point in paying for a fine veneer that would never be seen.
Except for the wood veneer, they are like Dingding's 4343 monitors (formerly Rolf's monitors) below ...[
2ch: WiiM Pro; Topping E30 II DAC; Oppo, Acurus RL-11, Acurus A200, JBL Dynamics Project - Offline: L212-TwinStack, VonSchweikert VR-4
7: TIVO, Oppo BDP103D, B&K, 2pr UREI 809A, TF600, JBL B460
The only James B. Lansing sp. I have is
the one he saw ..in his living years...the A7
Current JBL holdings, way too much for me & my storage:
Systems - 4345,4430,4435,L300,L100T;
Drivers - 2122H, LE15A,2231A/H,136A,2234H,2235H,2420,2425H/J,2445H/J,2404,077;
Horns & Adapters - H91,2309,2311,H92,2312,2327,2328,2370A,2380A,2382A ,2397,RND 1" 7x21;
Lenses - L91,2308,2310,unknown 2308-type; and,
XOvers - 3106,3107,3110A,3115A,3120A,N333/3133,5235 active.
Probably a few more not documented.
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