Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Empty Metregon cabinet

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Noblesville, Indiana
    Posts
    5

    Empty Metregon cabinet

    I recently purchased a JBL Metregon that at some point was stripped of its speaker components and crossovers (the 2 back panels are also missing). Underneath the cabinet are 2 thin wooden plates that have writing on them (see pics). Each plate seems to read, "C45-82." I know the "C45" indicates a Metregon cabinet but it seems odd that simply "82" is written and not "282" or "S82." Either of those two component options would indicate the (once) presence of a pair of 375 drivers. But taking a peek inside the cabinet, it looks like it was set up for a "202" combination (075 bullet tweeter and D123 12" woofer). There seems to be wooden blocking plates covering the openings for a mid/high horn. I have a set of LE15A 15" woofers removed from my Olympus speakers that I was thinking of installing in the Metregon but now I'm not so sure what speaker combination I should choose. Changing the mounting boards for a 15" woofer instead of a 12" looks like a major hassle. Should I worry about trying to match the original components (?82 or 202?) to maintain a high value? Switch to a 3-way system? Does anyone have a pair of H5041 horns if I go that route? This is getting complicated... Name:  JBL Metregon 2.jpg
Views: 1438
Size:  98.9 KBName:  JBL Metregon 3.jpg
Views: 1369
Size:  108.4 KBName:  JBL Metregon 1.jpg
Views: 1635
Size:  103.9 KBName:  JBL Metregon 4.jpg
Views: 1916
Size:  87.1 KB

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Boulder Creek, CA
    Posts
    403
    Quote Originally Posted by paullusjoe View Post
    I recently purchased a JBL Metregon that at some point was stripped of its speaker components and crossovers (the 2 back panels are also missing). Underneath the cabinet are 2 thin wooden plates that have writing on them (see pics). Each plate seems to read, "C45-82." I know the "C45" indicates a Metregon cabinet but it seems odd that simply "82" is written and not "282" or "S82." Either of those two component options would indicate the (once) presence of a pair of 375 drivers. But taking a peek inside the cabinet, it looks like it was set up for a "202" combination (075 bullet tweeter and D123 12" woofer). There seems to be wooden blocking plates covering the openings for a mid/high horn. I have a set of LE15A 15" woofers removed from my Olympus speakers that I was thinking of installing in the Metregon but now I'm not so sure what speaker combination I should choose. Changing the mounting boards for a 15" woofer instead of a 12" looks like a major hassle. Should I worry about trying to match the original components (?82 or 202?) to maintain a high value? Switch to a 3-way system? Does anyone have a pair of H5041 horns if I go that route? This is getting complicated... Name:  JBL Metregon 2.jpg
Views: 1438
Size:  98.9 KBName:  JBL Metregon 3.jpg
Views: 1369
Size:  108.4 KBName:  JBL Metregon 1.jpg
Views: 1635
Size:  103.9 KBName:  JBL Metregon 4.jpg
Views: 1916
Size:  87.1 KB
    Greetings new member -

    The number 82 corresponds with the part number for that silly Masonite cover that was required because the outer diameter of the 15" speaker basket is flush with the outside bottom of the cabinet. The official designation for the part is: C45-82 Cover, speaker slot. The part the cover is stapled to is designated the C45-107 Bottom panel. I actually own a complete drawing package for the Metregon.

    Would it have killed JBL to make the cabinet 7/8" taller? Apparently so.


    The baffle that was used for a 15" woofer, 075, and H5041 horn was a special order. I would hope that option was made of plywood, not the floor underlayment JBL was partial to. Way too much weight on a flimsy baffle that resembles Swiss cheese. Trying to use an 075 and the H5040 horn is an impossibility with the stock baffle, as the H5040 / LE85 assembly causes an interference problem with the 075 unless you use the 175 motor instead of the LE 85, then you can go 3 way with a 15" basket if you chose. Finding a pair, much less a single H5041 on Ebay are as scarce as hens teeth. As such they command a small fortune. Finding one without a broken leg would be a real treat.



    Here are the component options for the Metregon in 1962: http://www.lansingheritage.org/image.../page16-17.jpg

    Yes, the baffle is a royal pain in the ass to remove. A piss poor design in my opinion. The Metregon however, is one of my favorite systems. It's on my build list this winter.

    Nice score, BTW.

    H.F.

  3. #3
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    San Francisco
    Posts
    9,719
    Member JBL Dog is something of a Metregon expert... if he doesn't chime in perhaps you should send him a PM to get additional practical info from a Metregon fan and user.


    Widget

  4. #4
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Noblesville, Indiana
    Posts
    5
    Thanks, guys! Any idea what type of wood the back plates should be made of?

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Boulder Creek, CA
    Posts
    403
    Quote Originally Posted by paullusjoe View Post
    Thanks, guys! Any idea what type of wood the back plates should be made of?
    I would use 18 mm Baltic Birch if you can find it. Or you could use 3/4" MDF, just mind that your screw holes aren't too close to the edge. I would recommend using finishing washers as JBL did. Number 8 for the screws and washers. They will however, need to be centered to the existing rear panel mounting cleats affixed to the enclosure. You should be able to measure the spacing between the existing screws holes in the cleats for proper alignment. Also, you will need to glue and screw a pair of stiffeners per panel to the inside surfaces. If you can manage to mill, or have milled, stiffeners made of Poplar it would be advisable. 1 1/2" thick x 3" wide should do it, by an appropriate length. Your glue surface should be the 1 1/2" dimension. I wish I had my drawings scanned, I could send you the rear panel drawings for dimensions and stiffener placement.

    If any of the screw holes are stripped, find some 1/8" dowel rod, sharpen the end to a point, apply a spot of wood glue in the hole, then tap the dowel rod in the hole gently so as not to crack the cleat. Snip off the dowel rod with wire cutters, then allow the glue to cure. You can use a utility knife after the glue has set to shave the rod end flush to the cleat. I would do this after you have located the screw holes in the rear panel, then use which ever hole falls over the dowel rod and use that hole as a guide to drill a new pilot hole for the screw. That hole must be smaller in diameter to the hole in the panel. A 9/64 drill will be in order.

    You'll also need to cut holes for your networks, should you chose to used JBL networks.

    Good luck,

    H.F.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Weight of an empty L250 cabinet?
    By Doc Mark in forum Lansing Product General Information
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 10-16-2014, 11:12 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •