Building My Own L100 Cabinets?

[Swerd]

I would like to try you crossovers some day but at my level of experience at this I would probably wind up doing more damage than good.

Of all the things I learned for DIY speaker building, probably the easiest for me was assembling and soldering crossover boards. Building a cabinet with tight fitting joints is still the hardest. Everyone comes with different skills and experience.

If you're interested, I'd be glad to help. Do you need detailed instructions, or hands on help? I'm located in Maryland, about 20 miles northwest of Washington, DC.

[epoch5]

Of all the things I learned for DIY speaker building, probably the easiest for me was assembling and soldering crossover boards. Building a cabinet with tight fitting joints is still the hardest. Everyone comes with different skills and experience.

If you're interested, I'd be glad to help. Do you need detailed instructions, or hands on help? I'm located in Maryland, about 20 miles northwest of Washington, DC.

I think a good pic of the finished board would go along way. If there is one here I have missed it.

[Swerd]

I think a good pic of the finished board would go along way. If there is one here I have missed it.

I did take a picture of the board when I built it. I think it is still on my camera. I'll post that if I still have it, or work on a scale drawing. I also have a parts list. PM me if you want that.

I think I used a 10 x 7" piece of pegboard. If you remove the woofer, it easily fits in the bottom of the L-100 cabinet.

The caps and resistors can be arranged on the board any way you need.

I followed these general rules for laying out inductor coils. Scroll down to the bottom and print the diagram. I keep a copy when I am working on a crossover board.

[duaneage]

I make my own PCBs with copper boards and ferric chloride. Takes about an hour to make 2 high quality boards. I then mount the parts and paint clear lacquer to seal the copper traces, or I solder them completely.
I'm not a huge fan of terminal strips for anything other than testing.

[epoch5]

I make my own PCBs with copper boards and ferric chloride. Takes about an hour to make 2 high quality boards. I then mount the parts and paint clear lacquer to seal the copper traces, or I solder them completely.
I'm not a huge fan of terminal strips for anything other than testing.

Making my own PCBs is way beyond me at this point. maybe someday.

[epoch5]

I did take a picture of the board when I built it. I think it is still on my camera. I'll post that if I still have it, or work on a scale drawing. I also have a parts list. PM me if you want that.

I think I used a 10 x 7" piece of pegboard. If you remove the woofer, it easily fits in the bottom of the L-100 cabinet.

The caps and resistors can be arranged on the board any way you need.

I followed these general rules for laying out inductor coils. Scroll down to the bottom and print the diagram. I keep a copy when I am working on a crossover board.

Thanks for the inductor lesson. I hope you still have the pic.

[Swerd]

Here is the parts list, and a hand drawn diagram that I used as a guide to assemble my crossover boards. I labled each part with the same ID number that appears in the parts list and in the schematic that I originally posted. I hope this helps. The arrows drawn through the inductors show the orientation of the hole (in the air core inductors), and in the steel laminate core where the steel bar runs.

Yes, I do have the photo on my camera. My home email set up is poor, so I scanned the drawing. I'll work on posting the photo.

The parts list shows two lists, with less expensive bipolar electrolytic caps used for the 2 largest caps shown on top, and with the somewhat more expensive Dayton metalized polypropylene (MPP) caps shown below. Take your pick, they should sound similar. I splurged and used the MPP caps.

I removed the woofer and disconnected the wires from its terminals. On my speakers, the woofer had similar spring-loaded connectors as on the back of the cabinet. I did not remove the midrange or tweeter, but instead cut the wires connecting them to the old crossover. I left those wires attached to the speakers as long as possible. I identified the plus wires by the 1.5 volt battery method as I described in my original post. I left the old crossover in place.

All the hookup wire I used was 16 gauge. Using larger gauge makes life very difficult during assembly and IMHO is not worth the trouble. JBL used even smaller wires than 16 g.

I also used a terminal strip on the board to help with all the connections, but this is not required.

[epoch5]

Here is the parts list, and a hand drawn diagram that I used as a guide to assemble my crossover boards. I labled each part with the same ID number that appears in the parts list and in the schematic that I originally posted. I hope this helps. The arrows drawn through the inductors show the orientation of the hole (in the air core inductors), and in the steel laminate core where the steel bar runs.

Yes, I do have the photo on my camera. My home email set up is poor, so I scanned the drawing. I'll work on posting the photo.

The parts list shows two lists, with less expensive bipolar electrolytic caps used for the 2 largest caps shown on top, and with the somewhat more expensive Dayton metalized polypropylene (MPP) caps shown below. Take your pick, they should sound similar. I splurged and used the MPP caps.

I removed the woofer and disconnected the wires from its terminals. On my speakers, the woofer had similar spring-loaded connectors as on the back of the cabinet. I did not remove the midrange or tweeter, but instead cut the wires connecting them to the old crossover. I left those wires attached to the speakers as long as possible. I identified the plus wires by the 1.5 volt battery method as I described in my original post. I left the old crossover in place.

All the hookup wire I used was 16 gauge. Using larger gauge makes life very difficult during assembly and IMHO is not worth the trouble. JBL used even smaller wires than 16 g.

I also used a terminal strip on the board to help with all the connections, but this is not required.

Thanks I think my pea brain can follow your diagram.

[Lactuca]

For those members who have requested my L-100 drawings, I have attached these. All dimensions were taken from a real L-100, and are the same except the overall cabinet depth, which I made 1/2" greater than the originals.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!

[jules_gerfault]

hi folks,

I apologize in advance for my poor english....

I own since 6 years a pair of JBL 4311wx-a. the speakers are le25, le5-2, and a 2213, special one, reconed with a 21005p, designed for 123a. but the result sounds good to me, as I haven't heard any other speaker, such as original 123a or 2213.

After many tries to find the best place in my living room, I found it. but it was very uncomfortable fore anything else than listening to music. I became resonable, and came back in a compromise situation: sound quite good, and easier living.

To fight this bommy bass, I started filling (half filling only) the ports with wrapped corrugated cardboard to reduce the diameter,and so lower the tuning frequency. The result is quite nice, but doesn't extend the bass response. But I haven't measured, so it's an "impression" only. For sure, bass is tighter, more precise.I really would like to try the zilch plugs, but it's impossible to find in France, and not very simple to import them from US or Canada. but, one day... I'm patient !!!

I'm also interested in build th improved crossover, but i'm afraid it didn't fit with the 2213 for the bass. Do you have any opinions about it ?

thanks and good night (it's 11 pm for me !!)